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27 studebaker build


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not yet ,the motor is stuck, but my friend and I are going to try to get it free. The engine is complete and nothing is missing. I was going to get more pics today but I forgot my camera.. It does roll and the trans is not frozen!

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Today I pulled the motor out, removed trans,clutch housing ,pressure plate and flywheel. Found a large mouse nest in clutch housing ,It was so big I think Mickey was living there. Next I will be removing the front cover ! I was surprised to find the trans turns in all gears. That's good news,Ithink!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Good news, tried to remove rear wheels. I thought I would not be able to get them off and was ready to buy a puller. A little wiggling and I was able to get the off without much of a problem. sometimes you get lucky!! axle and key looks good. I think the trip home from Kansas broke them free!!

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I'm going to Ct. for two weeks,will post more pics when I return. The frame. is now in black rust encapsulator ! When I get back its time to take the wood wheels apart to send to be rebuilt Should be fun,maybe.

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boojoe,

Great project! You have more guts than I do.

I thought about using Metal Rescue to dissolve the rust that is causing the pistons/rings to be stuck.

I have used it successfully on other projects and am currently using it to remove rust on the metal parts of wood spoke wheels without damaging the wood. I don't know if anyone has actually tried it yet with a frozen engine. It might be worth an email to the company to inquire.

Dwight

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  • 4 weeks later...

O K play time is over, I need to get some work on this stude done before I have to leave for Bonneville in aug. I'm going to call Stutzmans this week to ask a ? about the wheels. Hopfully he can do the Studebaker wheels. I think I will have to take them apart and sandblast them before I send them to him. Don't know!

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  • 1 month later...

O K troops, time for me to get back to work!! Had a great time at Bonneville ,Lots of wild stuff. Before I left I managed to get the two front wheels apart. This week I'm hopeing to get the back ones apart , then sandblasting and paint. The 46 motor and trans I was going to use temp is a bit of a problem. The trans hits the crossmember, (4-speed truck). I'm looking for a three speed that is smaller. I don't want to cut the frame as I plan to put the original engine and trans back in latter on.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Are you sure this car is a 1927? The distinctive feature of the Studebakers for 1927 was that they had unique disc wheels which were needed for the style of four wheel brakes fitted to all car that year. As far as I know 1926 was the last year that two wheel brakes were available and those cars had wood wheels. Have you got the chassis and engine numbers? The chassis number can be found on an aluminium plate behind the left front wheel. The engine number will be just above the water side plate on the right side of the engine. There should also be casting dates on the block and head.

From 1928 the front brakes were redesigned and they were able to fit wood, wire of disc wheels to all models.

Looking at your recent pics again I see that the chassis plate is there. The last number for 1926 cars is 1346000. Any number higher than that is a 1927 car. The engien number will start with a letter code. If it is ER it is 1926, EU is 1927.

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I was told when I got it it was a 27. I have the I d plate on the frame the number starts with 12. The car is not at my house so I don't have the whole number today. It could be a 26 ,it really doesn't matter to me. I will get the numbers tomorrow when I go to my shop. Could it be a 25 or 26? It has no front brakes at all.

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Wheels are apart ,sandblasted, and halfway painted, (primed) will finish painting next week ! Then starts fitting the motor. I got a second motor from Kansas this one has a three speed out of a car, hopefuthis won't hit the crossmember. I think maybe a week and a half.

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Good news - maybe. I think your car is older than we first thought. According to the numbers quoted in The Standard Catalog of American Cars the first serial number for the ER series is 1202001 and the first number for the 1926 series is 1284001 so yours is about halfway through the 1925 run. The ER series was basically the same through 1925 and 1926 but to quote The Standard Catalog - "there were numerous running production changes that restorers of today find confusing". The casting dates on the block and head should have a D as the first letter - maybe in the order D - 20 - 3 for March 20 1925 for example. I could stand corrected on this. Maybe an ER owner could confirm it. I am only going by the engines I have which have G and H on them for 1928 and 1929. Note the 1930 series 53 engine in this thread - http://forums.aaca.org/f126/1929-studebaker-dictator-drivetrain-353587.html - has a J code on it.

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The wheels were sent to Stutzmans on Friday. I started to mount the temp engine,had to build my own mounts! I'm now using a three speed trans. As soon as I find a two bolt Studebaker starter I will try to get the motor fired. I'm making sure I check radiator clearance,I don't want to screw up as I've done in the past. Monday I will complete the front mount then we'll see what happens.

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