Voltage regulator problems

[Guest davette59]

I have posted this question on the Studebaker forum site but was unable to get my question answered.

I have purchased a 1960 Studebaker Lark 6 cylinder and the existing voltage regulator got fried because the car was caught in a flood and I am nursing it back to health. I have had the generator tested and it works fine. I would expect that the previous owner replaced it since it was obviously under water. Thr starter works as well. The information on the generator is this--

12volt shunt---external voltage regulator and current control---Electric Auto-Lite Co. Toledo---Chrysler Corp. part #1770754-------It appears that the generator serial number is # GJP2012. There are several at RockAuto.com but I'm not sure how to match the correct one with the generator.

Dave

[Marty Roth]

Try this website - it lists a specific regulator for specific years:

Studebaker Lark Voltage Regulator - 1959 - 1964 1962 1961 1960 - TheAutoPartsShop

[Guest davette59]

Thanks for responding. I have found several sites that list a certain regulator for certain years but my problem is that I don't think the generator is the original equipment. I believe I need to match a regulator to this specific generator but can't be sure. I asked the guy that tested the generator and he said I need to make sure the regulator is for an "A" circuit, whatever that means.

[Marty Roth]

Check this site, or one like it for the part number of the original generator, or a corresponding type, and then cross-match - hopefully - to the one which is on your car ! You may be pleasantly surprised !!

As long as it is an "A" TYpe, and not the other (Is that an "F" Type?)

Edited March 12, 2013 by Marty Roth (see edit history)

[Guest Bob Call]

Dave

I looked at the Rock Auto and The Auto Parts Shop sites and both show the Standard Motor Products part #VR15 as the regulator for the Autolite generator. The picture shows that it has 2 terminals opposed to 3 terminals for the regulator for the Delco generator. Check the number of terminals on the regulator on your car and if it is 2 terminals then the VR15 is the correct regulator.

[Guest davette59]

Well, I took the generator to a second generator rebuilder and I still didn't get an answer as to what voltage regulator to get. I have just decided to order the one listedin RockAuto for the 1960 Lark and hope for the best. Who knows, the generator that's in there could actually be the original. I have gone round and round with this problem for a couple of weeks with no actual solid results. If it burns up the generator, so be it. I have tried everythink conceivable. I was shocked that two rebuilders couldn't give me an answer. One of them said it had to be an A circuit regulator but the auto supply stores have no idea what that is. Oh well, we shall see.

[startergenrebuilder]

I'm sure the one you ordered will work just fine. I could have sold you the correct one if I would have seen your post sooner. Remember that just because the regulator will allow the generator to put out a certain amount, it's won't unless the vehicles load is requiring that amount. With that said, I doubt you'll burn the generator up.

I'll try and clear up the "A" circuit confusion for you. There are two different style generators, "A" & "B" circuit. Most Autolite and Delco generators are "A" circuit and most Ford's are "B" circuit. There are exceptions to this, but generally that is the case. In a generator, you have a set of field coils with two leads, one on each end of the coil set. One end of the coil is either hooked to ground or positive and the other end terminates at the field terminal. If it's grounded, that is a "B" circuit and in order to full field the generator you would have to hook the other end (field terminal) to positive. If it's hooked to positive or Armature (Delco & Autolite), that's an "A" circuit and you ground the other end (field terminal) to full field it. Full fielding a generator is when you hook the field terminal to either ground or battery to test generator without regulator. It helps to determine if you are dealing with a bad generator or regulator. That will either clear up the "A" circuit mystery or confuse you even more. I apologize if it confuses you.

If you are concerned about getting the correct regulator, feel free to contact me. Good Luck!

[Guest Bob Call]

Dave I don't mean this to be hateful, but, did you read my post? According to the Rock Auto and The Auto Parts sites some Larks were fitted with Autolite generators and some were fitted with Delco generators. Thus 2 different voltage regulators offered. Standard Motor Products part # VR15 for the Autolite and part # VR20 for the Delco.

[Guest davette59]

I'm sure the one you ordered will work just fine. I could have sold you the correct one if I would have seen your post sooner. Remember that just because the regulator will allow the generator to put out a certain amount, it's won't unless the vehicles load is requiring that amount. With that said, I doubt you'll burn the generator up.

I'll try and clear up the "A" circuit confusion for you. There are two different style generators, "A" & "B" circuit. Most Autolite and Delco generators are "A" circuit and most Ford's are "B" circuit. There are exceptions to this, but generally that is the case. In a generator, you have a set of field coils with two leads, one on each end of the coil set. One end of the coil is either hooked to ground or positive and the other end terminates at the field terminal. If it's grounded, that is a "B" circuit and in order to full field the generator you would have to hook the other end (field terminal) to positive. If it's hooked to positive or Armature (Delco & Autolite), that's an "A" circuit and you ground the other end (field terminal) to full field it. Full fielding a generator is when you hook the field terminal to either ground or battery to test generator without regulator. It helps to determine if you are dealing with a bad generator or regulator. That will either clear up the "A" circuit mystery or confuse you even more. I apologize if it confuses you.

If you are concerned about getting the correct regulator, feel free to contact me. Good Luck!

Thanks for your response Jason. This is the scoop so far.

the generator number is GJC 7012A and is from Chrysler Corp. but als says AutoLite on the bottom of the tag. I have gone ahead and ordered the Standard Motor Products VR-15 from RockAuto. I think it was $41 as compared to $85 from the two rebuilders I talked with and $92 from Studebaker International. I hope this is the correct regulator. All of the confusion cam because I was not sure if this was the original generator therefore the correct regulator for the 60 Lark might not necessarilr be the right one for the generator. The Chrysler Corp.. Thing thew me for a loop. I hope I made the right choice because the parts suppliers can only match to the car info.

Thanks, Dave

[Guest davette59]

Yes Bob, I did read your post and if I was sure that the generator was original equipment It would have been a no brainer. However, the car had been in a flood and the regulator was solid rust and since the generator looked in excellent shape and tested OK, I assumed that it was replaced or possibly rebuilt. I was thrown off with the Chrysler Corp. name plate as well. Thanks for your comment and I did go to RockAuto and purchase the VR-15 regulator which , from all the comments, I feel is the correct one.

This forum is a wealth of information from so many willing to help. I have belonged to the Corvair forum for years and could never have completed the restoration of my 63 Corvair Spyder Convertible without the help from other members.

[Guest Commodore]

Well, the generator that Davette59 has is a Chrysler generator for the following cars.

1957 and 1958 - on all Mopar cars except Imperials and the Chrysler 300s.

1959 - All Canadian-built cars (Plymouth, Dodge, Dodge Custom Royal, DeSoto

Firedome, Chrysler Windsor & Saratoga)

What Davette59 calls the serial number is the Auto-Lite part number and it should be GJP7012. The voltage regulator should be a Auto-Lite VRX-6201A or Standard Motor Products VR15.