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Top pull down motor issues


Guest ImpalaBob

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Guest ImpalaBob

My neighbor (new used TC owner) removed his hardtop and put up the soft top.

He said he got his finger under the top and YES it pulls it down hard!

He next wanted to put the soft top down.

Top release button would not work.

I unlatched soft top using mechanical trunk access.

I wanted to see if the top button would work and pushed it.

The top pull down motor started and will not turn off (also not engaging latches when pushed in) .... so I unplugged it to stop it from running.

Motor was hot to the touch.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

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Guest ImpalaBob

I read a Kentwood member post "There is a resequence procedure for the TOP switch in the 1990 Owners Manual."

Any body have that? (I also PMed Kentwood)

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Guest ImpalaBob

Disassembled today .... slowly ..... and YES the plastic gear is stripped out .... mising several teeth.

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Guest ImpalaBob

New gear GM P/N 20160587 located and ordered 2 of them. What type of gear grease is needed? I am not familiar with that light blue grease. Will Lubriplate work OK?

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Guest ImpalaBob

FWIW I am not remounting the relay in the stock location .... it binds! I am wire wrapping it down to the harness below the motor assembly.

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Guest ImpalaBob

Everything is back together with the new gear. I used Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube Grease (Used for semiautomatic handguns. I cleaned all the old grease from the bearing and re-packed with Ultima-Lube. All old grease cleaned out (making sure NO PLASTIC pieces were floating around) and greased up all the surfaces subject to wear. I used lubriplate on the latching mechanisms and cams. EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT!! Time for a beer.

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Everything is back together with the new gear. I used Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube Grease (Used for semiautomatic handguns. I cleaned all the old grease from the bearing and re-packed with Ultima-Lube. All old grease cleaned out (making sure NO PLASTIC pieces were floating around) and greased up all the surfaces subject to wear. I used lubriplate on the latching mechanisms and cams. EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT!! Time for a beer.

From the postings here I knew this thing could be trouble and the best reason I had to purchase the Red service manual for my 90, was the expectation that someday I would have to battle the top pull down mechanism.

Thanks for the pictures of the top pull down mechanism, haven't had any trouble with my top pull down, so I haven't taken it apart and I didn't know until I saw your photo's that I have fixed, bypassed or replaced hundreds of these and I have a working spare in the garage. Can't positively guarantee until pull my car apart and compare the two, can say that this looks identical to the Cadillac trunk lid pull down used for I don't remember how many years and those things are available dirt cheap at salvage yards across the country.

Thanks again for taking the time to photo and post.

Checked and parts are not identical, motor and gear drive are the same. Cadillac trunk pull down loop uses trunk latch to contact travel limit switch. TC top pull down has a contact arm riveted to the pull down loop and that would need to be moved to use the Cadillac part.

Edited by Digger914
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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest opcharl

I am also having pull down problems, I repaired a corroded connector going to the pull down motor, still no luck seems like no power, can someone tell me what wire carries the 12 volts when switch is pressed. Thanks Any other trouble shooting info would be welcome!

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From the wiring diagram in the red manual it looks like the switch voltage is on the light green wire and I suggest you check this two ways. First use a volt meter to see if you have voltage and when you find 12 volts use a light bulb tester to make sure you have a good enough connection to carry the current you need. This whole thing is an old fashion latching relay that passes voltage back and around to multiple points and any one of them could be the problem, and the cause could be inside the motor. The manual wiring diagram doesn't show all contacts and it's a lot like troubleshooting an old pinball machine. I can tell you that the easiest way to find the cause of your problem is to isolate this from vehicle power, and use a separate 12v power source to test for motor action, and then go for relay and limit switch action, when you know all that works, work your way back to the switch. Before you do anything, check your fuses.

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From the wiring diagram in the red manual it looks like the switch voltage is on the light green wire and I suggest you check this two ways. First use a volt meter to see if you have voltage and when you find 12 volts use a light bulb tester to make sure you have a good enough connection to carry the current you need. This whole thing is an old fashion latching relay that passes voltage back and around to multiple points and any one of them could be the problem, and the cause could be inside the motor. The manual wiring diagram doesn't show all contacts and it's a lot like troubleshooting an old pinball machine. I can tell you that the easiest way to find the cause of your problem is to isolate this from vehicle power, and use a separate 12v power source to test for motor action, and then go for relay and limit switch action, when you know all that works, work your way back to the switch. Before you do anything, check your fuses.

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