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1930 DA-124


30DodgePanel

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Dave Sherman made a good point in a recent post, do you understand how to read your tire sizes as shown on these sheets?

I thought I did but now I'm starting to second guess....

The tire size I have on it currently is 6.00 x 20. I went back to try and locate the sheets your referring to but I must have missed something. Can you clarify what your referring to ?

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These vacuum wiper boxes were made of pot metal and as they age the metal becomes brittle. I would think drilling to adapt to other parts would not be a good decision.

To have a functioning wiper would be of first importance and the pitting of the metal is just cosmetic.

I noticed the that your vacuum connection is on the opposite side as mine.

Edited by stakeside (see edit history)
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There is the math 20+2x6=32, or your tire is a 32x6. Is that listed in your DA 124 manual?

No, just mentions "Front 5/20 - 6 ply; Rear 5/20 - 8 ply" in the Instruction Book/Owners Manual.

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Should say on the tires though right ?

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These vacuum wiper boxes were made of pot metal and as they age the metal becomes brittle. I would think drilling to adapt to other parts would not be a good decision.

To have a functioning wiper would be of first importance and the pitting of the metal is just cosmetic.

I noticed the that your vacuum connection is on the opposite side as mine.

Yeah drilling thru pot metal would not be a good thing but, I thought the covers on the good one were made of more of a brass material, I'll have to look into this more and find out, just going from memory. I was more concerned about loosing any kind of vacuum seal if not drilled precisely enough, just wondering ?.

As for the connection for vac I wonder what the reason for that would be ? As I said the donor is a heavier model 31 or 32 F series, wonder if that could be it. Maybe I have the incorrect part then ? Which side of the area on your extra windshield frame has the port for the vac tube at the top of the frame , left or right as your looking out the glass from the drivers seat ?

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Yeah drilling thru pot metal would not be a good thing but, I thought the covers on the good one were made of more of a brass material, I'll have to look into this more and find out, just going from memory. I was more concerned about loosing any kind of vacuum seal if not drilled precisely enough, just wondering ?.

As for the connection for vac I wonder what the reason for that would be ? As I said the donor is a heavier model 31 or 32 F series, wonder if that could be it. Maybe I have the incorrect part then ? Which side of the area on your extra windshield frame has the port for the vac tube at the top of the frame , left or right as your looking out the glass from the drivers seat ?

Referring to my recently purchased Operation Manual page 8, I see the vacuum hose on the drivers side as is my wiper. I do not have the wiper for the donor window frame.

I have no idea where the vacuum tube is routed.

Does your Operation manual show the vacuum tube?

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Referring to my recently purchased Operation Manual page 8, I see the vacuum hose on the drivers side as is my wiper. I do not have the wiper for the donor window frame.

I have no idea where the vacuum tube is routed.

Does your Operation manual show the vacuum tube?

Interesting, I see yours as being upside down compared to the one from the Wisconsin parts truck. .., yours is correct though...

No my manual doesn't show it, unfortunately I only have the side view from the passenger side of my interior, but it does show it upside down from yours and the tube looks like it is on the left but hard to tell.

On page 8 of your manual I do see how the tube goes up and to the left and seems to disappear into the upper frame of the windshield. But, when I study this pic below of the 28 GB/DB 1/2 ton Panel truck that I posted pics of earlier it seems the tube goes over to the drivers side pillar then drops down. Just a guess but I would think it ties in under the dash and thru a grommet on the engine firewall leading to the engine for suction/vacuum. I'm guessing this is a universal method of routing the tube.

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Heres the only interior view from my manual

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Its just a steel line that comes off your vacuum tank, runs thru the firewall, over behind the left kick panel area and then a rubber tube that is simply slid over the steel line picks it up from there, no special connection and the rubber line is only there for the flexibility needed and as insurance that you would not have a steel line rattling against the steel framework within your A pillar.

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Its just a steel line that comes off your vacuum tank, runs thru the firewall, over behind the left kick panel area and then a rubber tube that is simply slid over the steel line picks it up from there, no special connection and the rubber line is only there for the flexibility needed and as insurance that you would not have a steel line rattling against the steel framework within your A pillar.

I checked my left pillar and found small notch at the top and an oval opening near the bottom of the dash board. This where the copper tube was routed.

Better yet I found some of those old photos taken in the 70's showing the wiper and tube routing. Note the flat surface is inverted on the bottom so the tube exits on the left of the wiper motor. This proves to document your project well. It pays off in the end.

