Where is the serial number on a 1930 Model A?

[Guest 37Packard]

I'm considering trading my Packard for a completely restored 1930 Model A Coupe with a rumble seat but the Model A owner is in a different state and doesn't know where to find the serial number (VIN). Can someone please tell me where it is located if in fact there is one? Thanks....

[motoringicons]

On the engine block, driver's side, just above the water inlet and just below the head gasket. Should begin with an A________.

The other place it is stamped is on the frame, underneath the cowl, however, this requires lifting the body and splash apron.

[MCHinson]

The engine number was the original serial number for a Model A Ford. Often the engine has been changed, sometimes this can lead to title problems. The engine number was originally also stamped on the top of the left frame rail, but you have to remove the body from the frame to see that number (if it is still there and visible). If the engine number (on the driver's side of the engine, near the top of the block) is the same number as on the title, you should have no problem in any state. If the engine number does not match a serial number on a title, it will be potentially difficult to title the car in some states.

[Guest 37Packard]

Thanks for the info. He found it on the engine and it matches the number on the registration. (He says NY state doesn't have titles for cars older than 1972.) If the woman at the vehicle registration office doesn't want a number on the engine and says it must be on the frame I already have that potential problem worked out. I'm going to write it on a piece of duct tape and tape it on the frame under the driver's side of the car. I'll lie on the ground and say here it is, do you want to see it or do you want me to read it off to you? She won't want to get dirty by lying on the ground so she'll just tell me to read it off to her. (I've done this before-don't forget this is Kentucky.) She will also want the odometer reading even though the car is 83 years old. Many states don't ask for it if the car is over 10 years old, but Kentucky always asks for it. The good news is Kentucky values all old cars that get antique plates at $100 (even if it's a mint 1970 Hemi Cuda or '59 Cadillac convertible) so the taxes are 6% which is $6. Thanks again for the info....

[Hudsy Wudsy]

That sounds like a comprehensive, well thought-out plan. I hope your comprehensive, well thought-out plans work better than my comprehensive, well thought-out plans. My comprehensive, well thought-out plans always end in disaster.

[Dave Mellor NJ]

You'll get to the comprehensive part when you get the insurance.

Edited April 6, 2013 by Dave Mellor NJ (see edit history)

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Another thought is to reach out to local Model A owners, ideally check with a local MARC or MAFCA region and simply ask how KY handles these cars. I would likely avoid buying an out of state Model A here in CT as some members have reported "sticklers" at our DMV demanding to see the frame # - even though as has been pointed out these were initially registered by engine number. CT changed it's inspection/registration laws a few years back and a previously registered CT car of any age does not need a VIN verification, but out of state does regardless of age. I had an "A" that was a local car, so no hassles, it was, as it had been I am sure for its entire life, registered under the engine number.

You may want to do a little more research, I am sure, with a little legwork you will be ok, as these are common enough cars that someone at your DMV likely knows how to handle, your idea is ok, assuming you show up and get the woman you think you are getting and not a curious young trainee, etc.

Good luck with the trade, I think you will be doing fine - the coupe looks nice and Model As are a LOT of fun for the $$$...

[Dave Henderson]

If by chance you will be entering your car in high point Model A judging , it is important that the engine number be within the known range of them for the model year. The beginning and ending numbers for 1930 were 2742696-4237500. ("A" is prefixed to the number) Judges give consideration to the fact that engines were produced about 2 months before the assembled car came off the line.

[Pete O]

And there should be a five-point star stamped before and after the A####### serial number on the block. This was meant to discourage tampering with the number.

P.S., that coupe doesn't happen to be located on Long Island, does it? If so, I might recognize that car!

Edited April 5, 2013 by Pete O (see edit history)

[Bleach]

I hope you're not making an even trade for the A. I've seen photos of your Packard and it looks like a very nice car. Personally as much fun an A can be, the Packard is a way better car. The A is a tractor compared to your Packard.

[Guest 37Packard]

it is important that the engine number be within the known range of them for the model year. The beginning and ending numbers for 1930 were 2742696-4237500. ("A" is prefixed to the number)

I won't be having it judged but I did check on the engine number and it was built in September 1930. The number is *A3903548*.

All I heard from guys in the Packard Club was that it's not worth as much since it's not painted the original shade of green and it has a (very nice) black leather interior instead of cloth. I've had it advertised in several publications and web sites for the last 3 months and haven't heard from too many people so when this guy in Buffalo offered to trade his Model A for it I said let's do it. He's leaving at 4 AM tomorrow and should be here with the car in the early afternoon (480 miles each way). I told him at 6 PM I have a date with my TV to watch Louisville defeat Wichita State in the NCAA basketball tournament Final Four so if the transaction wasn't completed by then he would have to wait until about 8:30 when the game is over. I also did some research on the value of a restored 1930 Model A Coupe with a rumble seat and it looks like it's worth $15-20K. Does anyone know if 50 mph is the top cruising speed? That's what he told me it was. Also, tomorrow is the one year anniversary of my father passing away. Thanks to all who responded for their insight and comments....

[Paul Dobbin]

Yes a good Model A Ford will do 50 MPH but is more comfortable at 45. If it won't do 45 all day, it's not a good Model A in my biased "drive em or sell em opinion." Model A's are the favorite car on Glidden Tours and the Greatrace if rated by the number of participants. Yes they ride a little rough compared to your Packard, but they ride and ride & ride, and you can buy about any part for it at an 800 #.

