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Paint colors for 1933 Plymouth PD Convertible Coupe


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Chris, I will check mine tomorrow and take some shots, my stalks are still attached so will get a measurement from the base up sitting the same as yours.

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Ply33 and Tom, Thanks. I think the three holes that hold the rumble step are correct. On the other hand the tail light stand offs are way too high on mine indicating other stand offs were applied in the 70's modernization. I will be equipping this car with right and left stand offs. Chris

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Keiser31, that is correct. This car had the sealed beam adaptors applied. In comparison to others that I have seen these are not so bad. I will be replacing these with original reflectors and rims. Chris

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The center measurement of the rear light stantion is 13" from the bottom fender lip. Your right fender is in original condition as only one tail light was installed in those days. Left fender if left drive, right fender if right drive. The other side was available as an option and but is absolutely necessary today. It's available from N.C. Industries along with the bucket. And you entered the rumble seat from the sidewalk side so the step is correct also for left hand drive. The hubcaps appear to be incorrect for 1933?

Edited by DodgeKCL (see edit history)
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DodgeKCL, When you say center you mean the center of the hole where the electrical conduit comes in to the tail light stand? This would make the distance from the bottom of the stand to the fender lip a little bit less than 13 inches? If I have that right than what is distance to the center hole of the stand from either the left fender lip or the right edge of the fender? This will let me locate the stand exactly. Those hubcaps are from a 1932? The running boards are from a 1934 Plymouth with three running board brackets. The 1933 PD has only two running board brackets. I have both a 1933 and a 1934 gas tank apron.

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What year are these, I have a set of 6

[ATTACH=CONFIG]198117[/ATTACH]

No joy with the rear fender dimension, sorry my day didn't go to plan, now away until Tues.

If fairly flat, 1930 & 1931. If raised about 3/4", 1932.

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If fairly flat, 1930 & 1931. If raised about 3/4", 1932.

'32 and '33 are, to the best of my knowledge, identical. Same pattern on as the '31 but as keiser31 notes, raised up a bit.

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'32 and '33 are, to the best of my knowledge, identical. Same pattern on as the '31 but as keiser31 notes, raised up a bit.

Thank you for that. Love to learn the details.

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post-86357-143141952776_thumb.jpg The work has slowed a bit. You can see the rust damage that was hidden by "bondo" during the 70's redo. The patch panel is from Riley's Body Shop and Reproductions (aka Floyd's) in Kansas. He is a nice guy to work with. He also has a number of other patch panels for these 1933 and 1934 Plymouth and Dodge bodies. I also have the right and left lower cowl patch panels on order. When Steve at my body shop cuts and fits these I will post pictures. The package tray presents a bit of a dilemma as it is missing the front edge which stands about 5 inches tall. Does anyone have a good picture of these without upholstery that can show details enabling me to fabricate one? Is the coupe body the same? I do know from looking at John Doerfler's Convertible that it follows the contour of the rear seat back and that the rear seat back nests within this front edge when pushed back fully. John's car has the upholstery attached so it makes it a bit difficult to get a feel for the metal shape. I am especially interested in how the ends turn down and attach to the bottom of the package tray. Thanks, Chris

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That looks a tidy patch panel, I think they all go through there, not quite sure why? Regarding the back seat dilemma I have the same problem but added to that mine has the rear window winder on the graduation mechanism, The seat base is on sliders to adjust the driving position, the parcel shelf has a thick cardboard type layer which I feel is original as is the roof bows and chicken wire.

Edited by TomP (see edit history)
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That looks a tidy patch panel, I think they all go through there, not quite sure why? Regarding the back seat dilemma I have the same problem but added to that mine has the rear window winder on the graduation mechanism, The seat base is on sliders to adjust the driving position, the parcel shelf has a thick cardboard type layer which I feel is original as is the roof bows and chicken wire.

