Taylormade

The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

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Taylormade,

Outstanding!

Were there rubber or steel pads between the top of the frame and the body, specifically where the body bolts passed through? If so how thick were they?

I am wondering if anyone does a "vulcanizing service" to these "floating power" engine and transmission mounts, my 33 PD Plymouth has similar ones in similar condition.

Will you be disassembling the clutch assembly or do you feel that this just needs a good cleaning and inspection?

Thanks for sharing these pictures. Chris

Don't recall rubber pads between the body and frame on my '33 PD but there was a canvas type webbing.

Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then & Now Automotive) has, or at least had, a revulcanizing service for floating power engine mounts.

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Making good progress. I remember grinding back my front guards and I was swallowing grit for a month. Now seeing yours it brings back memories !

Heres a pic to spur you along.............

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Ian - that fender looks great! Can't wait until mine look like that.

Chris - along the top of the frame, for the fenders and the body, there is a canvas webbing. It was also on the side of the frame between the frame and the "channeled" body. This is on a back crossmember.

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The stuff on the top of the frame rails seemed more like a felt padding, not webbed. It was thicker than the webbing.

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On the back section of the frame over the gas tank were thin hard rubber pads with the cover over the pads. There was also a double rubber pad up front on the cowl flange that attached the body to the frame through the fender.

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You can see them in this pix. The one closest to the camera came off with the cover.

Here's the one up front. The fender was in the space between the rubber and the frame.

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Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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Thanks Taylormade.

What is great about your car is that it is original. This is probably the first time the top of the frame has seen daylight since it was manufactured.

Chris

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I think you're correct. I believe the front fenders were taken off at some point and the car has definitely been repainted, but I'm sure this is the first time the body has been off the frame since 1932.

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Or, as Phil Kennedy reminded me, 1931 - as my car is a very early one and was probably built in 1931, not 1932.

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Your build record will tell you exactly what date the car was finished. My 32 DL was finished on January 26, 1932.

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Some great work going on here! Your rear fender conundrum reminds me of my Packard fenders, which I took off last fall. Once I removed the paint, a whole can of worms was opened. Rust AND body damage.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but any Chrysler built after July 31, 1931, is was sold as a 1932 model????

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Some great work going on here! Your rear fender conundrum reminds me of my Packard fenders, which I took off last fall. Once I removed the paint, a whole can of worms was opened. Rust AND body damage.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but any Chrysler built after July 31, 1931, is was sold as a 1932 model????

That was pretty much the way it was for the Chrysler products of the '30s. Then there was the "finally sold it" scenario of the depression where the car was titled the year sold.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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If anyone else is interested in the woodgraining process, I have lots of pictures of various parts going through the process at Under Cover Upholstery - Past Projects - Woodgraining

Thanks Dick for posting the pictures - why didn't you tell me I'm so good looking ... ;)

-Crin

I checked this out. WOW! Thas guy is good! Wonderful thread. I'll be sure to follow. Edited by Landman (see edit history)

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Taylormade, thanks for alerting us to this thread, you are a great documentarian. I have always thought that 1932 produced some of the most beautiful cars ever made, and this is one of them. I will be following from now on, keep up the good work.

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Fantastic thread! Thanks for putting a notice on the Restorations page... I would have hated to have missed this. Great story line, nice high-res pictures and tons of information.

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This week I headed over to Loop 70 Auto to work on the motor. Ed and I had dropped it off on my last visit. The shop is about four miles from Ed's place, so I could do a two-for-one day. The guys at Loop 70 had graciously suggested that I could save some money by disassembling the motor by myself - in their shop and under their supervision. Hard to refuse that! They had the motor on a stand and ready for me when I arrived.

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My first job was to remove the head studs. One of the things that really worked for me was that the shop obviously had all the correct tools for disassembly - stuff that would have cost me a fortune to buy or rent. All the studs but one came out easily. There's always one. It snapped before I even put any real pressure on it, so I suspect it was already damaged. They told me not to worry, they'd put the block on their drill press and get the broken stud (snapped below the level of the deck) out with no problem. If I'd done it at home, God knows how I'd have ever gotten it out!

