6 Volt North East Key Coil

[Guest 1930]

Yeah so does Stakeside lol

When I bought it off the big board it only had one view when I completed my transaction. Good timing and luck I guess...

Thanks for that coil scan and info, I'll pass it onto my key guy. He told me he's got some old original literature for Briggs and Stratton that cover Dodge Brothers back to the clum days also. How extensively I don't know yet, just going to have to work it out to see where this leads.

When he told me about the original DB he mentioned that he had 2 or 3 of them. My next hope is I can pry one of those from his possesion if they are copies of the same thing. Who knows, I may be successful.

I never did see this post, I would VERY much like to have a copy of this as well, I would promise not to copy or re-produce this as I know that it may hurt his business if that helps gain a copy, primarily interested in D.B/GB 28-32 but would love to have anything earlier/later.

If he does not want to part with a copy than I would still like his contact info so that ( If he can show me/prove to me what is correct ) I can have some other keys made up with the correct heads

If you think of it ask him for a better explanation of JL/IM/C numbers ect.

The guy that helped me with my keys within the past 5-6 years ago was older, 80 plus, he is dead now, he explained to me ( sorta ) what all this meant, how it all worked together.

Shown below are the keys that work the ignition on my 29/30 DA car. I cannot remember if this key was original for my ignition, I cannot remember if I have ever taken the lock cylinder out of my ignition. I may fuddle around with this later because I am curious.

Edited January 27, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174250[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174251[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174252[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174253[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174254[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174255[/ATTACH]

If possible ( no rush ) I would like to have a copy ( clear scan ) of the entire page/pages that mention ripping out old sheets and inserting new ones, color scan/copy preferably. I would like to insert this into some of my parts books so I can remember the explanation given in the future. Thanks

My e-mail is jhason2@yahoo.com

I have started this topic here http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=740.0 and maybe you would like to see how it goes. Its worth joining this forum, nice people and Plymouth/Dodge have alot in common.

I believe ( maybe someone here will verify ) that Plymouth cars used the same N.E ignition coil assy up until at least the same time as D.B. 1930 vehicles.

Now that I think about that I am quite certain.

Edited January 27, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

Thanks George, I look forward to seeing what you had made. Thats great news !

Here's the pics from the interior of the cylinder. Boy this was harder to see with a magnifying glass than with the macro setting on my camera, shows up much better using the camera after I upload it.

Only numbers I could find inside (if it matters at this point) are 22000 and the N/E logo upside down with an underlined "A" and the number 4 next to it. These numbers were on the back side of the face plate as you turn the cylinder upside down at the very bottom of the cylinder. Very difficult to see...

I found no other numbers.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174597[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174598[/ATTACH]

Also if that is the only thing wrong with the assy ( that chunk missing ) than I am pretty sure I have a small box full of spare parts for these coils/ign assy so again, be gentle with what you have and keep me in mind before you toss ANYTHING out.

[30DodgePanel]

As I had mentioned before it will be found on the lock cylinder,

Anyway I could not remember exactly where it was either but if you look closely at the tip of the CYLINDER you will see the I.M number, in this case I.M 226. As you can see the keys do not match the the cylinder so yes this is a lock cylinder that I fuddled around with to make the keys I did have work. .

Thanks for that explanation now it makes sense..

As for the copy of key literature yes I can copy if do happen to gain possession.

Heres the scan you requested of the instruction to remove old and insert new pages I found at the front of one of the two 3/4 ton parts list books I've purchased.

[30DodgePanel]

Opposite page at the very opening I found some hand writing that I thought some may enjoy.

I did some research on some of these companies that someone wrote down years ago, hasn't really lead to anything yet but still interesting. To think of where this book has been and the person that owned this years ago who probably worked one many of these particular 3/4 ton Panels is very interesting.

Maybe a mechanic at one of the Dodge Brothers Approved Service Stations ?

[30DodgePanel]

Also if that is the only thing wrong with the assy ( that chunk missing ) than I am pretty sure I have a small box full of spare parts for these coils/ign assy so again, be gentle with what you have and keep me in mind before you toss ANYTHING out.

Will do, and yes that pot metal is more fragile than I realized. I'm sure the guys who I bought it off of with all the other parts from the 29 Coupe donor may have something to do with the crack in the pot metal. The way they were just chucking parts around the day I saved what I could was very disturbing to watch so I know they had no idea of the history and the rarity of what they were dismantling.

