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Steering Rack - 1988


padgett

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It appears I have a considerable leak in the p/s rack on the driver's side & a few questions.

1) Source for replacement: are new or quality rebuilt steering racks for an 88 available?

2) Any tricks to the R&R ? it does not appear too bad except disconnecting the "intermediate" shaft - I assume this is the verical shaft to the steering column.

3) Do you reach the pressure lines from the top.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Sure it's not the pressure switch? That's the common leak on these in that spot.

Not much is accessible from the top as so much is in the way. For the switch, I go in blind by feel from underneath. Mirror helps in getting the lay of the land.

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Padgett, I recently resealed my R&P on '98 Olds 88, seal kit was $25 at O'Reilly or AutoZone, comes with everything you need to reseal unit. Had to drop rear of subframe about 3" to get it out. Be forewarned, a reseal is pretty straight forward but 2 of the seals are almost impossible to get out without special tools. The input seal on top is easy with unit out on the floor but I would buy special seal removal tools if I had to do it again. If you tackle a reseal, Set steering at center and mark location of input shaft to housing and input flange. Don't disassemble until you have measure and marked reference points for tie rods and main rack protrusion from each side. Matchmark tie rod and threads with paint pen and count how many turns to remove each one. That way when you get it back together the steering will still be centered and will not need alignment. Good luck! TexasJohn

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How do you tell if it is the pressure switch please ? It seems to be leaking just sitting there.

Just fired it up ond cannot see anything obvious, four metal lines appear dry where they enter the rack and if the pressure switch is the eletrical connection above them it is dry also. When I looked into the previously filled resovoir afterware there was foam inside so air is coming from somewhere.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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Ronnie, ARE YOU KIDDING ME! A REMAN UNIT FOR $84.40 PLUS SHIPPING? I WAS QUOTED $225 AT LOCAL PARTS STORES FOR MY '98 88, THAT'S WHY I RESEALED MINE! TexasJohn
Not exactly. The price is $84.40 and shipping to your door is free.
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Guest Mc_Reatta

You might check switch function by looking at EI78 input while moving steering wheel. If leaking may not work properly.

post-55241-143141896203_thumb.jpg

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Since I see oil on the bellows on either end and on the knuckle on the bottom but the pressure switch seems dry. Since it fits all years, I just ordered a rack from Ronnies/Amazon. How much clearance is needed on the driver's side to remove ? (May need to do some shuffling & best before I start ismantling). Will then also order a seal kit and rebuild the one that comes out. Ronnie: do you list those ?

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Padgett, I just added two seal kits for the Rack & Pinion. One is ACDelco and the other is Gates which are both good brands. I haven't personally used either one but I always prefer ACDelco parts.

The boots/bellows ~$22 were already there.

The reason I didn't add the kits before is because at ~$25 for the seal kit + the cost of new boots/bellows, if you need them, you are up to about half the cost of the remanufactured unit that comes already assembled and has a 3 year warranty. But if you like to work on stuff... :)

Thanks for ordering from The Reatta Store.

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Padgett: It sounds like you are going for the rack. But if you find you do need a pressure switch, let me know as I have an extra new one. (Accidentally ordered two for my now-gone '90 Regal. Same part.)

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Since I see oil on the bellows on either end and on the knuckle on the bottom but the pressure switch seems dry. Since it fits all years, I just ordered a rack from Ronnies/Amazon. How much clearance is needed on the driver's side to remove ? (May need to do some shuffling & best before I start ismantling). Will then also order a seal kit and rebuild the one that comes out. Ronnie: do you list those ?

I will tell you from experience it is a knuckle buster. Access to the mounting bolts is very limited. Get a lot of extensions for your ratchet/socket set up. If it is the original unit get ready for loosening bolts that you swear will never come loose. It is necessary to drop the steering column to get at the knuckle. Yes some of the lines will need to be accessed from the engine bay. Took me parts of 3 days to do mine and when I was all done, I made the mistake of using the old pressure switch since my $88.00 rebuilt rack did not come with one. 2 months later the switch began leaking

profusely, which by the way is not very evident without the engine running and the wheel cranked to one side. Needed to replace the switch and it was finally dry. BTW, replace the hoses with new. Ronnie's write up is a very handy reference tool. Have fun with the steering knuckle boot. It is cumbersome.

P.S. Might be a very good idea to replace the tie rod ends while in there. Tried to remove my old ones from the original rack and failed. Try Rock Auto for those, Very cheap.