I think one of the reasons that the coupes rust out there the most is because of the old streets with the big crown. The cars were parked on the slope and that is about the lowest part of the body where water might settle. Maybe around the trunk lid or rumble seat window is where the water may have come in. Anyway, that's my theory and I'm stickin' with it.

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Before these rear fenders make their way to the restoration shop I would like input on the placement of the tail light stands. I think the passenger side has not ever had a tail light and I trust the location of the step pad holes. The driver side I think has been changed. I would like to fill the un wanted holes and have some type of template to locate the correct holes. Thanks in advance.[ATTACH=CONFIG]197836[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]197837[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]197838[/ATTACH]

post-72422-143141957038_thumb.jpgProbably too late but this is mine today inner edge is end of panel.

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What is the same is the front edge that has a rolled edge in the sheet metal. In fact if I had a package shelf from a coupe I could make one for the convertible. Where your package shelf is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep (vertical), the convertible is about 5 1/2 inches deep. Looks like the rear window assembly is fairly complex. These are great pictures and they answer a lot of questions. Chris

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Scott, I have resized to fit our forum. This shows what I was unable to see "under" John Doerfler's upholstery. It also shows shape of sheet metal augmenting the detail of the earlier two photos. I am guessing that there is a tacking strip that goes on the top edge that finishes the upholstery? Is this right and does the coupe have the same tacking strip? Thanks, Chrispost-86357-143141961154_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
post-86357-143141977382_thumb.jpgJust got the grille shell, rear bumper face bar and top of windshield frame back from the plating shop. Overall they exceeded my expectations. This is a triple plate process and they prepared and polished the front bead only to a high lustre, the rest of it had extra copper plated to fill pits and the surface smoothed out to accept paint. You may recall a thread from earlier this year discussing the different ways a PD grille shell can be finished. This one will have a chrome bead on front only, the rest painted Durode Gray (gray tan). The plater is Houston Speed and Sport Chrome Plating in Houston Texas and I would highly recommend them to anyone. Their specialty is pot metal repair and plating. I will post face bar and windshield top bar in a later post. Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I have a 1933 Dodge Cabriolet DP6 that I am looking to restore to original condition. The motor is a 1938 Dodge (looking for a 1933 Dodge engine). Also, the serial number tag inside the passenger door hinge post is missing. When I bought the car the title stated the serial number of the 1938 engine. I am very sure that the car has been a Northern CA car its whole life (it has a 1939 Stanford University Student Parking Sticker in the window). Also found a photo of it in a local restaurant (shown in parking lot in 1942).

Question, can the Chrysleer Historical Society track down all of the 1933 Dodge Cabriolets sent to dealers in 1933? (I know they only made 1,200ish of these models). Any other ideas to back into the correct car serial number?

Thanks,

Mike<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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Mike, see my comments under your message in "Dodge". Great looking car. Have you called Floyd's and talked to him about the missing panel? These cars are very, very similar to Plymouth unless yours is a long wheelbase 8 cylinder car. Doesn't the frame number (driver side rear on Plymouth) match the engine number and car serial number? Or is it just the frame and engine serial numbers? Chris

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Hi Chris,

Floyd doesn't have a panel for the rumble seat car, only the trunk version. Not sure on the car serial number, but I will look into it. Also, can't find where to start a new thread....

Mik

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Hi Chris,

Floyd doesn't have a panel for the rumble seat car, only the trunk version. Not sure on the car serial number, but I will look into it. Also, can't find where to start a new thread....

Mik

Scroll back up to the "Dodge and Dodge Brothers" forum and on the right side just above the posts/threads you will see the "Forum Tools" notation. Click on that and see where it says, "Start a new post".

