248 wont turn again

[Guest countrywill]

ok got the motor to by it self with the starter only. now its a matter of getting this anchor to start which it will not, ive killed the baterry once and working on the second time now. everything apears to be good. with my luck its most likly somthing realy stupid

thanks again for all the help guys

[smithbrother]

Think POSITIVE, YOU will WIN the BATTLE, I promise.

Dale in Indy

[Guest countrywill]

im trying to but time is running out for me on this. heres the new issue. engine turns, it acts like it wants to fire but it wont. it will spit out of the carb. i checked the timing mark on the fly wheel to tdc #1 piston. its right were it needs to be. ive adjusted the points afew times thinking it might be to big of a gap, i finaly found the right setting in the book. double checked all the plug wires against pics i had and those are good.im complete out of ideas. do i need to move the distributer a tooth over?

[old-tank]

Sounds like the distributor is installed 180* off.

[Roadmaster75]

Sounds like your timing is off. Backfiring through the carb is the clue.

First, make sure of your firing order and distributor rotation direction &

how the cylinders are numbered.

IF that's all good ........

Watch the valves opening and closing on number one when you are turning it over.

Your engine will be at TDC twice within the 4 stroke cycle:

- once for the compression stroke (this is where you set your distributor to fire!)

- OR, it will be at TDC to push out the exhaust gases (NOT where you want to set

your distributor to fire)

If you are truly at TDC & ready to fire,

Both valves should be seated & and the rotor in your distributor should be

pointing at plug wire number one.

If you are at TDC and the exhaust valve is open, your distributor is

trying to fire 180 degrees off! (That's why air and fuel are coughing back at you through the carb)

This means, rotate the motor to TDC so both valves are seated on cylinder ONE.

Then pull out the distributor and re-set it so NOW it's trying to fire cylinder ONE.

BTW, Country Will, PLEASE advise the group what was preventing that motor from turning....!

A lot of good advice was dispensed here and we all learn much from the final resolution....ok?

[trp3141592]

Hi,

I have been where you are with a jammed engine, but not with my car, and not with a Buick. A friend with a '40 Dodge encountered the same problem--new engine would not turn over. I was there to help him finish the installation and start his newly-installed rebuilt engine. Well, as in your case, it would not turn. In fact, the starter got jammed as it was engaged and started to overheat.

We looked at everything on the engine that we could think of. The engine turned OK by hand before it was installed, so the question became, "What changed?" Then an earlier pre-beers offhand remark of, "I even put new bolts in the clutch cover plate," came to mind. That was it--he had indeed installed new bolts in the cover plate--and they were too long. Thay drew up tight against the clutch and jammed it so badly that there was no way to run the crank.

We took out those bolts, hit the starter, and it started right up! Many beers were then sacrificed in celebration.

Now that your engine is turning, I would still look at what may be in contact with your flywheel, clutch/torque converter, etc.

Lesson learned: are any of your cover plate, housing, etc, bolts too long? The remedy is quick and cheap: remove them and replace them with the right length bolts.

This is my 2 cents, and worth every penny.

--Tom

Edited June 24, 2013 by trp3141592 (see edit history)

[smithbrother]

So, what's the latest???????

Dale in Indy