Edited by waltmail (see edit history)
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OK, how many of which ends do I need ? Also would be glad to put in a new pressure switch if someone can tell me where it goes. The one in the car appears to be above the lines and facing the passenger side. The new one just has a blind boss there.

post-31022-143141903595_thumb.jpg

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Did they ship you the Cardone 22-106? I've been searching the Internet for the last 20 minutes and all parts stores that carry it that I can find shows it should fit an '88 Buick Reatta. I thought the inner tie rod ends were already installed but I could be wrong.

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NAPA does not sell the Cardone brand but they do show a 2 port and a 3 port rack & pinion for the '88 models only. I can't explain why. Must have been a midyear change or something. Looks like I need to get out of the parts pushing business and leave it to the guys that have catalogs and know more than I do about each part.

EDIT: Since the Reatta Store opened only 3 items have been returned for refund or exchange but I'm still not happy with that. I thought I could do a better job of getting it right the first time.

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)
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The box is marked 22-106. Going to the Cardone site they list a 22-105 (three port) and a 22-106 (two port). Amazon and Cardone both show both the 22-105 and 6 as correct for Reattae. I have sent an e-mail to Cardone asking which is correct since they do not say where the third port is.

Do all Reattas have the pressure switch ?

ps does include inner tie rod ends and bellows. Are the outers sold individually or as a pair ?

pps just received a note from Cardone: we need a 22-105.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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Was looking at the illustrations pdf. The '86-'88 diagram (page 6-22) shows the p/s pressure switch as part #35. However both the '89-'90 and '91-'93 diagrams show a plug in the hole. I am also guessing that there was a midyear change during '88.

The '90 FSM has R+R instructions for the switch on page 3B-4. But a few pages later, Figure 5 also shows a plug in the port.

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I would think that all Reattas used a pressure switch because the Vehicle Diagnostics System booklet for the Riv/Reatta, dated 1988 and marked First Edition, shows on page 6 that ECM input EI78 is the Power Steering Pressure Switch. Possibly the earliest models had the switch mounted in the pressure line?

Normally the outer tie rod kit is priced for just one side. The kit will fit the right or left side.

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I would think that all Reattas used a pressure switch because the Vehicle Diagnostics System booklet for the Riv/Reatta, dated 1988 and marked First Edition, shows on page 6 that ECM input EI78 is the Power Steering Pressure Switch. Possibly the earliest models had the switch mounted in the pressure line?...

I just looked at my '90, and the switch is there - right where it should be... No idea why the later diagrams show a plug in that location.

193608-power-steering-pressure-switch.jpg

Sure is a lot easier to access the one in the Reatta than the one in the Regal...

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I just went out and looked at my '88. It has the switch located in the same place as your '90 but it's not as accessible as your appears to be. There is a large bundle of wires that crosses in between the valve cover and the firewall on my car that I don't see in your photo. It kept me from getting a photo of my switch.

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OK, how many of which ends do I need ? Also would be glad to put in a new pressure switch if someone can tell me where it goes. The one in the car appears to be above the lines and facing the passenger side. The new one just has a blind boss there.

I replaced the outer tie rod ends (1 left, 1 right). The pressure switch is the one you noted. Just wondering if the rack you purchased was a very early core, since the pressure switch is designed to cut off the A/C at low idle with the steering rack under full pressure ( as when parking the car). I believe that was a retrofit when customers reported stalling under this condition. Might want to send the replacement back with this complaint and get one with the pressure switch facility.

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I have the RMA coming from Amazon and a 22-105 ordered. According to Cardone the 105 (three port) this the correct one. Now where do I order a pressure switch or is it a common FLAPS item ?

BTW current price for a 105 is $93.22 inc shipping.

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I have the RMA coming from Amazon and a 22-105 ordered. According to Cardone the 105 (three port) this the correct one. Now where do I order a pressure switch or is it a common FLAPS item ?

BTW current price for a 105 is $93.22 inc shipping.

Padgett, I apologize for steering you wrong on the rack and pinion you purchased. I had no idea that a rack and pinion would be listed and sold for an '88 model Reatta that wouldn't accept a pressure switch.
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I would like to add that going forward I will no longer be recommending parts that will fit the Buick Reatta here on the forum. My goal with recommending parts as I have in the past was to make sure Reatta owners were getting parts that would fit their car. Obviously from this thread I have not accomplished that goal. The Reatta Store will likely close soon.

Thanks to everyone who did order parts from the Reatta Store.

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I have the RMA coming from Amazon and a 22-105 ordered. According to Cardone the 105 (three port) this the correct one. Now where do I order a pressure switch or is it a common FLAPS item ?

BTW current price for a 105 is $93.22 inc shipping.

Ronnie has one on his site for the same price that Rock Auto has an AC Delco. Ronnie's unit is just fine, but I don't know if he will be closing up shop before you order.

