1910Hupp Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Well the engine is back and looks really good Today I bit the bullet and decided to reinstall it -What a nightmare Its taken me 7 hours and I'm no further ahead than I was this morning -My Problem is lining it all up . Lining up the U joint is difficult but do able but when I do this I can't seem to get the engine to move back far enough. The engine mounts won't line up with the mounting points on the cross members Specifically it is about 1/2 inch to far forward when the U Joint is fully engaged . ie the rear cross member has the bottom of the gear box sitting on it rather than rear engine mount area .I suspect its got some thing to do with the drive shaft as when we removed the engine the drive shaft sprung upwards rather than falling down as I expected it to. When the U joint engages I can't push the torque tube down as it is connnected to the gearbox and that is sitting on the cross member . The gearbox won't drop down until it moves further back which it won't do .If I push the torque tube down and block it where I think it should be I can't line up the U Joint properly . Ugh Some advice would be sure appreciated Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Well, I read your post this morning, and have been thinking about it all day.How is your car supported off the floor, or is it?With the frame supported, and the radius rods disconnected from transmission and the brake rods disconnected, the rear end assembly should swing out of the way to allow you to install the engine/transmission. You then swing the rear end back in place while letting the ujoint slip into place, and replace the radius rods to position the rear end. Interesting...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1910Hupp Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) David Thanks The frame wasn't supported enough and the brake rods where still connected I was trying to line the gearbox mounting , U-Joint and gearbox linkages all at once in three dimensions and all round the drive shaft (itself under tension from the rear spring) -I actually worked all this out this at 1 am this morning - I'm sure will go together when I do as you suggested. Karl Edited March 3, 2013 by hupdoc (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Edgar Bowen Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I have just this week found the simplest way to install the engine in a Hupp 20.1. Remove the torque tube from the differential with axle stands to take its weight.2. Raise the rear of the chassis with a trolley jack or endless chain and support both chassis rails with axle stands.3. Place the trolley jack under the differential and and raise the wheels to take the weight of the back axle.4. Undo the rear spring U bolts and lower the jack until the spring drops out of the rear cross member, and lay it down.5. Hoist the power unit, engine and gearbox and lower it into the front of the car making sure the reverse rod of the gearbox slides into the bracket which supports it. You will need to have the front of the engine quite a bit higher than the gearbox. Then lower the engine into position.6. With two other axle stands on a low engine trolley (or a brawny assistant) support the torque tube while the front of it is lined up with the gearbox. Using a piece of 16 guage wire to hold up the waggly bit of the universal, and a torch to see by, insert the universal into the gearbox and when it is in place draw out the wire before pushing the torque tube all the way home.7. Making sure it doesn't slip out again, re-connect the rear end of the torque tube to the differential with a new gasket and goo.8. Lift the rear axle again with the trolley jack and carefully raise the spring back into the cross member taking care not to dislodge the u bolts in the process because they are only dangling down. Replace their nuts and tighten them up. You have to be careful to align the spring centrally.9. Lower the chassis again, replace the radius rods and brake rods.10. Place 6mm thick rubber insertion under the front engine mount, 4mm thick insertion under the gearbox mount and 3mm insertion in front of the gearbox mount. Do up the bolts and the job is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenHupp20 Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 It's no fun.I used another method. Laid some ( 4) boards down on the shop floor each side of the tires. Then four more short ones cross ways front & back of each tire to keep the rear end from moving too much.And just like Edgar used a bit of wire to hold up the "waggly" end of the universal. Jeez Edgar I just loved that description.And the "torch" ! A cautionary note here to anyone in the northern hemisphere : torch = flashlight.I do hope you get the joke, as to most of us "up " here a torch = flame.All in good humor with our brothers down under, you guys are a wealth of knowledge! Not sure if I have any photos of the set up, one of those days in theshop you'd rather not remember !good luck , Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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