Teves Anti Lock Brake System

[MarkV]

So, as I am looking at Reattas what should I look for in regards to the Teves system? Is there a way to replace it with a more typical brake system? Where can I find replacement parts? I have read many horror stories about the ABS on those early systems!

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Easiest solution: Find a 91.

If you are like me and think the CRT makes the Reatta then the following may be what you are looking for.

First thing to do is become aquainted with the brake test and what the results of it mean. If the system passes with flying colors then flush the system prior to putting it on the road and ensure you flush it every 1-2 years. This will eliminate almost all of the issues that can creep up.

On to replacing it:

I have replaced my system with a complete 91 ABS system. The only downside I have from doing it is the ABS light stays on on my dash. I live with it and if it was a issue for me I would just pull the bulb.

Many have taken the easy way of just using a 91 non-ABS system. This route is pretty straight forward and can be completed in less than a Saturday drinking beer and turning a wrench.

[Barney Eaton]

At the time of its production, the Teves system was state of the art. Remember this was around 1985 when it first appeared and ABS was a high cost option. By 1991 (at GM) there were other ABS choices and I am sure GM would have continued to use the Teves system except for its cost. Bosch was the new choice because it was cheaper and simpler or vica versa.

Many auto manufactures around the world used the Teves system on their premium cars. Even today, there is rarely a master cylinder failure and the '88's are now 25 years old.

One potential explination is that in Europe, the owners manuals tell you to change the brake fluid every 2 year or XX,XXX miles. Even today in the US, owners manuals have no reference to changing brake fluid. What does this have to do with the Teves system, it needs to be on a maintenence schedule, flush the fluid, and run test that check the system.

The horror stories are from owners that only know you push on the brake pedal and the car stops.......that is the extent of their brake knowledge.

Anyone that has hydraulic experience knows that hydraulic systems demand clean fluid. Moisture in brake fluid corrodes alloy metals and rust ferrous metals. This corrosion and rust is floating in your brake fluid and that damages seals, o ring, and wears bearing surfaces.

Flush the system and do the brake tests.

x

[Rawja]

The Teves system is fine. Yes, it is sensitive to neglect, but the "horror stories" are usually from one or both of the following:

People who ignored the signs of a compromised system, ignored the warning lights and were "surprised" by brake failure.

People who were taken to the cleaners getting work done on the system by entities that were crooks and/or ignorant of the proper diagnostic procedures.

Parts are not difficult to source and are not expensive, certainly when compared to changing over to a completely different system.

Do a search here on brake problems and you'll see how competent this forum is at remote diagnosis. You'll find thread after thread of inexpensive DIY repair, often after the original poster had received estimates from mechanics or dealerships for thousands of dollars.

[wws944]

So, as I am looking at Reattas what should I look for in regards to the Teves system? Is there a way to replace it with a more typical brake system? Where can I find replacement parts? I have read many horror stories about the ABS on those early systems!

As Daniel writes, if you really want to avoid it, restrict your search to '91s.

If you look at a car that has either the red and/or yellow warning lights on all the time, consider it a negotiating point. However the system is not as complex as some would make it out to be. And by now, there is quite a bit of experience with it. Most find it easier to simply replace the couple of wear items which usually go bad over time and usage, rather than trash the whole system and start over.

Basically there is the power boost side and the ABS side. Most common problem on the power boost side is either the accumulator or the pressure switch. Both available new and easy DIY to replace. On the ABS side, the sensor leads, in particular the front ones, can crack and deteriorate from heat and usage. Also an easy DIY, though the sensors are getting more expensive than they should be. (Check out Ronnies site for current Amazon pricing on these parts.)

Regardless of which year, it is probably safe to assume the brakes have not been bled for a very long time and should be done. The Teves bleeding procedure is a bit different than most systems because you can use the built-in pump to bleed the rear lines. The procedure for the front lines is more conventional. And of course, if considering a 'rust belt' car, check the lines themselves for corrosion.

[Jim]

As several others have mentioned the system is pretty good but you need to always have good clean fluid in the system.

Go out on the street with no one around and do a simulated panic stop from about 20 MPH. If the car stops straight ahead without a hard pedal or pulling to one side or the other your system is in good condition.

If the brake fluid has not been changed in the last few years, change it and you should not have any problems.

I normally have in stock good systems and the two of the three parts that go bad. These are the pressure switches, the pumps and the accumulators. I have good pressure switches, and pumps but get a new accumulator from Ronnies site.

You can do some tests to determine if you need an accumulator.

Here is the instructions on how to change the fluid.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be

changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.

2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal

should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600

pounds of pressure in the accumulator.

3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.

4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.

5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional

method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.

6. To bleed the rear brakes

A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize

B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.

C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear

fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)

When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.