[MCHinson]

Any car is worth what a willing buyer is willing to pay for it. The authenticity issues with the color and the interior of the Packard likely prevented a lot of potential buyers from being interested in that car. Like most antique cars, there is a lot of variety in the value of a Model A Ford. The small details greatly change the value. From the one photo it is difficult to make any reasonable guess of the value. The Model A Ford originally was designed to drive 60 miles per hour. Correctly restored they can still be driven that speed. Folks who have not correctly restored Model A's often think that they can only be driven 45 or 50 miles per hour. Some people just assume that they need to be driven slower speeds because they don't know much about them. I don't know what that car is worth although I sold a nice amateur restored 1930 Model A Coupe a few years ago for much less than that amount. If you and the Model A's current owner are both happy with the trade, that makes it a great deal.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Good luck on your transaction, '37Packard. Since others have wieghed in I guess I will give you my two cents having owned both an "A" (30 Tudor) and a '39 Packard120. I thiink, based on what I have seen of your Packard, and the one shot of the "A" you may be doing ok here. The non-original color, interior and some minor but still present condition issues like the rust in trunk could have scared off some buyers, even with a nice and somewhat unusual bodystyle. You might have been better off with a "true" coupe, than the two door in terms of resale - I have not seen these bring a premium over their more common 4 door sister cars (like I had) but a "true" coupe will. Just the market, which you have tested now so you probably know that. IMO, the "A" appears to be well done and '30 - '31 coupes are always pretty popular. You really cannot compare the driveability of these cars - apples and oranges. I really like the vintage feel of the Model "A", and they are a little more agile and easy to manouver around a crowded driveway than you may think. I had no trouble with 50 mph on mine, for sustained cruising. Others may say they are good highway cars, but I think given their limitations and todays generally faster highway speeds, I would stick to back roads and secondary highway type drives - it will be much less stressful. Very simple and easy to maintain. YOu will be an expert in a couple of mos.

Good luck and keep us posted on the deal!

[Bleach]

If you decide on the A, you'll need to get familiar with how to start and drive one: Starting and Driving

[Guest 37Packard]

If you decide on the A, you'll need to get familiar with how to start and drive one: Starting and Driving

Thanks for the link. I'd like to find someone in the Louisville area who owns a Model A or is familiar with them to look the car over, which by the way arrived a little after noon today. After the other guy left with the Packard I took the A for a 13 mile drive which included 5 miles on the interstate cruising between 50 and 55 mph. The car ran fine and is fun to drive. When I got home two of my neighbors came over and looked it over and they both were very impressed with it as far as the paint job, the interior, the way the engine ran, and the cleanliness and lack of rust on the frame. Does anyone have a roster of the Model A Club of America who could give me some names and email addresses of people around here? I found out that the Model A Restorers Club is having their annual convention in June in Lexington, KY which is about 90 miles from here. Here's some pics of the car. Thanks again for your interest and comments....

[Bleach]

I see it has an alternator which is a common thing many A owners upgrade to. It looks very nice as black always makes a car standout.

Are there any other upgrades such as hydraulic brakes?

I was looking for a Fordor last year before I bought my Fairlane but didn't find one to my liking nor price.

Can't wait to read more about your car.

[Guest 37Packard]

I see it has an alternator which is a common thing many A owners upgrade to. It looks very nice as black always makes a car standout.

Are there any other upgrades such as hydraulic brakes?

Thanks. The alternator is the only thing that's not original as far as I know. The guy I got it from said the seat could be moved back several inches. Does anyone know if that's true? Also, I would like to get a shop manual or at least an owner's manual for it. Is Ebay the best place to look?

[Guest 37Packard]

One more question. Can I spray paint the front of the radiator to cover the water stains or is there a better way to do it?

[Dave Mellor NJ]

I see you have a dropped headlight bar. That's fine if you like it but I would look for the proper one.You're ahead of the game with that interior. I think it would be all right to just spray bomb the rad but try to scrub the rust off first,

[Steve_Mack_CT]

37 Pack, if you do spray bomb the rad I would use radiator paint (you can get it at auto parts store) which is I believe a bit "thinner" to not impact the cooling abilities, and put some cardboard behind the radiator if you do it on the car. A very easy way to clean up the front of the car, but if you don't mask it you will get overspray all over the engine area. Car looks to be driven.

Are you remembering to shut off the gas valve for the night? A full tank and the valve left on can leave you a nice puddle of gas in the morning... Of course, you also need to remember to open it when you start the car...

[Guest 37Packard]

37 Pack, if you do spray bomb the rad I would use radiator paint (you can get it at auto parts store) which is I believe a bit "thinner" to not impact the cooling abilities, and put some cardboard behind the radiator if you do it on the car. A very easy way to clean up the front of the car, but if you don't mask it you will get overspray all over the engine area. Car looks to be driven.

Are you remembering to shut off the gas valve for the night? A full tank and the valve left on can leave you a nice puddle of gas in the morning... Of course, you also need to remember to open it when you start the car...

Yes, I'm remembering to shut off the gas valve. I'll paint the radiator after I get it registered. Thanks....