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Edited by stakeside
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Can anyone tell me if the contol levers at the steering wheel of a 29' DA6 Passenger Coupe would work on my 30' DA124 ? Can I simply remove them from the coupe in order to put them in the truck column ? Are they interchangable at all ...

I have an opportunity to get the steering column today later this evening but I wanted to make sure the levers themselves will work, if not, then I don't want to remove them from the frame if someone else can better use them later.

The parts don't look the same according to the illustrations and the parts numbers are not a match from what I can find in the listings so I doubt very seriously it will work but just wanted to see what you all thought.

Here is what mine look like

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The 29' Coupe

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Any help is appreciated

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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I cant say with certainty that there is nothing interchangeable between the two but the DA set-up is completely different in appearance from what I am assuming is your truck set-up pictured above. You can see the differences yourself between the diagrams you posted above.

I need a set of levers if they become avail.

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I cant say with certainty that there is nothing interchangeable between the two but the DA set-up is completely different in appearance from what I am assuming is your truck set-up pictured above. You can see the differences yourself between the diagrams you posted above.

I need a set of levers if they become avail.

Yeah it looks completely different thats what I was afraid of.. but I just didn't know if I could use just the levers themselves ..

I'll let you know if anything becomes available

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I have no experience with this at all.

My assumption was, I could just slide the levers themselves out of the Coupe column and place them into the Truck column but not sure if parts like the steering worm adjustment screw would work on the coupe levers because the slot is in a different place , just as a for instance. ..

also the length is the obvious concern but I have no idea how they connect at the base and it's hard to tell when comparing the illustrations.

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The levers are cast with the ring that fits down into the wheel, if the wheels are different ( I would guess they are ) than then set-up will prob. not work. Be very careful with levers, same material as your wiper motor housing.

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Ok, that settles it for me, I don't even want to attempt to make it work, obviously too many differences...

I'll let you know if they become available. Suppose to meet up with Wyobob later today, he did show interest in the steering column as well so I'll let you know where we land on the deal.

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If buy used be sure and check if the horn wire can be removed from smallest tube. My truck had a steel clad wire that was rusted in the tube. I had to replace the small tube and It had an attachment washer welded to it. Used a brake line tube and braised on the washer.

I believe you have two levers on yours and mine has three levers: spark, throttle and lights.

Edited by stakeside (see edit history)
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If buy used be sure and check if the horn wire can be removed from smallest tube. My truck had a steel clad wire that was rusted in the tube. I had to replace the small tube and It had an attachment washer welded to it. Used a brake line tube and braised on the washer.

I believe you have two levers on yours and mine has three levers: spark, throttle and lights.

I have never heard of a steel clad wire running down the tube, only the cloth covered wire, I wonder if that was original for the truck, I will have to see if I can find a picture again of your levers, I guess I missed there being 3, sounds like an interesting set-up

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HI guys, When I restored the steering box and colum on my 2249 Senior 6 the wire for the horn was also armoured only the armouring was in aluminium not steel. Ron

Both trucks S114xxx and S115xxx had steel clad or armoured wire through out. I have replaced as original with armoured wire. The levers for both trucks are: toplever lights, left lever throttle, and right lever spark.

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Thanks Sherman for that second pic. ..

Man, I have so far to go and only know so little ..

Sherman, how long have you been at it with your truck ? I'm thinking mine is at least a 15-20 year project with the way I want to finish her in the end..

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I work in Plant City, I will have to check it out. Looks a little rough for the asking price but should be neat to go and see anyway, thanks

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If you do let me know if the running boards are steel diamond plate the unique offset pattern that is time period correct or smooth with rubber and metal edging. A measurement would be icing on the cake since I've never seen another truck to date with these long running boards (I can tell you these are rare). The dimensions on my Panel running boards are 57"x 9" if I recall correctly. Just curious to see how close the 29 would have been.

Also very curious about what kind of carb is on it if it's the 6 cylinder, serial number and the usual stuff you know we are jonesing for.... If you would please.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Thanks Sherman for that second pic. ..

Man, I have so far to go and only know so little ..

Sherman, how long have you been at it with your truck ? I'm thinking mine is at least a 15-20 year project with the way I want to finish her in the end..

Purchased my truck in 70's and started working on it after I retired 7 years ago. I did restore the frame, running gear, and engine about 20 years ago. I just kept at it.

