Guest buckfarmer Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Well it has been a while since I've had time to work on the buick, but its time to get started again. I am ready to start putting the sheet steel back on the body. Just need to decide what finish to use, if any on the wood body. Anyone have any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 The woodwork was originally painted black in my car, so I went with a good polyurethane to act as a sealer. I scuffed that to give it some tooth and followed with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin in rattle cans for color. It was probably overkill, but it seemed to work out fine. I believe I had around $80 or so into the job.Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 I wonder what the consensus would be for first treating the raw wood with something like Boracare® against a possible infestation of powder post beetles? The destructive powder post beetle or I think it's their larva love to eat dry wood. They can easily destroy wood and I know, first hand, they really like ash, red oak and pine. If you think you might want to use this, make certain that it is the first thing you apply to the wood as it will not penetrate through an exisiting finish. I recall that the stuff isn't particularly toxic to humans but it is effective in the wood forever (ok, a very long time). I wish I had done this to my rewooding efforts but when I learned of the problem, it was too late - I had already finished the wood.As for the final topcoat finish, I'd recommend two coats of polyurethane. Don't use any sanding sealer or primer and don't thin the polyurethane. Use either water based or oil based poly; I used water based because I thought it penetrated better but I have since been told that it doesn't matter. I suppose that you can paint the urethane if you want a different color. One last thought, be sure to not use polyurethane on the wood surfaces that are to be glued together, it greatly reduces the bond strength.Good topic, I'm interested in hearing from others on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Buickfarmer, It looks like you did a very nice job on your wood. I am sure you used kiln dried wood, but when moisture from the changing seasons gets to it, it will not stay the same size or shape. I suggest you treat all the wood with linseed oil before sealing it. Then use a linseed oil based sealer to help keep the wood from drying out. Color doesn't really matter, except for those few parts that will be visable after the sheet metal goes on.My $0.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenugent Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 i agree with the oilbased products-for better penetrating and bonding(sand between coats).t.nugent roa 12969-retiered union painter-33 years.good luck-nice looking work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 West System, it's what seals wood and you never have to worry about it again.....Epoxy by the Leading Epoxy Manufacturer | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richmond Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi could you answer some things for me about the woodwork? email easternturkeycall@hotmail.com. Thank you Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now