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New Hup Model 20 Owner


1912Minerva

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Hello Hupmobile fans,

I have just purchased a 1911 Hupmobile Model 20. It has all of the hard restoration work done and only needs a few items to finish it off. Things I need are: hubcaps x 4, linkage from throttle to oil dripper control, brake rods & clevis, fuel cap, upper diff plug. Has anyone got any of these parts that they would be prepared to sell?

My car has a torpedo body which I believe is fairly rare - are there any other Model 20 torpedo owners out there? Have attached a pic.

I am located in Northern NSW, Australia.

Regards,

Andrew.

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Nice car! Yes, there are a few other such bodies extant, but it and the coupe bodies are by far the hardest to find.

Unfortunately I don't have any of the parts mentioned available for sale. I believe hubcaps and fuel cap might be available from C.A.R.S. in California, reproductions. The plug for transmission is just a square head plug, you should be able to buy that at a hardware store. You'll probably have to fabricate the linkages.

Does your car have the original Breeze carb on it? If so, send me an email address and I'll send a copy of the 30+ page manual for it.

Enjoy!

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Hi Andrew Nice to have another ANZAC on board . The Fuel cap is available from CARS and maybe the hub caps . I suspect you will need to make the rest but not that complicated to do. You would be wise to contact Edgar Bowen who lives in Queensland and seems to have an encyclopedic knowledge of Model 20s . He can be contacted via the post he made to my recent thread on my Hupps engine problems -I hope yours has been restored better than mine was!!

Surprisingly a large number of early Hupps have survived down under. I know that in 1910 200 were imported into New Zealand alone . My Great Grandfather even had one (unfortunately I don't believe it's my one).

All the best mate - Karl

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Thanks for the replies David and Karl, I'm looking forward to getting this little car sorted. David, the car is fitted with a Tillotson carburetor (Model 75 - I think - it is hard to make out the stamping on the lid of the float chamber) which I guess is not original but I read on this forum that the original Breeze carbys are rarer than Model 20 Hups. So thanks anyway for the offer of the Breeze manual. Does anyone else run a Tillotson on their Model 20?

Does CARS have a website? I tried to google it but with that name, I didn't have much luck!

Karl - the first car I ever drove (when I was 10) was a Hup 20 torpedo!

Regards to all,

Andrew.

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Here's the link to their site:

Classic Autopart Reproduction Service - Brass Era, Antique and Horseless Carriage Auto Parts

Yes, the Breeze carbs are a little hard to come by. The Model 20 had an intake manifold shaped like a "J", and the carb was made to fit into the bottom of the J. I'm not aware that they ever switched to a Tillotson.

If a Breeze is correct for you car, and you ever REALLY want one, I have a spare sitting on one of my parts shelves.

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My car is fitted with a Model T carb (Holley NH) which seems to work fine . I have the correct carb and manifold in storage but will need to restore the carb prior to use . The previous owner of my car told me that Breeze carbs are rare because they were NBG ( No Bloody Good) and got changed to something that worked better fairly rapidly. None the less I do know of a few owners who use the Breeze and really like it. Karl

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I run an original Breeze on my car and find it works fine. You have to fiddle with it a bit when starting and adjusting for running, but isn't that part of the fun?

I don't believe they were NBG, as the car sold at a record pace for the time, and the company stayed in business well past many competitors!

Are some later carbs better? Well, sure, but again, if you want to experience what early motorists experienced, keep it original and learn how things worked when they weren't easy or convenient.

Crap, sorry, I'll get off the soap box, it seems to stand in my way on a lot of posts....

Whatever carb, drive and have fun...

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I run an original Breeze on my car and find it works fine. You have to fiddle with it a bit when starting and adjusting for running, but isn't that part of the fun?

I don't believe they were NBG, as the car sold at a record pace for the time, and the company stayed in business well past many competitors!

Are some later carbs better? Well, sure, but again, if you want to experience what early motorists experienced, keep it original and learn how things worked when they weren't easy or convenient.

Crap, sorry, I'll get off the soap box, it seems to stand in my way on a lot of posts....

Whatever carb, drive and have fun...

David Don't worry about your soap box I agree with you regards originality. I located my Breeze (and the appropriate manifold) with great difficulty and no small expense and once I've worked it over I will install it. The reasons I have not tackled it yet is my preliminary inspection suggests it might be pretty worn out and it might be cheaper for me to start with a better core . All my other cars are original down to original tool kits and owners manuals However it remains a fact that the number of early Hupmobiles out there (and as you point out there are lots because they sold well) vastly exceeds the number of Breeze Carbs in circulation which suggests that previous owners have removed and discarded them for some reason. Conversely most early Model Ts (including my 1913) are running original carbs. I suspect the reason is not so much to do with performance but servicability of the carb. As far as I can work out Breeze disappeared some time in the teens making it hard to get parts to service their carbs . With the Model T you have always been able to get carb parts right up to now 100+ years later -Karl

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I certainly didn't mean to start any arguments about the relative merits of different carby's!

On another matter, what type of lubricants to you guys run in your Hups? And how does the oiling system work? Prior to my first attempt to start the motor (since it was rebuilt - it was never started) what do I need to do.

Thanks to all for you advice so far - what did people do before forums??

Have included a pic of my carby plus another shot of my car plus a picture from an original catalogue for those interested in the body style.

Cheers,

Andrew.

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post-91280-143141764993_thumb.jpg

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Didn't mean it to sound like an argument! Just discussions...

The Hupp has a drip oiling system for the engine. The reservoir on the driver's (right) side of engine. I run straight 30 weight non-detergent. It's a pass-through system, there are two drain cocks on the bottom of the engine, each has a standpipe, you drain until no more oil comes out and it's at the correct level. Unless your reservoir drip valves hold better than mine, this is done for each run of car.

The sight glass on reservoir shows that you have oil in it. The two drips are visible through glass tubes, I can remember the number of recommended drips per minute, someone here will chime in. Do you have an owner manual for the car?

For trans and rear end, I use some of the lube that minimizes leaks, it's available at various old car suppliers...or talk to your local lube dealer.

Really neat body style.....the Model 20 was made in runabout (with and without doors), torpedo, touring, and coupe, over the years 1909 to 1911.......a good friend says the touring is the best to have, as that gives you two more people to help push!!

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Guest Edgar Bowen

Karl, don't believe anyone who tells you that Breeze carbys are no good. They are excellent. It is just that the old mechanics had no idea how to adjust them and neither do most owners today. The float must be adjusted so that the fuel level is ¼" from the top of the float chamber. The air valve has two springs, a weak one and a strong one. They are wonderfully simple though quite sensitive to different fuel qualities. What I did find out the hard way was the importance of fitting air filters because being low down they pick up dust from the front wheel, or the car in front.

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Guest Edgar Bowen

I use 20-50 multigrade oil in the engine and gearbox but I have an oil seal on the back of the gearbox. 16 drops per minute at an idling speed seems satisfactory. I change the oil every 10 hours of driving and that is perfect for protecting the bearings and keeping the engine clean inside.

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