The parts I salvaged from them were a complete running DA engine and transmission along with key coil and all the correct North East electrical components, a very nice front chrome bumper with correct center medallion, and a nice clean original muffler with the rare outer crimping that matches the one I have for my truck that was rotted thru, and a N/E horn not pictured. $340 total for everything so I think I did ok. He started at $750 then down to $450 and I gave him $280 cash and a SM465 trans that I was going to put in my 68 Custom Camper on trade but the 465 can be found again for $50-60 that's why I say I paid $340 for it all.

Saved what I could and would have saved more if budget permitted. He was gonna try and sale the rest of the dash and instruments he wanted $100 for those remaining. I hadn't studied passenger cars at all but I seen he had the Budd plate on the engine firewall in the upper middle that he was keeping. I kept his contact if I or someone else needs to go back for more.

I'm not throwing ANYTHING out. As you can see, I'm accumulating as many parts as I can.

[Guest 1930]

The bumper was worth what you paid for everything in its condition, looks like parts came out of a nice car.

I forgot that you had no engine, I guess we need to re-visit that topic, I do not remember what you did need and I think back then I may have been guessing based on what little I knew. I think we can do a much better job now of covering all of that.

Edited January 27, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

I really was surprised they were chopping such a nice car, I guess because there was so little body work involved, who knows... The car came from Cali and the metal was very, very clean and rust free. I hate to admit it but they were doing an incredible job on the car and I wouldn't doubt that we see it on a cover of a magazine someday but it's still a shame they were doing this to an otherwise perfectly fine 5 window especially.

As for the parts that I needed, no need to revist just yet because I'm in pretty good shape (for now). I know the engine stamp location is in the wrong place on the 5 window donor but my plan is to use this good engine for now while I take my time and free up the seized 1 1/2 ton donor DA that's sitting in the truck now and simply convert the parts over that are time period correct. The reason I say that is because I have found that the correct carb for my application is a cross mounted Zenith and keep in mind the DA in the 3/4 -1 1/2 tons used the same cross mount carb that match the rear exhaust manifold pictured below. I realize not everything is correct but I'd like to get it going just to have fun with then over the years I'd like to slowly get ALL the original parts I need so it's correct in the end. The driveline won't be original but it will at least give an indication to others later down the road what the truck would have looked like when it rolled out on day one. My ultimate dream is to donate it to the Museum.

So the search for parts and confirmation will obiously be an ongoing journey for years and I'm in no rush. Just want it to be as close as possible in the end.

To get back on topic, this is why I am so persistant about solving this key issue. I truely want it to be as original as possible because we all know this may be the only 3/4 ton Panel E series DA that comes forward, we simply don't know and I wan't to give it as much respect that is due.

[Guest DodgeKCL]

Here's something from the Plymouth Master Parts List: IMPORTANT NOTICE Ignition Coil and Lock Assemblies are not sold as complete units. In most cases replacement of-'coil less the switch'- is all that is necessary. If the complete assembly is required it is necessary to order 'coil less switch' and 'switch' as separate items. Handling lock type coil and switch assembly service in this way reduces the cost to the car owner,enables dealers to keep down inventory investment and does not call for a new lock which in most cases could not take the same key as the old lock necessitating the use of two keys for the car,whereas originally lock set-up provides for one key fitting all locks-doors,ignition,spare tire etc. This was for the Delco Remy days of Plymouth. (They changed to Autolite in about 1935.) Does any of this clarify things?

[farrellg]

I can see the IM056 on the second picture of your original post. This is the key code for your tumbler. It is usually located on the outside case of the whole assembly. The place I used to make my keys was the "Key Men". www.key-men.com. They were great to work with and both sets of keys I had made were perfect.

[30DodgePanel]

KCL,

yes that does help clarify somethings. Thanks for adding that, I'll have to study some aspects of that just for my own studies, I just want to understand it more thoroughly for quick referencing in the future if needed.

George,

thanks for posting also. I looked for a phone number on his website but I can't find it. Does he have a contact phone # as well ? I'm kinda old school, I like to talk to them incase he has any questions for me in order to hopefully save us both some time. If not I'll just email him no biggy.

