new brakes---total dispointment 55' buick special

[avgwarhawk]

I still think contact area is the problem. Do this^^^^.

Honestly, like Robert with his 52, he did everything from bleeding, rebuilding, re-lining, cussing, swearing and generally PO'd over the lack of stopping performance. Eventually Roberts shoes settled in(cutting their teeth as it were) and presumably a majority of the shoe was actually providing heat friction which is how brakes work. If more of the shoe is making contact the better performance the brakes will demonstrate. Pull the drum and take a look of just how much of the shoe is making contact with the drum. If very little making contact then some sanding to the curve of the drum is necessary I would think. Sometimes one gets lucky and the shoes settle in on their own in a short time.

I would like to see a picture of the shoe face for interest sake.

[60FlatTop]

You are getting it! "I cannot believe in the 50's when a person replaced their brakes it was that dangerous." Just imagine a whole production line coming out and not being able to stop. It didn't happen.

Something is wrong.

If I had it here I would raise the wheels off the ground. I would put a socket and breaker bar on one bolt for each wheel and have someone apply the brakes. With a 3 foot extension on the breaker bar I would try to turn each wheel. If they all lock up with good pedal pressure I would have them easy off a little and see it anything is different.

Next the drums would come off. Buicks had some variables to check. The lining thickness can be 3/16 or 1/4. Make sure you have it right. If you need 1/4 and have 3/16 you could have trouble.

If you bought replacement shoes there are two types, high center and low center. This is the semicircle cutout at the anchor pin. Confirm you have the correct shoes for your car.

If all that is right take the brake hoses off and run a piece of #10 wire through them to be sure they are open. Then check the drilling in the ports of the wheel cylinders and master cylinder to confirm they were drilled out and clear.

This advice comes from me and my friends at Rochester Clutch and Brake Rochester Clutch + Brake Company

Bernie

[avgwarhawk]

Just imagine a whole production line coming out and not being able to stop. It didn't happen.

Something is wrong.

The production line was not using re-lined shoes and well worn drums! Shoes were new and at proper thickness. I think your suggestion to test each wheel while the tire is off the ground is good advise.

[Guest btate]

All parts are either new or re built. I took the old shoes and drum to a fellow who is a legend for re manuf. Brake shoes and has been doing it for 50 yrs. He riveted and baked on new shoes and turned the drums. I told him I did not want hard shoes and I hope he listened. The master cylinder was re built, new wheel cylinder's, new hoses, new springs, new stainless steel lines. I noticed my mechanic did not use the small springs or the pins or washer lock caps.

[Guest btate]

Which anchor pin hole should I have high center or low center? It is possible someone replaced with wrong shoes long ago. Actually my brakes are about the same before I rebuilt them.

[Guest shadetree77]

Keep driving it and adjusting the shoes man. This thread is bringing back a lot of bad memories as Chris mentioned above. I drove mine around 60-70(if I remember correctly)miles before my shoes settled in. I drove it to a car show about 30 miles away one day with barely any brakes. I had maybe a 1/4 pedal. Stayed at the show all day then when I got in her to go home, I had a full pedal and great brakes! The sanding, like Mike said, will probably quicken this process but driving it should work. Be careful out there!

[60FlatTop]

I am assuming you checked the brakes with a breaker bar and didn't feel anything that would warrant investigation of any single wheel or axle.

With the drums off a the shoes seated against their stops, the arch should be concentric with the diameter of the backing plate. Some brake shoe pins are adjustable on a cam to set that relationship. That would be the place to check that the wrong shoes were not relined.

Did you check the thickness of the new linings to see if they are 3/16" or 1/4". The reliner should have a reference. I would ask him the age of the lining material. Even brake shoes have some flexibility under pressure to conform to the drum. If the material is 50 years old it my have out-gassed some volatiles and become harder than when new. Be careful about legends.

I would also get the inside diameter of the drums checked. There is a maximum they can be turned and going beyond will affect braking.

If I bought all new parts and the installer decided not to use them all. I would want a pretty good explanation of why old parts were reinstalled and what I was expected to do with the new ones. If the quality is inferior the supplier should be notified, same if they didn't fit.

The trouble you are in does not lend itself to forum diagnosis. You need a mechanic. Look for help finding one through your local Buick Club chapter.

Here's one thing to remember. There is a difference between a nurse and a mechanic. A mechanic fixes stuff and sends you home just like new. A nurse sends you home and says you will get better.

Bernie

[buick5563]

Sometimes those new shoes come with different size pins and extra washers, so that would be the least of my worries.

I don't believe that the pins can be put in the wrong way....and I've tried .

[buick5563]

The production line was not using re-lined shoes and well worn drums! Shoes were new and at proper thickness.

Exactly.

They also had asbestos in 'em!!!

yum.

[60FlatTop]

Some days you are a hero, some days not so much:

Edited March 21, 2013 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)