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I removed the distributor and the oil pump. It turns out that both Phil and I had taken good care of the lubrication chores on Daphne. The entire motor - inside and out - was coated with a film of oil. It was everywhere! I wore rubber gloves and still ended up an oily mess at the end of the day.

Next, I flipped over the motor and removed the oil pan, getting my first look at the innards.

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Check out the copper oil lines. Not my favorite engineering method of delivering oil, but they were in good shape and the guys said if I was careful and didn't twist or crush them during removal, I'd be fine.

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Thanks to the coating of oil, the fasteners came off easily using two wrenches and both lines came free with no damage. It was kind of like loosening a huge brake line. The oil pickup and screen were very clean. Phil had drained the oil and cleaned up the oil pan at some time in the recent past, so there was no crud or debris coating the bottom. That was a welcome sight - thanks, Phil!

As I mentioned in a previous thread, there was some cylinder bore wear and a slight ridge at the top of the bore. It was slight enough that the guys recommended that I not bother with a ridge reamer and just pop the pistons out. I carefully removed the rod caps one at a time, then tapped each piston and rod out of the bore through the top. I used a thin metal rod on the bottom of the piston to tap on. This proved to be a two man job as there was danger of the rod getting caught on the cam or the piston falling out of the black and hitting the floor. I held the piston in the bore as one of the guys tapped and kept the rod straight and away from the crank and the cam. Despite the ridge, it took very little tapping to get each piston and rod out.

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At this point we could examine the babbitt rod bearings and the rod journals on the crank. Everyone was amazed! They were in very good condition. Some measuring revealed that the motor had been rebuilt at some time in the past. The rod journals had been turned and were slightly under the original specs. The guys told me that if I intended to use the car for parades and Sunday drives, they would use the rods as they were. They were in that good shape. They said there was usually checking and stress cracks in babbitt this old, but mine looked almost perfect. However - and there is always a however in car restoration - when I told them I intended to drive Daphne to Michigan for the 100th Anniversary Meet, the room went silent. Finally, I was told, "Well, they're good, but maybe not that good."

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We decided that discretion was the better part of valor and chose to rebabbitt the rods and turn the crank.

At this point it was about noon and I headed over to Ed's to see how the metal work was coming.

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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I arrived at Ed's and was delighted to see my passenger side front fender primed and ready to go.

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He then showed me progress on the rear fenders, which we originally thought would need little work. WRONG! They were almost as big a mess as the fronts. Lots of rustout where the fender met the body. Mucho cutting and replacing sections of metal,
all carefully shaped to fit.

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Ed had also sandblasted the lower sections of the body and we got our first look at the rust damage in that area. As usual, the blasting revealed all the hidden secrets the paint had been hiding. The good new was, that despite the rust holes in the rear fenders, the wheelwells themselves didn't need any metal replacement around the top - just a few small flat sections along the bottom.

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The lower driver's side turned out to be very solid - only one small section that will be easy to patch and a few pinholes that will weld up with no problem.

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Ed blasted the inside and everything looked good there, too. He will make sure all the rust is blasted out after the repair is done and then use a wand sprayer to coat the entire inside of this section with epoxy primer. This should make things good for the next eighty years.

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The passenger side was much worse. The entire lower section - inside and out - will have to be fabricated and used to replace the rust carnage. It will then get the same primer treatment. The sills and door bottoms on both sides look great. more good news.

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There were a few soft spots at the very bottom back of the body, but nothing major and patch panels will be easy to fabricate. The cowl and firewall look brand new - no corrosion at all. Very good news.

I can't wait to get everything back home so I can work on the frame and get the body and fenders over to the painter.

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By the way, does anyone know what this rubber mount/pad/damper is? It's a rubber piece bolted to the frame X-member, but nothing was attached to it and I can't figure out what it's supposed to do. Phil, crawl under your DL and let me know!

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By now it was almost two, so I headed back to Loop 70 to work some more on the motor.

