Taylormade

The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

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I think we need someone with a good grasp on upholstery to chime in on this even though this is body related. I guess the choice in material isn't ideal for this use. I don't think there's a way to shrink that particular material for use in an inside radius like you have.

I don't think slicing and re gluing it is a good idea. I'm sure the cuts will still be visible and would eventually come apart.

Maybe you could find some other better suited material to use in this place that matches the rest of the welting?

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2 hours ago, Bleach said:

I think we need someone with a good grasp on upholstery to chime in on this even though this is body related. I guess the choice in material isn't ideal for this use. I don't think there's a way to shrink that particular material for use in an inside radius like you have.

I don't think slicing and re gluing it is a good idea. I'm sure the cuts will still be visible and would eventually come apart.

Maybe you could find some other better suited material to use in this place that matches the rest of the welting?

I agree with the slicing and gluing. I was thinking out loud, I guess. I suppose if there was consistent pressure on the cuts they would not come apart.

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I'm off to the upholstery shop tomorrow.  Aside from taking a look at my almost finished seats, I plan to address the welt problem discussed above.  I talked to the owner of the shop on the phone and we came up with a possible solution.  He suggested using a waterproofed, black, fine weave canvas, cut on the bias and sewn around flexible cord.  He feels this would be able to make the curves required without wrinkling.  We'll see what happens.  Stay tuned!

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On 8/23/2017 at 1:28 AM, Taylormade said:

Rats, indeed.  I can only surmise  that the original welt was some sort of fabric and not vinyl, and this made it pliable enough to bend in both directions.

Have you tried a blow dryer to heat it just a bit???

 

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Hair dryer, heat gun, boiling water, Thompson sub-machine gun - nothing worked.  Conclusion- vinyl welt doesn't bend inwards.

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The new vinyl I bought was less pliable than the older stuff keiser31 graciously sent me.  I've come to the conclusion that vinyl isn't going to work, period.

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A good upholstery shop should be able to make a cloth or fabric welting.

 

Never mind, I see you have this idea covered.

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)

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I went over to see Russ at Pro Stitch, my upholstery shop, and he really helped me out on the fender welt problem.  He found a nice black vinyl made for boat interiors that is weather resistant and very soft and pliable.

 

IMG_0341.thumb.jpg.f7febe98f1bf0bd4449f69247f25e1dc.jpg

 

IMG_0342.thumb.jpg.19b3a599a00261182a06afe5b60384c8.jpg

 

He cut some strips on the bias, so the fabric would fold better in the directions I needed.

 

IMG_0344.thumb.jpg.37c3a5afccb0e1ac7503d4fc93c43936.jpg

 

Then he stitched up a couple of strips for me to try out, using a flexible fabric cord for the center.

 

IMG_0352.thumb.jpg.2f6060b3adc537ebc7ae0ee04938a0d2.jpg

 

Note the curved welt presser-foot he's using.

IMG_0354.thumb.jpg.b89e0dc9f7c235f7e03292d8c0a4e879.jpg

 

Very nice and very flexible.  I plan to try an installation this afternoon.  we'll see how it goes.

 

IMG_0356.thumb.jpg.0a324bff9048357efa1048f970df00aa.jpg

 

Russ is also nearing completion of the seats.  Those are threads, not stains on the fabric.  It still needs the buttons on the lower front seat cushion, but it's looking good.  Russ used canvas backing and cotton stuffing for an original look and feel.

 

IMG_0346.thumb.jpg.1d100691b3a9809177b98df0313a8e71.jpg

 

 

 

He used canvas backing for the pleats.

 

IMG_0348.thumb.jpg.d859424564dde8409c6e0dbe6558c7d6.jpg

 

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I'm looking forward to the finished product.

IMG_0347.thumb.jpg.9fbad43c9dec65f2670a30335750a1e4.jpg

 

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Looking good !!!

