1925 Buick Clutch replacement HELP!

[Buick Downunder]

Hi All

Time has come to replace the buick clutch for the 1925-25x. It went from a slight slip which had started to appear at Christmas time (under extreme load) to a complete failure last week (no longer engages at all).

I am keen to know:

1. What is the best way to remove the clutch? Is it possible to life the engine out and leave gearbox and torque tube in-situ, or is it only possible to access the clutch by supporting the body and dropping off the diff and torque tube to access the flywheel???
   
2. Has anyone recently repaired a failed 6 disc clutch arrangement recently. Is it simply a matter or relining each plate and machining the flywheel? Is there a pressure plate or does the assembly of 6 discs fulfill this role
   

All help appreciated. I am without my Buick until this is resolived!

Regards

Ben

[Leif Holmberg]

Ben.If I was you I should remove the gearbox,just press the rear axle backward after the brake rods removed and probebly some other parts as well,the engine will stay in place even without the gearbox.After removing the gearbox you can easily remove the "package"with the clutch as a hole unit from the engine,3 nuts.Inside this unit there are a strong spring in the middle about 15 x 7 cm ,when removing those 6 nuts you need to press on the plate or use a threade rod to hold it together.The hardest is to find the lining with the right measure,I had to turn the inner and outer measure on the lining to get it to fit on the plates.Be sure to check the guides as well.Pictures how it looks too, when it`s removed.

(the first picture is an older clutch with 3+3 nuts insted of the newer (4 picture)with 3+6 nuts.)

Leif in Sweden.,

Edited May 5, 2013 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history)

[dibarlaw]

Ben: The easiest way is as Leif has outlined. But it would have been more meaningfull if he included the photo of how he did his when he first brought it home in 1967! Mechanics in the great outdoors! Also praying that I don'd have to do mine any time soon.....Larry

[Leif Holmberg]

Here are the photo from how I worked with my 1925-25 in 1967 when I brougt it home,the only thing I did at just that time was to bend the lining and plates from each other,just becuse they had fastend togeter.But between 1968-1970 I restored the car,the guide lines on the clutch was fixed as well, after 15000 miles the guide lines can be in bad "shape" there was to much play between the plates guides and the 3 "bolt"guides.After that I have never had any problem with my cluth other than some lining "noise" when start and drive.Pictures when I looked at the car first time, and then when my friend Rolf and I towed it a long way, then on a truck home in 1967 ,and I still have the Buick left.

Leif in Sweden

Edited May 6, 2013 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history)

[ROD W]

Ben

The simplest way is to move the rear axle and torque tube backwards as Leif said. There are 4 bolts holding each spring onto the axle and remove the pins for the brake linkages. 4 bolts hold the torque tube to the gear box (or torque ball, universal) The whole rear axle should then roll back (support the front of the torque tube) With the car jacked up there should be enough room before the wheels hit the rear guards.

The disk linnings may be OK. When I did mine, i found the wear on the sides of the 3 flat sided bolt that attach to the fly wheel ( these can be seen in Leifs photo ) were worn stopping the discs sliding properly. I ground the ridges off these Which solved the problem

Rod

[Leif Holmberg]

One more picture how it looks when the gearbox is removed.(rear end of a Volvo gearbox in front)

Leif in Sweden.

[Guest morerevsm3]

my spare '27 clutch parts, should look the same though

[Leif Holmberg]

From 1926 (as in the last picture from"morerevsm3")the clutchs are a little bit different than 1925.1925 and earlier dosen`t have those "splines"as 1926 and later years have.The lining has a different parts number between those years too.

Leif in Sweden

[Buick Downunder]

Thank you everybody. This is a great help. i believe that my issue may be similar to Rods, as it was working one minute and not engaging the next, however obviously needing removal and inspection. Now, where's that spare day!?

Leif, your supply of pictures is always appreciated!

Regards

Ben

[Guest outlaw car man]

One more picture how it looks when the gearbox is removed.(rear end of a Volvo gearbox in front)

Leif in Sweden.

Great pictures- Here's Buick & Volvo Sandy

[Leif Holmberg]

When those 1800 ES model came out I remember I thought they vere ugly comparing with the E model,but I have changed my mine I love them today,and your Volvo looks really nice,as well as your Buick of cource.

Leif in Sweden.

[Guest Leslie Girvan]

I have just replaced the crownwheel and pinion on my 27 Tourer and am happy with that job. My problem now is the clutch. It is very juddery, i have to let the clutch out very gently at low revs to avoid jerking. I get the feeling that some of the disks are warped. Is this possible or is it just linings i need? Are linings available and where would i look for them?

Thanks,

Leslie

[unimogjohn]

Leslie, I have always used Fort Wayne Clutch. Here is their web site. Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline NEW & REBUILT / REMANUFACTURED CAR and HEAVY DUTY TRUCK CLUTCHES - CUSTOM DRIVESHAFTS