Jason,

I did some more digging into the number on the tip of the cylinder of the seized truck lock but it's not budging. I started with the seized one from the Truck just incase I break something since the pot metal housing is in worse condition on it than the Coupe coil in order just to see how it all comes apart. There are 3 pot metal rivots no screws like in the photo but nothing is freeing up. Still workin on it here and there but trying not to break anything. The key code on the Truck coil is IM 058 on the outside pot metal housing so it's very close to the IM 056 on the Coupe strangely enough. At this point I'm just trying to confirm the seized Truck coil has the matching IM 058 number on the inside and to see if it's salvagable. It's amazing how white the face plate is now once the dirt is gone. Always thought they were a duller Ivory color but I see that was just the dirt now.

Thank again you guys for your input, this is establishing a very solid foundation. Still missing all the documentary proof to solidify the correct key code verbages that were used during the pre 32 era specifically and how they designated the letter/numbering systems to each models and types of vehicles such as Coupes, Sedans, and all the different weight classes of Trucks, but we'll get there..... Very interesting

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

KCL,

yes that does help clarify somethings. Thanks for adding that, I'll have to study some aspects of that just for my own studies, I just want to understand it more thoroughly for quick referencing in the future if needed.

George,

thanks for posting also. I looked for a phone number on his website but I can't find it. Does he have a contact phone # as well ? I'm kinda old school, I like to talk to them incase he has any questions for me in order to hopefully save us both some time. If not I'll just email him no biggy.

Jason,

I did some more digging into the number on the tip of the cylinder of the seized truck lock but it's not budging. I started with the seized one from the Truck just incase I break something since the pot metal housing is in worse condition on it than the Coupe coil in order just to see how it all comes apart. There are 3 pot metal rivots no screws like in the photo but nothing is freeing up. Still workin on it here and there but trying not to break anything. The key code on the Truck coil is IM 058 on the outside pot metal housing so it's very close to the IM 056 on the Coupe strangely enough. At this point I'm just trying to confirm the seized Truck coil has the matching IM 058 number on the inside and to see if it's salvagable. It's amazing how white the face plate is now once the dirt is gone. Always thought they were a duller Ivory color but I see that was just the dirt now.

Thank again you guys for your input, this is establishing a very solid foundation. Still missing all the documentary proof to solidify the correct key code verbages that were used during the pre 32 era specifically and how they designated the letter/numbering systems to each models and types of vehicles such as Coupes, Sedans, and all the different weight classes of Trucks, but we'll get there..... Very interesting

If it were me than I would not remove the cylinder at this point, I do not have the number cast into any of my housings but what George said makes sense. Seems like you would only have to have the key cut at this point since the codes are prob. good.

If you do decide to continue, all you have to do is get those big fat rivets heads off and then knock the faceplate away and it will fall off.

I contacted the key guy that George recommended already ( states on his site, part time, no phone calls, e-mails only ) and asked him if he could tell me more concerning the I.M # and the J.L # as far as what they stood for and how specifically they were used. He responded back right away but he did not know.

You will see on his site that he recommends the hex shaped key as original style for ignition. I would still love to see a book myself.

Edited January 28, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Yeah the Truck coil tumbler is toast ! Never seen pot metal and metal cling to each other quite like that before.

Each layer of the tumbler came out in chunks with pot metal seized in amazing places IN BETWEEN THE LAYERS OF METAL to the tumbler and it just wouldn't break free, covered each spring like mud. Brutal sight to be honest. Very discouraging but I had to get there just out of curiousity and so I could put that question to rest in my mind plus I needed to see what parts from the truck coil I would be able to use.

Originally what I anticipated I guess....

So as you know we're just waiting for literary proof of the JL, C, and IM meanings and uses among others if the other key guy takes the time to answer it for me. Hopefully he knows. If he does I'll be sure to pass along his site.

Thanks for all the help

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

I really was surprised they were chopping such a nice car, I guess because there was so little body work involved, who knows... The car came from Cali and the metal was very, very clean and rust free. I hate to admit it but they were doing an incredible job on the car and I wouldn't doubt that we see it on a cover of a magazine someday but it's still a shame they were doing this to an otherwise perfectly fine 5 window especially.