RockAuto Parts Catalog[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=fl9rai28qnvsb136phqkrlo353

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Sorry to hear that Ronnie.

I have in the past purchased three Racks. I have always ordered the 3 port Racks.

I had to replace one about 15 months after the initial installation. I would never install a Rack myself again. You need a lift to do a rack...

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a) This is the way we all learn, before this I did not know the difference between a two port and a three port rack. I have told both Amazon and Cardone that they need to update their cataloges.

B) I have a lift but getting a Reatta about a foot off the ground is easy. Have done many things with just a hydraulic jack. Getting up high enough for a gas tank is about the hardest.

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Guest Corvanti
Since the Reatta Store opened only 3 items have been returned for refund or exchange but I'm still not happy with that. I thought I could do a better job of getting it right the first time.
"I would like to add that going forward I will no longer be recommending parts that will fit the Buick Reatta here on the forum. My goal with recommending parts as I have in the past was to make sure Reatta owners were getting parts that would fit their car. Obviously from this thread I have not accomplished that goal. The Reatta Store will likely close soon.Thanks to everyone who did order parts from the Reatta Store."

Ronnie, this is absolutely NO REASON to close "The Reatta Store"!!! 3 items out of how many satisfied customers? me included...

just in the last 5 years, my conservative estimate in having to return many "vehicle specific" parts bought or ordered from a FLAPS is around 10 to 15%. some were defective - some just plain out "did not fit" even though their computer said it would.:mad: don't get me started on how many ebay/other sites try to sell things that supposedly "fit" and aren't even close!

please keep up the good work that you do with "TRS".:)

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Corvanti, Thank you for your support and thank you for purchasing parts from the Reatta Store. I appreciate it. Sometimes things just don't work out the way you want and for me the Reatta Store was one of them. I didn't start the Reatta Store thinking it would be a money making website and it wasn't. I started it as a service to Reatta owners so they would have a place where they could find Reatta specific parts that they could feel confident would fit correctly. My goal was for Reatta owners to get the right every time they ordered a part from the Reatta Store. Out of 548 parts ordered from the Reatta Store since it opened I've had 4 complaints from Reatta owners about getting the wrong part. Padgett has not complained really but he has a right to so I count that as number 5. He received the wrong part and I accept responsibility for that. The Reatta Store is now closed. Not because of the complaints and not because it didn't make any money. It is closed because I was unable to achieve my goal of making sure Reatta owners would get the right part every time they ordered from the Reatta Store.

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Guest Corvanti

Gee Whiz, Ronnie - if any retail establishment had your percentage - less than 1% - of returns, they would be a success! and you are just showing folks where parts are available! not to mention how many of the ones that bought parts in the "TRS" ordered the wrong part for their Reatta and wouldn't admit it!

i think i'm done :mad:...

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Wow Ronnie you are taking this out on yourself way too hard. There's no way for you to know about a running change with a rarely replaced rack. It's a learning experience that caught everyone by surprise. The only way I'd see how you would be responsible is if you kept recommending the same wrong part # over and over. Not the case here.

Reopen it!!! LOL :D

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Just a thought but maybe before adding a major part, you might ask if there are any "gotchas".

ps mine is a late (June) production 88 and has the switch (can be seen from underneath).

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Just to chime in here, I think Ronnie is trying to hold himself to an impossibly high standard. Since there are running changes (almost never properly documented) and the parts manufacturers are known to frequently have errors in their parts fitment/interchange databases, some small number of incorrect items will get by. At least that will be the case until the mix-up is discovered as it was in this case. After which, the new knowledge gleaned from the experience can be used to prevent the same mistake from happening again.

Ronnie, while I appreciate the admirable goal of never shipping and incorrect part, I think that is setting the bar too high. Especially since you are having to rely on data supplied by third parties to decide what is offered in the store, and you cannot rightfully be blamed for that. I hope you will think about re-opening the store after considering the benefit to complaint ratio is really exceptionally good, statistically speaking.

KDirk

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Mine was not a complaint, just a correction. No big just delays the repair a little (and is in the back garage anyway).

ps would suggest anyone get the three port (22-105), a plug is a lot easier than a missing hole.

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Mine was not a complaint, just a correction. No big just delays the repair a little (and is in the back garage anyway).

ps would suggest anyone get the three port (22-105), a plug is a lot easier than a missing hole.

Did you receive the 22-105 yet? I was waiting for you to get it and confirm that it will fit and work properly before adding it to The Reatta Store.

BTW, my offer still stands to reimburse any money that it might have cost you to return the rack & pinion you ordered that was incorrect. Just let me know the cost.

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)
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