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I need a set of levers if they become avail.

Well, I got to busy yesterday so I didn't make it to meet with Wyobob and the owner of the parts car, but Bob emailed me late last night and said the steering column was sawed in half so wouldn't have done anyone any good... unfortunately. Sounds like he was able to salvage some wheels and axles though so we saved what we could. It was the same owner who sold me the DA6, tranny, bumper etc...

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Jason, is this the truck ? Looks to be the same truck

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That truck is worth his price but I would offer around $2300 to see if he budges. IMO thats a solid starter worth up to around $2800-$3200

Hey, I say if Jason doesn't purchase it we all pull our resources together for a board restore ;)

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Well, I got to busy yesterday so I didn't make it to meet with Wyobob and the owner of the parts car, but Bob emailed me late last night and said the steering column was sawed in half so wouldn't have done anyone any good... unfortunately. Sounds like he was able to salvage some wheels and axles though so we saved what we could. It was the same owner who sold me the DA6, tranny, bumper etc...

The column being sawed in half has nothing to do with the levers unless I am misunderstanding

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Jason, is this the truck ? Looks to be the same truck

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That truck is worth his price but I would offer around $2300 to see if he budges. IMO thats a solid starter worth up to around $2800-$3200

Hey, I say if Jason doesn't purchase it we all pull our resources together for a board restore ;)

I called the guy, left message, so far no call back, I see about 800 dollars tops in that truck, if the original engine is missing I see a parts truck, clearly the wood is gone/rotten, looks like major rust out issues as well. I will try and call again a bit later

Either way I am not interested, I cannot finish the projects I have at this point, I would go and look just to learn something new

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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The column being sawed in half has nothing to do with the levers unless I am misunderstanding

I'd suggest sending Wyobob a message then. He may be able to help.

As for the truck, I was just razzin you about purchasing it. And the price ? remind me not to call you if I ever do decide to sell... you drive a hard bargain.

EDIT: we do appreciate any info you can tell us about it if you can

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Called back, guy said he brought it down to Miami and someone gave him 2500 for it, by now its prob has 24 inch rims and is scraping speed bumps knowing Miamis diverse ethnicity

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Called back, guy said he brought it down to Miami and someone gave him 2500 for it, by now its prob has 24 inch rims and is scraping speed bumps knowing Miamis diverse ethnicity

As they say "SOLD WELL". A happy seller I am sure at that price.

Hope someone brings it back to original.

Still wondering if anyone has used the "Hollander Parts Book"? I used it in the pass and it has a lot of interchange of part by different vehicles. It is availiable at Faxon Books. I should get mine in the mail monday, and will keep you informed.

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As they say "SOLD WELL". A happy seller I am sure at that price.

Hope someone brings it back to original.

Still wondering if anyone has used the "Hollander Parts Book"? I used it in the pass and it has a lot of interchange of part by different vehicles. It is availiable at Faxon Books. I should get mine in the mail monday, and will keep you informed.

Wow, I must have really overpaid for my truck then. I'm going to take that as an encouraging sign :)

Let me know how the Hollander works out, I haven't purchased one yet cause I was hoping to see some feedback one way or the other since I haven't found much discussion about it in my searching. I am curious to see how complete and correct they are though.

It's always good to get something in the mail. Yesterday the spare tire carrier and the front license plate bracket come in the mail from the parts truck in Wisconsin. Happy.., happy, happy...

Also found a correct tail light assembly that should be arriving mid week, just need to hunt down a tail light bracket now. Next week I'm going to try and secure some better instrument gauges. . the list is getting shorter slowly but surely.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Thats good Sherman... let us know how it holds once you get it hooked up. I think I'm a ways from that stage but always curious to learn what works and what doesn't.

I don't know if you noticed but the one I have has some rust pitting on the oval shaped cover plates, I was thinking of using other covers from a donor vac I have that still has a nice finish but I'd have to drill the holes needed to make it work.

Anyone ever tried switching covers on a vac before , drilling for holes that would be needed (see photo below) ? If the covers are the same size will it work or would I need the exact same pieces from an exact donor ?

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I mounted my wiper. The wiper is inverted as shown in my previous post.

Extra hose required to facilitate window open and close. My repair seems to hold well.

I noticed the wiper motor in my Sacramento Vintage Ford parts book. Price was $245. They also have Tico repair kits and NOS ID plates.

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