As for the parts that I needed, no need to revist just yet because I'm in pretty good shape (for now). I know the engine stamp location is in the wrong place on the 5 window donor but my plan is to use this good engine for now while I take my time and free up the seized 1 1/2 ton donor DA that's sitting in the truck now and simply convert the parts over that are time period correct. The reason I say that is because I have found that the correct carb for my application is a cross mounted Zenith and keep in mind the DA in the 3/4 -1 1/2 tons used the same cross mount carb that match the rear exhaust manifold pictured below. I realize not everything is correct but I'd like to get it going just to have fun with then over the years I'd like to slowly get ALL the original parts I need so it's correct in the end. The driveline won't be original but it will at least give an indication to others later down the road what the truck would have looked like when it rolled out on day one. My ultimate dream is to donate it to the Museum.

So the search for parts and confirmation will obiously be an ongoing journey for years and I'm in no rush. Just want it to be as close as possible in the end.

To get back on topic, this is why I am so persistant about solving this key issue. I truely want it to be as original as possible because we all know this may be the only 3/4 ton Panel E series DA that comes forward, we simply don't know and I wan't to give it as much respect that is due.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174691[/ATTACH]

I do not understand what you mean by engine designation on the wrong side, I was not aware/do not think that the truck engines stamped the number in a different spot? Can you clarify where you think they should be and show me why you say it is this way?

Also just to clarify is this picture showing the correct manifold for your truck?

[30DodgePanel]

I do not understand what you mean by engine designation on the wrong side, I was not aware/do not think that the truck engines stamped the number in a different spot? Can you clarify where you think they should be and show me why you say it is this way?

Also just to clarify is this picture showing the correct manifold for your truck?

Yes, that photo is the correct engine type for my truck and the manifold is correct see photo taken from DB 3/4 ton trucks 4 and 6 cylinder dated first edition August 1929.

As for the engine stamp location on the 29 Coupe donor :

It is the H code but the number is located at the rear of the motor on the passenger side and not the front like on the truck engines that I've seen. If you need pics that'll have to wait because I can't get to the engine currently due to space issues. I'd have to move a few things and get the cherry picker out and turn it around because it's up against a wall right now and I doubt I can get my camera back in that tight space for the proper angle shot, but you know I'll try though...

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Anyone ever seen pot metal melt into each layer of a tumbler like this before ? Sorry for the bad pics. The second pic is a bit blurry but you can see how the pot just melted around it and the further down I went the harder and more dense it became.

From what I can tell only the face plate and chrome cover is salvagable and I'll make note of the IM number. Other than that, pretty much toast but at least I can switch the face plate like I originally hoped so that's a good thing.

Brutal

Anyone know what may have caused this ? I know it's all speculation but I'd like to see what you guys think. I'm guessing a short in the system but I have no idea.

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

I do not understand what you mean by engine designation on the wrong side, I was not aware/do not think that the truck engines stamped the number in a different spot? Can you clarify where you think they should be and show me why you say it is this way?

Just wanted to clarify with a couple of photos that I could round up.

The 1st pic is from my seized engine that is currently resting in the truck. The correct truck location as you know is passenger side in the front just below the manifold where the right arrow is pointing, the left arrow in the photo is simply to show where the number IS located on the Coupe donor.

The Pic on the right is just a sample photo of a 4 door DA sedan I pulled from the web. When you zoom in just below the arrow on the left in the 2nd photo you can barely make out the "H" in the sequence. Thats the same location the Coupe Donor engine has. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

[Guest 1930]

Just wanted to clarify with a couple of photos that I could round up.

The 1st pic is from my seized engine that is currently resting in the truck. The correct truck location as you know is passenger side in the front just below the manifold where the right arrow is pointing, the left arrow in the photo is simply to show where the number IS located on the Coupe donor.

The Pic on the right is just a sample photo of a 4 door DA sedan I pulled from the web. When you zoom in just below the arrow on the left in the 2nd photo you can barely make out the "H" in the sequence. Thats the same location the Coupe Donor engine has. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174805[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174806[/ATTACH]

Thats still a new one on me, I did not know that the truck engines were stamped at the front, thanks for the pics.

I would like to know if this was the norm for these. I think Victory six was like this ( maybe others )

[Guest 1930]

I would like to see cab controls and instruments dialogue to this picture if possible. I would like to understand better what I am looking at

Would be nice if that thread was over here, I just happened to stumble across it. I like the pictures and would like to see more!

Edited January 28, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

It's a constant learning process isn't it ...

