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Paint colors for 1933 Plymouth PD Convertible Coupe


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1935 Dodge Van and Keiser31,

Many thanks. I will try this later this week. First to align the dovetail. The block of wood also protects the jack head from going through the bottom sheet metal on door.

Once this is done we can see pictures of how far forward the front door edge might be and look for ideas to push it back towards the rear of the car using would wedges.

Thanks again, Chris

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Thanks 35 Dodge Van and Keiser,

The results are good.

First a look at the Driver Door this required no tweaking. Hope the photo quality is good. To the folks running the forum thanks for the new easier to upload photo process.

 

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We placed a jack and a 2x6 under front edge of door that was opened about half way. We lifted the front edge of the door upwards with the jack. this was Effective in lining up the reveals on the front edge. it did result in a closing of the gap at rear edge top.

 

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We than used the shim under the body bolt plan. We loosened the hinge pillar bolt and the one behind it. We placed a jack under the body and began lifting it up. this threw the top of the hinge pillar backwards and opened the gap without throwing any of the other gaps out of spec. The photo with the correct gap is shown above with the ones for the driver door.

The next step is figuring out how the bottom front of the door can be rolled or flexed inward but for now I am happy with the alignment of the reveals and the gaps.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Tom thanks for the encouragement. One thing I've learned that most already know is that these projects take time.

 

We start the preassembly work to be sure all body parts fit as required. Now that the doors are properly opening and closing.

We attached the grille shell support rods loosely. We than added a hood half to check where to position grille support rods. Looks like hood is going to fit well. we need to pull backwards on grille shell to reduce gap between hood front and shell. This week we will assemble other half of hood and align front fenders, grille shell and hood halves. Next will be the running boards and than the rear fenders and gas tank apron. I feel the best approach is front to back after the doors are aligned.

Once all sheet metal is fitted properly and tightened up they will be disassembled and sent to the paint booth.

 

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1933 Plymouth PD Grille Shell Assembly a.jpg

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1933 Plymouth PD Hood Alignment a.jpg

1933 Plymouth PD Hood Alignment b.jpg

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Always seems a shame to plate the whole radiator grill shell and them paint over all be the little raised bead. . . I think the '34 models dealt with that by having a chrome trim piece that attached to the shell.

 

Looking great, keep up the good work!

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4 hours ago, ply33 said:

Always seems a shame to plate the whole radiator grill shell and them paint over all be the little raised bead. . . I think the '34 models dealt with that by having a chrome trim piece that attached to the shell.

 

Looking great, keep up the good work!

They did make that change in 34 but only after a fairly significant run done the same way, painting most of the already plated shell.  The change over to the stainless, 4 piece trim (ever try to find the little piece on the bottom?? Near impossible...) also brought about a change in the grille from 37 bars to 35 bars.  In any event, I have always imagined what it would be like to have been in that meeting with the accountants:  "You mean you guys have been plating the whole shell and then painting over most of it?  That has got to stop!!".  Car looking great as always, keep up the nice work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Making a little more progress. I'll let the photo's speak for themselves. The rubber coated running boards were made by Paul Bowling at Buckeye Rubber Parts. Does anyone know if he is still in business? These were made in early 2000's.

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

Ok, plan is to have this disassembled and into paint booth next week. I have not seen it assembled like this since 1979.

 

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I will post pictures of the finished colors in the next few weeks.

 

Chris

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Taylormade,

He will use a single stage, not a system using clear coat. It is a Polyurethane (?) system from PPG. The colors on this Plymouth will be Durode Gray (actually a nice, rich tan) with Red Pin Stripe, door tops, and wire wheels.

It was sure nice seeing the body and sheet metal back on after all these years. I am sure you felt the same way with your '32 Dodge when the body was refitted.

Of course it will all come apart again next week as the fenders etc will be painted off the car and than reassembled.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Visited today and the '33 PD is disassembled again and in paint booth. As most know we struggle with higher humidities than most in this part of the world. We have about five days of lower humidity coming.

 

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Wheels and tires ready for disassembly sandblasting and powder coating. They will be Red, as is on the coupon, to match pin stripe and door top edge.

 

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I had a lot of repair work to add the missing teeth and crank hole ring. screws are there mainly to line up pieces so they can be silver soldered by plater before plating. If they need to stay they will be not noticeable.

 

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Hope this is helpful and informative, Chris

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Can't wait to see it in full colour, you have the wiring loom in as yet, loads to do on these cars to bring them back but you have set a very high standard which all takes time and money, will the rad grill be chromed?