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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Back at Loop 70 it was time to take out the crankshaft. The 32 Dodge was the last year for babbitt bearings. The four main bearings are removable bronze-backed with a babbitt surface, sort of an insert bearing on a grand scale. The main caps were a bear to get off as they are attached with studs in the block and very difficult to pull straight off. If they get cocked at all when you're removing them, they'll bind against the threaded stud. It was a royal pain getting them off!

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Once exposed the main crank journals looked as good as the rod journals. The babbitt inserts also looked very good, but since we decided to grind the crank, they will get new babbitt also. Loop 70 doesn't pour babbitt, so the rods and bronze inserts will be sent to Harkin Machine Shop in Watertown, South Dakota. They will pour new babbitt in the rods and finish the inside diameter to the specs Loop 70 will send them once they grind the crank. Harkin will also pour new babbit in the bronze inserts. This will be done oversize and then Loop 70 will line bore the mains in place in the block to match the newly ground crank main journals. Harkin charges $65 per rod and $55 per main.

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We plan to get new pistons from Egge, new valves and a new timing chain and gear.

My final chore was the tedious task of removing the valves, springs and lifters. Nothing exciting there. I used a typical L-head valve spring tool and fished the keepers out with a magnet. Everything came out with no problem except for one valve that had to have its head filed to remove a bit of mushrooming. The area was pretty clean, without the gunk I expected, and that made things a lot easier.

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With the valves out, I removed the camshaft, which looks very good.

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With that, the motor was totally disassembled and ready for cleaning and machine work.

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The folks at Loop 70 were great and there was a constant influx of customers having work done there - guys with model As, thirty era Chevys, Mopar and others, all ready to talk cars. It was a fun day.

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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Excellent progress and coverage of the progress! Thanks for the detailed shots and text. I will definitely be using this information when I do my DH6 engine. You are very lucky to be able to do some of the work yourself. It makes it less expensive and you get to learn and have pride in knowing you did a lot of it yourself.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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Hi

Is that the small dizzy on your engine?

It looks like the Delco 622.

Manuel in Oz

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The distributor is at the engine re-builders at the moment. I'll check for you next time I'm there. It is a tiny little thing.

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By the way, does anyone know what this rubber mount/pad/damper is? It's a rubber piece bolted to the frame X-member, but nothing was attached to it and I can't figure out what it's supposed to do. Phil, crawl under your DL and let me know!

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That's going to remain a mystery for now. I squirmed under my DL and found I have exactly the same thing as you do: an empty bracket with no obvious function. Anybody else have a clue?

Before I took a look I was guessing it might have been something to do with the mounting of the original exhaust system since I know for a fact your exhaust system is not original. I had a new system installed around 1968 at Midas or Sears. A round muffler (like on my present DL) is the original style.

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It was Midas - it's stamped on the muffler. I, too, suspect it has something to do with the exhaust, but I sure can't figure out what.

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I am wondering if that rubber block that is fitted to the frame is to eliminate harmonics or droning that can come from a vehicle I say this as there doesn't seem to be any way of attaching anything to it In short the rubber absorbed the noise Just a wild guess Ron

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It looks as though it is aligned with the exhaust pipe which seems to now be touching the frame member. I am suspecting it is part of an exhaust pipe hangar bracket. I have no further info. Just a thought because of the proximity of the exhaust pipe joint proximity to the rubberized mounting.

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It was Midas - it's stamped on the muffler. I, too, suspect it has something to do with the exhaust, but I sure can't figure out what.
I'm sure the resident mouse appreciated the roomier oval Midas muffler...'till I blew her nest out the tailpipe while waking up your DL!

What a smoldering mess all over the driveway! :eek:

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The distributor is at the engine re-builders at the moment. I'll check for you next time I'm there. It is a tiny little thing.

Yep. That sounds about right. Same as mine. Has the U shaped points.

Cheers.

Manuel in Oz

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Also just guessing: maybe a hanger was vulcanized to the rubber creating a rubber sandwich to stop vibration. Any trace of a rear hanger?

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