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post-86357-143142024642_thumb.jpgThese parts dropped off to the body shop for painting. The first is the special bracket that is used to adjust the rear sheet metal panel vis-à-vis the decklid in the rear. It is discussed also in the Dodge part of this forum under "1933 Dodge DP6 Convertible Coupe". I hope I have the title right. That Dodge is pretty much the same as this Plymouth. Also it's condition is about the same. The rear spare tire bracket is shown. The two brackets in the upper right hand side of the photo are for the rear irons of the convertible top assembly. The engine splash pans are shown and even though one is marked 1933 Dodge it is the same as another one I have that was marked 1933 Plymouth. I test fitted these and they appear to be correct. Chris

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post-86357-143142025214_thumb.jpgThese are some small parts that most of you will recognize. How do you like the extra hole in the oval plate on the left? This will be filled in or I will place a clock in it which is what the hole was drilled for. I have not ever seen a dash board clock for these 1933 PD Plymouths. If anyone has one please post a picture. The small hole above the "clock" hole is for the light switch. Cowl vent is above these ovals. Originally I thought the dash board lights would be attached to a terminal on the light switch that would turn them on with parking lights or headlights. Even though they can be wired this way my wiring diagram shows a separate switch for this. It is drawn like a toggle switch. Any idea of where this is mounted on the dashboard or on the lower flange of the dashboard? Anyone who knows what this switch looks like can you describe it or post a picture? Thanks in advance Chris

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post-86357-143142025332_thumb.jpgSheet metal everywhere. All have been striped, painted with epoxy primer. The paint system is a PPG paint system. The drivers door has a lot of rust out. I am thinking the door window in this door is raised and lowered much more frequently than the passenger side and the rubber weather strip just wore out faster allowing water to flow down into the door. Fender beads are nice and straight, not broken. They need body work but are otherwise good. Good body men can look at each of these panels and see the bumping work and repair work that is ahead for Steve Bockel at Clean Rides Auto Restoration in Wallis, Texas. Steve does work for some of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America (VCCA) guys in the Houston area as well he is an expert on restoring VW Combi's. He just sent two to Europe and is finishing another for a guy in Denver. My other cars are early thirties Chevrolets and this is how I came to find him. Hope this is keeping your interest. Chris

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post-86357-143142025353_thumb.jpgThe patch panels worked out well from Riley's (Floyds) in Kansas. I also used one in the front of the right wheel well and will buy another for the left side. Once all the sheet metal work on the body proper is done we will assemble and test fit all the pieces, including the hood and chromed grill shell. This will let Steve know what adjustments to the fenders etc need to be made prior to finishing them in Durode Gray (dark tan). This will be a major milestone for me as I disassembled the car in 1980 and have not seen it assembled since. Tomorrow I will post work on the bumper face bars. Chris

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. . . Originally I thought the dash board lights would be attached to a terminal on the light switch that would turn them on with parking lights or headlights. Even though they can be wired this way my wiring diagram shows a separate switch for this. It is drawn like a toggle switch. Any idea of where this is mounted on the dashboard or on the lower flange of the dashboard? Anyone who knows what this switch looks like can you describe it or post a picture? Thanks in advance Chris

I can't find an online picture so I'll have to take one but that won't happen until after the weekend.

The toggle switch is located on the bottom flange of the dash board below and a little to the left of the headlight switch. I think a modern toggle switch from Radio Shack would fit the hole but at least mine has a very vintage look to the toggle that I haven't seen on modern switches.

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Ply33,

Thanks, It is the little things and attention to details that make for good restorations. It is half the work and a big part of the fun.

Chris

I remembered a bit wrong on location, its closer to the kick panel than I wrote earlier. No guarantee that the switch is original, but it is the one that was on the car when I got it in 1973 and none of the other dash board controls had been swapped out.

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Chris--Ply33 is correct about the mounting location for the dash light switch. You know me, I'm a 34 PE guy, but every PE or PE dash I ever owned had the same instrument lamp switch, a photo of which is attached. The 34 PE parts book lists the part number as 79498. If you look at "Pre-1934 Plymouth Master Parts List", which includes the 33 PD, it shows the same part number, 79498, for the PA, PB and PD. Keeping in mind the weird world of Mopar parts numbers, my guess is that this is the switch for the 33 PD as well. Hope this helps. SMBpost-89602-143142025932_thumb.jpg

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