 

Will continue to watch with interest.

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Tom the grill is chrome plated as is the grill shell. Than they paint a good portion of the grill shell leaving only the front bead chrome like your cars.

Dave, thankfully this is not a pot metal grill. Still looking for a door check strap for this car if you can find anything after your move.

Chris

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The wheels are completed. Three are excellent rim, spokes, and hub. One is very good hub, spokes and a very nice rim but with a small dent I did not notice earlier. One is excellent rim and spokes but pitting on hub. I think the hubcaps will cover these. The powder coating is like chrome plating it has a high build that will need to be removed to set the hubcaps in their holes.

 

I bought the tires, tubes, and flaps from the folks at Universal Tire Co. in Pennsylvania. They were helpful and provided a good deal of information. They also have the tubes with straight stems (not off set stems). If I remember these are made for 17 and 18 inch applications. We used a Coat's wheel machine at the tire shop, all tools in touch with rim were nylon. They did not scratch a single one of them.

 

The owner was helpful and I had a chance to teach a younger person about tube tires, baby powder made from talc, installing tubes etc. They even let me help in the shop, a little bit like Tom Sawyer and painting the fence. All in all an easy part of what has been a challenging restoration project. 

 

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I trust this is helpful, Chris

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On 3/16/2017 at 1:15 PM, countrytravler said:

Had a customer powder coat a 36 Dodge grill and it destroyed the grill because of heat and the grill being made from pot metal. Has anybody else have this problem?

Once, when I was 17 years old I had a pair of rear engine mounts for my 1931 DB powdercoated. BIG MISTAKE! They never told me there was so much heat involved that it would destroy the rubber. I still have them. They look great, but are mushy and useless. Live and learn.

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1 hour ago, 1935EB said:

The wheels are completed. Three are excellent rim, spokes, and hub. One is very good hub, spokes and a very nice rim but with a small dent I did not notice earlier. One is excellent rim and spokes but pitting on hub. I think the hubcaps will cover these. The powder coating is like chrome plating it has a high build that will need to be removed to set the hubcaps in their holes.

 

I bought the tires, tubes, and flaps from the folks at Universal Tire Co. in Pennsylvania. They were helpful and provided a good deal of information. They also have the tubes with straight stems (not off set stems). If I remember these are made for 17 and 18 inch applications. We used a Coat's wheel machine at the tire shop, all tools in touch with rim were nylon. They did not scratch a single one of them.

 

The owner was helpful and I had a chance to teach a younger person about tube tires, baby powder made from talc, installing tubes etc. They even let me help in the shop, a little bit like Tom Sawyer and painting the fence. All in all an easy part of what has been a challenging restoration project. 

 

I trust this is helpful, Chris

 

Interesting that Universal has the tubes. . . Last two times I bought tires for mine I couldn't find ones for 17" with radial valve stems. I ended up using motorcycle tires. When this set of tires wear out, I'll be contacting Universal. Thanks for the information!

 

Oh, and your wheels look great!

 

p.s. Did they balance the wheels and tires? Or at least check the balance even if they did not add weights. One of the issues I've had with other brand tires in that size is they seem to take a lot of wheel weights to get balanced (I've checked the wheels without tires and they are true radially and laterally and are balanced so I'm pretty sure the imbalance is in the tires not the rims).

Edited by ply33 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Todd,

I will use this little jewel I just received. Need to buy wheel weights. This is a Bada Carr M-60 from the 1960's. The wheel fits on the "spindle" so I am good to go as soon as I set it up in my shop and get the weights. I love these old gas station tools.

 

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I will post progress photos if things work out with set up, etc.

 

Chris

 

 

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30 minutes ago, 1935EB said:

Todd,

I will use this little jewel I just received. Need to buy wheel weights. This is a Bada Carr M-60 from the 1960's. The wheel fits on the "spindle" so I am good to go as soon as I set it up in my shop and get the weights. I love these old gas station tools.

 

I will post progress photos if things work out with set up, etc.

 

Chris

 

That is the same make/model unit I borrowed to balance my wheels last time. Unfortunately the tool's owner moved one direction and I another so borrowing it is no longer feasible and I'll have to do something different for my next set of tires.

 

I am looking forward to hearing how many ounces each of your wheels need to get properly balanced.

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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/30/2014 at 2:19 PM, 1935EB said:

Hi Steve,

The photos show the correct orientation of the wood under tracks. In the photos the front is to right and the rear is to the left.

Can't see any photos on photobucket, is it a pay to play service now??

 

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