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65 Buick Special Base V-6...Exhaust connection


Guest TKJ sr1

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Guest TKJ sr1

Having trouble figuring out and finding what kind and where to get exhaust gaskets that go from header to the collector and to the exhaust pipe. Can't find anyone who know a damn thing including me....Felling kind dumb right now.:cool:....

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your talking headers not standard exhaust manifolds? custom exhaust ? headers go to any good parts store that sells performance exhaust they should be able to get them for you. I get all my parts at napa they have a person there that I have dealt with for about 30 years he does not look up parts for older stuff in a computer he will dig out the books and look for the part. I went in the other week for a rear ujoint for my Chrysler 300 he didn't even have to look up the number he remembered the number went to the self and pulled it.

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Guest TKJ sr1

Thanks.... stock manifold...maybe i should take one manifold and the the collector to a parts store. You recommend NAPA?

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Guest TKJ sr1

Most of these local chain store people, no idea. If their vender doesn't stoke it, they are at a loss. Not seem very willing to spend the time to help the search.

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I have a 1974 Walker Exhaust catalog. It shows no gaskets required brtween the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe and no gasket between the crossover and exhaust pipe. I think these connections are beveled, sort of a ball and flare. They can be pivoted a bit for adjustment and fit. The flanges should be able to move on the pipe before being tightened. Hope this helps.

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I assume you are talking about the donut gaskets between the outlet of the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust pipes. As noted, GM often used metal-to-metal seals with no gasket at this location. I'm familiar with Oldsmobiles, which have been this way forever. If, as misterc9 points out, Buick also used metal-to-metal seals then you can't find the part number because there isn't one. Just look at the outlet port of the manifold. If it has a male metal flare, there is no donut used - you couldn't install one if you wanted to. If the manifold has a flat outlet port surface with a short counterbore inside the hole, then measure the diameter of the counterbore and simply find a donut that matches.

Note that these were NOT "ball and socket" style joints but simply metal-to-metal flares. Often rust will build up on either the manifold or the pipe flare, causing a leak. If necessary, sand the rust off, taking care to preserve the contour of the tapered surface. If it is pitted heavily, you can get high temp exhaust sealer to fill the pits.

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Guest TKJ sr1

You guys are the best. Thanks so much. The exhaust manifold appears to taper to it, no flare. I did get a couple gasket donut type gaskets, but they do not fit over the male part of the manifold. Once it stops raining here in sunny So. Ca. I will pull one of the manifolds off and find a donut that slips over it. As you can tell I'm not the most experienced restorer. Thanks again everyone. I'm sure as this project moves along I will be stumped again.

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You guys are the best. Thanks so much. The exhaust manifold appears to taper to it, no flare. I did get a couple gasket donut type gaskets, but they do not fit over the male part of the manifold. Once it stops raining here in sunny So. Ca. I will pull one of the manifolds off and find a donut that slips over it. As you can tell I'm not the most experienced restorer. Thanks again everyone. I'm sure as this project moves along I will be stumped again.

If the manifold has a male metal taper that matches the female flare on the pipe, no donut is used. It's a metal to metal seal as I noted above.

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Guest TKJ sr1

The manifold is flat at the connection. Went to NAPA, got the same blank stare. Flipped through a few pages of a book, very little help at all. He says go to a muffler shop. Ofcourse, it's sat. all are closed. Stopped in at a non chain parts store. I take the manifold and crosspipe in. Ok he says. Not even opening a book. He heads to the back of the store. 5 mins. later he comes out with a donut off a 61 to 67 Caddy V-8. Bingo. It has a sleeve that fits inside the manifold and rounded bottom to fit the crosspipe. The crosspipe must be bent a little. Doesn't quite line up right. At $23.00 for the pair it better be put on right the first time. Thanks for all your input.

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Guest TKJ sr1

New question. A the bottom of the choke, there is a threaded connection. I assume it is to supply heat to move the choke open. At the bottom of the exhaust manifold the is an open nipple. So, should there be a steel line routed between the two? If so, how is it routed? Over the valve covers or along the manifold and up and parallel to the valve cover? I assume it must be all steel and flared to fit on the choke connection.

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New question. A the bottom of the choke, there is a threaded connection. I assume it is to supply heat to move the choke open. At the bottom of the exhaust manifold the is an open nipple. So, should there be a steel line routed between the two? If so, how is it routed? Over the valve covers or along the manifold and up and parallel to the valve cover? I assume it must be all steel and flared to fit on the choke connection.

I'm not sure of the exact routing, but yes, you need to connect the two. Your chassis service manual should show the routing.

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