Guest 1988 Reatta Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 As you guessed I have a 1988 Reatta that I was out driving with my son and all of a sudden it started to sputter shake and backfire like crazy, eventually stalling out. After numerous tries I was able to limp the car home and let it sit for a while. When I got in it again (6 days later) it started and ran like a champ. You got it it did the same thing again. I brought it to the mechanic and he replaced the crank sensor, ignition sensor and now it turns over but absolutely will not start. All engine wires are good as are the plugs. Checked the fuel pressure valve on the rail and no pressure so I guess the next thing is the fuel pump. Am I heading in the right direction? Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 sounds like something in the fuel pump system, please check this link:): Fuel Pressure Testing - Reatta Owners Journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 If it will not start (did you try cranking for 15-20 seconds so oil pressure comes up?) then pumps are common. I use only ACDelco & am sure can get through Ronnies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 '88If you end up changing the fuel pump and it takes off running, is the mechanic going to reimburse you for the parts (and labor) replaced during his shot-gun approach to the problem?John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Before pulling the gas tank, put 12V on the fuel pump priming wire (located near the master cyl) You could have a good fuel pump but the ECM is not sending power to the pump because of another sensed problem.You can also check the fuel pump relay. The ECM gives pin #5 of the fuel pump relay 12V to pick the coil. If you do not have the 12V present then the ECM is not sending the signal for some reason. Edited April 26, 2013 by Barney Eaton (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 This weekend was insane, though I wanted to dedicate time to the Reatta the Trofeo decided it wanted attention as the VIC went out as did the entire cluster. I replaced the #5 fuse and it blew again so I removed the VIC and now have the cluster operational and thus am now going to have to search for a rebuild for the VIC or a replacement, just great. I went to work on the Reatta with the mechanic (he actually lets me work with him as I am pretty good on electrical) and we tested the valve again and gas just about dribbles out and there is little to no pressure. Having seen Barney's post I will try that fix prior to taking the tank out and I will let you guys know how we make out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Barney thank you I will do that today on the way home as the car sadly is still at the mechanic's garage in the bay looking very sad and lonely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Is a bit more complex than that: 1) the pump only runs through the relay for two seconds when the key is firsst turned on then shuts off. That should be enough to get at least 20 psi2) when oil pressure exceeds about 4 psi the fuel pump is turned on through the oil pressure switch. This does not go through the realy.3) On my 88 the prime lead is just outboard of the a/c filter/dryer. It is a loose lead with a green flat connector. It should show 12v when the engine is running and when 12v is applied it will put power on the FP circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 OK I really need help now. I have replaced the crank and cam sensors, the module, the fuel pump, and the computer all with no results. The car still just cranks but will not start.:mad: I have no idea where to go next, I really love this car and I am planning a road trip at the end of the month that I want to take this on so any help is really greatly appreciated.Thanks to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Need to figure out if it's a fuel problem, spark problem or compression issue.Pour a little gas into the intake through a vacuum port and crank to see if it runs a bit.Get a spark tester or pull a plug wire and place near an bare spot on the engine and crank and check for good spark.Borrow a compression tester from a FLAPS (AutoZone loans them) and check compression on all cylinders.Once you know where the problem lies, it will be easier and cheaper to find and fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Mc_Reatta is correct. When an engine won't start it is best to start with basic troubleshooting techniques. For and engine to run it needs three things. Correct fuel/air mixture, ignition spark and compression... all delivered at the right time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Well let's see. We tried pouring gas in and no luck, the spark is extremely weak and compression is good so I am at a complete loss. The car was running fine and just completely cut off never to start again, it turns over fine just will not start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I don't know why you would be at a complete loss. You just identified the problem. "the spark is extremely weak". The cure is repairing the ignition system by replacing the Ignition Control Module, crankshaft positions sensor, coil pack or spark plug wires. If the spark is weak on all plugs I would start with the ignition control module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I don't know why you would be at a complete loss. You just identified the problem. "the spark is extremely weak". The cure is repairing the ignition system by replacing the Ignition Control Module, crankshaft positions sensor, coil pack or spark plug wires. If the spark is weak on all plugs I would start with the ignition control module.I did replace the crank sensor and the ignition control module already and you guessed it, no luck. I don't know if it could be the wires as the car was running and then suddenly cut off and has not restarted since. That leaves the the coil I guess, so I will do that post haste and let you know how I make out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Either the crank sensor, ICM and coils, or ECM assuming plugs and wires are new.Crank sensor is least expensive part but hardest to replace as harmonic balancer needs to be removed.Should have done a Padgett Delco upgrade by now. If you get some used from a junk yard, not too expensive and not hard to install.ECM probably not the problem, but can be pricey and a little inconvenient to get at to replace. Something you have replaced still isn't working correctly. You can try Ronnie's test procedures and see what they reveal:ICM & Crank Position Sensor Troubleshooting - Reatta Owners JournalIgnition System Troubleshooting - Reatta Owners Journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I would check carefully to make sure the shutter ring on the harmonic balancer didn't hit the new crankshaft position sensor and damage it. Have you checked that? Also check the ICM plug carefully to make sure it is seated properly with no bent pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 In the docs section on Reatta.net there is a pdf toward the bottom on "Cranks but does not start". It contains a decision tree to find the problem. Since pouring gas into the manifold did nada, the problem is either ignition or mechanical (unlikely but can check compression on #5). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 This thread is really getting confusing. If as you say in your first post that you had no pressure at the injector rail, have you fixed that problem and is pressure on spec? Secondly, "the spark is extremely weak", what are you referring to as the ign control module? The coil pack has 3 seperate coils and are mounted to the controller as an assembly, have you replaced complete assembly with a known good one? Thirdly, I haven't heard one mention of trouble codes or scanner diagnostics. Why is that? Alot of suggestions given but few answers received, we are trying to help. DO YOU HAVE FUEL PRESSURE NOW? I have personally had coil pack failures on my '88. PULL SOME CODES AND PUT A SCANNER ON IT, THAT MAY TELL YOU IF YOU HAVE IGNITION COMPONENT FAILURE. TexasJohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 It's been a week and no update, how can we learn anything? TexasJohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1988 Reatta Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 It's been a week and no update, how can we learn anything? TexasJohnFirst let me begin by appologizing as I have not been able to dedicate much time to the computer or, sadly, my Reatta, however I have found, and more importantly corrected the problem. It appears that the ignition module was the culprit all along. I replaced the original module when I was trying to figure out what was originally going on but it turned out to be a bad module out of the box, soooooo after beating my head against the wall for a while and getting out an OLD oscilloscope I was able to determine that I had a very weak spark and that, yes I had installed the dang thing backwards so that the car was attempting to start with secondary spark which should be just as strong as the primary but just not enough to do the trick. Even after installing it correctly it still had weak spark so I ordered a new one and bingo it started and runs like new. Thanks to everyone for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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