Advice on Dodge D-5 Carburetor- does this look correct?

[fozz71]

Hi Guys, I am desperate to snag a working D-5 or EXV-2 style carb for my car- so I snagged this carb off of Ebay and something doesn't look right to me. On the lower black base- can someone take a look at the lever arrangement and let me know if something is incorrect? I have a flimsy piece of wire holding the choke rod onto the pivot at the base....just can't determine what's off. Help if you can- Thanks in advance, Jim

[jpage]

The lower lever pin should have a groove in it ( looks like that wire is in it) . There should be a small thin washer that goes on after the lever and is held in place with a small hairpin cotter pin. You could ,if you can't find a small enough hairpin, drill a small hole in the shaft and insert a small regular cotter pin, but you still need the thin washer. The choke rod looks a little too thick, it should be about 5/32 in. dia.

[fozz71]

Hey thanks for the help and taking the time to write- much appreciated. The rod may look fatter in the pic because of the flash but it is fairly thin. What exactly does the rod do on the bottom connection- to my untrained eye it pulls a lever up and down- but just what does that lever do? It doesn't seem to affect the throttle plate butterfly (other larger black lever).Thanks- Jim

[jpage]

That little rod operates the accelerator pump ( known as the vacuum economy piston), which supplies extra fuel upon acceleration. There are three holes on the lever for adjustment to give more or less fuel depending on climate conditions. The maintenance manual states that for extremely warm weather or high altitude the rod should go in the hole closest to throttle shaft. For normal driving , the rod should be in the center position and for cold climates the rod goes in the farthest hole. The piston is topped by a leather cap which, when dry for a long period, will get stiff and shrink. It might be a good idea to take it out and wet it with some thin oil until it softens and expands. I assume that you're using the original choke. To adjust the choke,loosen the choke lever lock screw. On the oustide where the shaft comes through the body ,you will see a small hole in the shaft along with a vertical groove in the body around the shaft. Take a small drill bit or piece of thin wire and align the hole with the slot inserting the drill or wire to hold it in position. Next lift up on the choke rod until the choke valve is completely closed then tighten the lock screw and remove the bit or wire. Incidently, it seems that all of the EXV-2 carbs are the same regardless if they are marked D-5, D-8 etc.. It must of just been for ID purposes at the factory.

Edited April 17, 2013 by jpage (see edit history)

[fozz71]

Okay, so if I have it correctly, the vertical choke rod controls both the choke plate on top and accelerator pump at the same time. The throttle connection should operate the throttle butterfly and fuel delivery- is that correct?

Thanks again,

Jim

[jpage]

The choke rod only controls the choke valve. The throttle shaft controls fuel and the accelerator pump. When you advance the throttle it should also advance the pump as the pump lever is connected to the throttle shaft. There is a pin on the throttle shaft lever that limits the amount of throttle when the choke is closed.

[fozz71]

Okay, gotcha. So it sounds as if my D-5 carb may actually be in order needing only minor adjustments. Thank you for your time and attention to my question- it is very appreciated. I do need to check that flapper on the piston for the accelerator pump.

Do you happen to know the starting point for the needle valve? I had plans to reset it by turning it all the way in lightly and backing it out 1 and 1/2 turns.

Thanks very, very much!

[jpage]

That's probably a good starting point,you'll just have to fool with it after it starts and warms up. Make sure that your heat riser is operating correctly because it will affect the choke pulloff and performance.

[fozz71]

Oh jeeze, now another can of worms- my riser (which I am fairly sure is attached to a heat sensitive coil spring below the carb) is all gummed solid. Althought it does turn by finger, it is so nasty that the natural mechanical movement is inoperable.

In your experience, should I take it all off the manifold and clean every inch of it? Or replace that spring?

Thanks for your expertise!

Jim

[fozz71]

Can jpage or anyone else answer my question inside this image? Thanks!! Jim

Edited April 17, 2013 by fozz71
added pic (see edit history)

[jpage]

The lever at the bottom acts as a limiter for the throttle when the choke is closed. There's a small pin that protrudes from the throttle shaft behind the throttle lever. When the choke is engaged it pulls the lower lever up. You'll notice ,if you lift up on the choke rod, that the taper on the top of the lower lever limits the travel of the throttle . I would remove the manifold and carefully take it apart where the upper and lower halves meet ( that's if you can get the bolts out). Then you'll have access to the riser valve. If it moves at all you're in luck. I freed mine by lightly sandblasting the inside and working it with WD-40. It must move freely to work. The spring you speak of is not really a spring but a heat sensitive device. While it does exert a small amount of tension it is designed to release it's tension as it heats up thus opening the valve for full flow. It the valve is stuck in the closed position ,it will hinder exhaust flow ,choke the engine and overheat , if it's stuck open the manifold takes a long time to heat up causing the engine to run rough when cold. This spring is available new from the Mopar suppliers and it should be replaced. There is also a specific way to install it that is listed in the maint. manual. I have seen some heat risers(particularly Plymouth) that have a metal shield around the spring. I think most Dodges use a brass drain fitting that holds an asbestos bumper that limits the travel of the riser. This drain enables excess gas to drain from the carb and manifold in case of flooding and fuel expansion. Make sure it's there too.There is a steel cored asbestos gasket between the two halves which will need replaced and is available new from the Mopar suppliers. There is a similar type gasket under the choke assy. which insulates it from the manifold heat that has to be made from sheet material available at a GOOD auto store. Do you have a two piece oil bath air cleaner or the sealed can type?

Edited April 18, 2013 by jpage (see edit history)

[fozz71]

Thanks for the detailed explanation- that is exactly what I was needing, many thanks! I have a black, space-ship looking air cleaner with a wire-mesh screen held together with a thumb screw on top of the cleaner. I haven't tried to pull it apart so I am not sure it is separable.

[jpage]

If it has a thumbscrew it will come apart for cleaning and oiling

[fozz71]

Sounds right and being so tall- I kinda half expected that mesh to be able to be changed and/or cleaned. Thanks again for the advice!