propeller shaft slip joint locknut removal. How?

[64riviera]

Since I had to take the propeller shaft out of the car because two of the universal joints were really bad, I also ordered a new bearing for the center support.

But to get to that bearing I have to loosen that lock nut on the slip joint. Any ideas how to loosen this nut? I mean, there is no room to put a wrench on it. Or is there some kind of special tool for it? :confused:

[JZRIV]

Though I don't make a habit of using channel locks on nuts, I have always used them on these and never had a problem as usually they aren't that tight. If your support bearing housing has not been replaced you should consider doing that while you have it apart. Originals are notorious for failing because the rubber deteriorates from age and stress.

Note the nut on the 66 is aluminum and can be dmaged easily but I am not sure if the 64s are aluminum. From the pic it looks aluminum. If it seems really tight a slight amount of heat and penetrating oil applied will help loosen it but not too much heat because you will damage the rubber grease seal under the nut.

Edited February 3, 2013 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[64riviera]

Hi Jason.

Tried this already but seems the nut is to tight. Going to try again with some penetrating oil and, if this doesn't do it, some gentle heating.

Thought there would be an easier / other way to loosen it. Gonna give it a try tomorrow.

What about the universal joints, in the manual they talk about using a spider press to press the joint out. That spider thing they mentioned, is something I don't have. I know that I replaced them once on another axle (can't recal what car it was) but I just pressed on top of one side of the universal joint (the thing they call guide in the picture), took the guide out on the other side, turned the axle, and pressed the other on out the same way.

This works if the guides are straight and don't have a guide with a flattened top that you can only press in until the top of the guide touches with the yoke. (hope you get what I'm trying to describe.)

Attached a picture of the spider press and the press I'm using. Any idea if the method I described would work with the original universal joints.

[60FlatTop]

I replaced all five u-joints in my car right before the 1981 Buick Nationals and the drive to Sandusky, Ohio. (Anyone remember arriving at the show field and watching the roller coaster riders being walked down from the peak?)

I had a hell of a time getting room to remove the crosses of the joints. They wouldn't push the caps far enough. We took a cutting torch and cut the crosses out, then knocked out the caps, and smoothly put it together. A fire wrench will do it every time.

On the retaining nut, I would press a flat nosed punch against the flats and give it sharp raps with a light hammer, maybe 4 oz., just keep rapping and you will be able to spin it off with your fingers.

Bernie

[JZRIV]

Hi Jason.

Tried this already but seems the nut is to tight. Going to try again with some penetrating oil and, if this doesn't do it, some gentle heating.

Thought there would be an easier / other way to loosen it. Gonna give it a try tomorrow.

What about the universal joints, in the manual they talk about using a spider press to press the joint out. That spider thing they mentioned, is something I don't have. I know that I replaced them once on another axle (can't recal what car it was) but I just pressed on top of one side of the universal joint (the thing they call guide in the picture), took the guide out on the other side, turned the axle, and pressed the other on out the same way.

This works if the guides are straight and don't have a guide with a flattened top that you can only press in until the top of the guide touches with the yoke. (hope you get what I'm trying to describe.)

Attached a picture of the spider press and the press I'm using. Any idea if the method I described would work with the original universal joints.

Are you replacing one of the CV joints or the regular joints at the ends? I have used the torch method to burn the centers out and sometimes its easier than risking damage if you don't have the right tools to press them out. Drawback with torching is it makes a potential dangerous situation as the grease starts melting in a stinking splattery mess. Proper protection is a must. It does speed up the process though!

I never used the special tools they show but improvise using a large vise as a press and various round spacers and sleeves. Sometimes they can be really tight to pop loose so you want to proceed slow with caution so the yokes aren't damaged. Soak with penetrating oil and heat the ends of the yokes before pressing.

[64riviera]

Finally got the locknut loose. Took me some penetrating oil, a lot of tappin it with a punch, some minor cursing and it came loose. Don't know which of these three ingredients did the trick.

About the joints, I want to change all of them. I've got the new ones so the problem is getting te old ones out.

I've got a 12.000 pound press that should do the trick, hopefully without damaging the yokes. Heating the yokes is a good tip.

Since I don't have a torch I have to get it done, at least try to, with the press.

Something for the next weekend.

[60FlatTop]

Using a press, the caps will go just so far and not allow you to swivel the center cross out. That does allow the grease seals to open and make the torching a little easier.

If you look back and see the torch user's; one (me) lives in New York between Buffalo and Rochester and the other is "near Pittsburgh" we ain't talkin city here. The torch was bought for fixing the drag or haywagon, maybe adjusting a three point hitch.

Bernie

[JZRIV]

Finally got the locknut loose. Took me some penetrating oil, a lot of tappin it with a punch, some minor cursing and it came loose. Don't know which of these three ingredients did the trick.

About the joints, I want to change all of them. I've got the new ones so the problem is getting te old ones out.

I've got a 12.000 pound press that should do the trick, hopefully without damaging the yokes. Heating the yokes is a good tip.

Since I don't have a torch I have to get it done, at least try to, with the press.

Something for the next weekend.

I never replace joints on the Riv shafts unless they are bad......especially the CV joints. Actually, of all the Rivs I've owned in 30 years I've never had to replace a CV joint. My experience has been if the original joints had any amount of regular lubrication they will last almost indefinitely. Routine replacement is a can of worms you don't want to open unless you are very experienced doing U joints IMO.

Its not uncommon for folks to have vibration issues after replacing all the joints...... but if the work is done by a skilled person its no problem. Just say'in those CV joints are a bit more challenging for the average person.

Yes Bernie I am far from the city where we pee off the porch and the dog runs free. Haha. I got my Oxy/Acetylene torch set when I was 17 and it has been at the top of my most valued tools for 33 years! Bailed me and friends out countless times.

Edited February 4, 2013 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[64riviera]

Finally got to get working on the CV joints. What are those things difficult to remove, but you all warned me about this and you where right. Decided to only change the ones that were bad. Putting the new ones in is a piece of cake.

Build everything back together, but then another "problem" showed up.

I started a new thread on that one but thanks for your help with this problem and feel free to share your thoughts about the other problem.