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The welting worked perfectly and I had the entire passenger side finished - just had to tighten everything up.  Naturally, disaster struck. I snapped a bolt.  Not just a run of the mill bolt, oh no, that would be too easy.  I snapped one of the impossible to find odd headed bolts that slides into a piece of channeled trim that holds the top of the running board splash apron in place.  To get to it I had to remove the running board, the rear fender,  the trim piece and the splash apron.  36 bolts in all.  I tried an idea posted by someone on this thread over two years ago regarding these bolts.  I went out and purchased toilet bolts that hold the toilet to the floor.  They worked perfectly and were exactly the right size - they slid right on the channel.  I'll ,post some pictures when I get up enough energy to go back out in the garage and start reassembly.  The joys of restoring your car.

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I fully understand your feelings of frustration when something like this happens.  You think the car is fighting you all the way, don't you?.  All I can say is keep your chin up and push on.  It will all be back together before you know it and this episode will just fade into history.

 

Thank goodness for this forum.  I have said it before but it really is an invaluable resource if you are restoring an old car.  I know the special toilet fixing bolts that you needed (with the flat oval heads) and goodness knows how much it would cost to get them specially made. Just $5 or so from the local store and half the problem is solved.  

 

Looking on the bright side, all the work so far has been very impressive.

 

Ray.

 

 

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Sorry the welting I sent didn't wok out, but I am awfully glad you got it resolved.

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I have generally replaced any suspect bolts with new grade eight units.  I knew the strip bolts were old and quite rusty, so I cleaned them carefully and chased the threads with a die, but I didn't really feel comfortable using them and I was right.  They were such odd ducks that I went against my better judgement.  I always grind off the markings on the heads of the new grade 8  bolts to make them look more "authentic," but I miss the look of the DB in a circle logo stamped on the originals.  Really a sickening feeling when the wrench let go and the old bolt snapped.  Anything along the running board or fender would have been a simple replacement  and a two minute fix.  Naturally, I snapped the bolt deepest into the build.  You're right, Ray, sometimes it does seem like the car is fighting you every step of the way.  

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Some shots of the original bolt and my hi-tech toilet replacement.

IMG_0358.thumb.jpg.1adb4f21d71125e92c76689c16a7a664.jpg

 

IMG_0359.thumb.jpg.0fa22dee0edb5e88885eea1c06ab3a6a.jpg

 

The new ones slide right into the channel like they were made for it.

 

IMG_0360.thumb.jpg.9e2e9493b5f9f56c90d0bb87f4d4c897.jpg

 

With that problem solved, I put everything back together using the new welt my upholstery guy made for me.  The new stuff was much better, easier to work with and it produced the look I was hoping for.

 

The old...

IMG_0339.thumb.jpg.f210f503722820a16a00b12f9596abf2.jpg

 

and the new...

 

IMG_0365.thumb.jpg.e8bbb8a57cecf833da71a96869a1b99e.jpg

 

 

 

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Is there anyone out there that reproduces that molding? My DH and my DD's are missing all but a few inches of that molding.

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I got mine from L&L Trim (417-476-2871) in Missouri.  Since then the original owner's son has kept the business running on an off and on basis.  I can't guarentee you will hear from him, others have had varying degrees of success.

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Sorry, I misunderstood.  I don't know of anyone reproducing the channel at this time.  I'm not enough of a metal working expert to know if a skilled shop could reproduce the channel.  Mine comes to a point at the front where it meets the fender and is rolled under to form the channel.  I assume Dodge had a large, proprietary machine to roll the steel to this shape. I was lucky in that mine were in very good condition.

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There was a guy by the name of Sherwood Kahlenberg in Los Angeles who was making that trim. Don't know if he is still doing that or maybe his son is.

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17 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Sorry, I misunderstood.  I don't know of anyone reproducing the channel at this time.  I'm not enough of a metal working expert to know if a skilled shop could reproduce the channel.  Mine comes to a point at the front where it meets the fender and is rolled under to form the channel.  I assume Dodge had a large, proprietary machine to roll the steel to this shape. I was lucky in that mine were in very good condition.

 

Could you shoot me a few pics of both ends and the profile?

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Unfortunately both are now on the car.  I'll dig around and see if I can find any shots I took during disassembly.  The back end is just squared off.  It's the front where things get complicated.  I'ii try and take some shots of the piece on the car, but black on black with all the reflections makes it hard to see.

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