The literature for the 3/4 ton Series E-DA has this statement at the beginning:

"Engine number - Stamped on the right side of the cylinder block, just below the forward exhaust port".

BUT

The literature specific for my 3/4 ton 4 and 6 cylinders dated August 1929 reads :

"Engine Serial number - Stamped on the right side of cylinder block near the rear".

So that must mean the location of the seized engine is incorrect for my application and that the motor may have came from an earlier E series DA ? (keep in mind my frame number is D231751 and the seized engine was just a donor that the previous owner put in the truck in order to gain a clear title from the California MVD)

Some trucks are marked by front port and some are marked at the rear port...

Now that's a twist I haven't seen before.

How about instruction or owners manuals for other weight class of trucks, anyone have any info they can share ?

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Just don't understand why there are two Dodge Brother sections because the information for the DB car and trucks are related in alot of cases. Maybe stakeside can request it be moved over here ?

Heres the instrument dialogue you wanted.

Edit: the book in post #19 is where this info came from. Specific for the earlier E series DA 120" wb

Edited January 28, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

It's a constant learning process isn't it ...

The literature for the 3/4 ton Series E-DA has this statement at the beginning:

"Engine number - Stamped on the right side of the cylinder block, just below the forward exhaust port".

BUT

The literature specific for my 3/4 ton 4 and 6 cylinders dated August 1929 reads :

"Engine Serial number - Stamped on the right side of cylinder block near the rear".

So that must mean the location of the seized engine is incorrect for my application and that the motor may have came from an earlier E series DA ? (keep in mind my frame number is D231751 and the seized engine was just a donor that the previous owner put in the truck in order to gain a clear title from the California MVD)

Some trucks are inarked by front port and some are marked at the rear port...

Now that's a twist I haven't seen before.

How about instruction or owners manuals for other weight class of trucks, anyone have any info they can share ?

I will have to re-read this and look into it, interesting, thanks, I do have some 2-3 ton stuff, I am not sure if I have owners manual though, I know I have them for 33 and up but not sure if I have earlier, will look.

Edited January 29, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

Just don't understand why there are two Dodge Brother sections because the information for the DB car and trucks are related in alot of cases. Maybe stakeside can request it be moved over here ?

Heres the instrument dialogue you wanted.

Edit: the book in post #19 is where this info came from. Specific for the earlier E series DA 120" wb

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174914[/ATTACH]

Thanks, I am not sure why either, these early trucks ( the earlier the more so ) are more related to the autos.

[Guest 1930]

# 26, can you do a better job of explaining, I have been wondering for a long time how these operated, isnt it a cable deal? What do they mean with operating and indicating levers?

[Guest 1930]

Ok so I take it this is not what your interior looks specifically like, I take it this would be stakeside interior? I am noticing and wondering why they show a different key/coil assy unlike what you are working with?

Strange that they put the carb control and manifold so far over as well.

I am trying now to figure out how to post images that I have saved that are in PDF

Edited January 29, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

# 26, can you do a better job of explaining, I have been wondering for a long time how these operated, isnt it a cable deal? What do they mean with operating and indicating levers?

Picking up on page 11 under Radiator shutters, continues on to page 12

[30DodgePanel]

Ok so I take it this is not what your interior looks specifically like, I take it this would be stakeside interior? I am noticing and wondering why they show a different key/coil assy unlike what you are working with?

Strange that they put the carb control and manifold so far over as well.

Thats correct .

Heres what my interior looks like.

My question has always been when did the exact change take place ?

By the way, here is the cross mount Zenith 114 1/2 that went in these trucks. According to the MPB page T-14-F the range for that carb application was 3/4 ton up to 1 1/2 tons showing a BEXW and a BAXW. Part #101 in the MPB page T-14-H. Amazingly I've been lucky enough to locate one and will rebuild it in the near future.

[30DodgePanel]

Sounds like stakeside better be good with his left hand lol...

wait, that didn't sound right

[Guest 1930]

Well drats, wont let me, it looks like though I guess I may have the book that you are showing. Still will keep trying though just to verify

[Guest 1930]

Cant figure it out but it is Dodge Brothers 1 ton 4 and 6 cyl August of 1929, is this the same book?

George Farrel sent me a PDF of this book quite a while back, if you want a copy ( if its not the one you have ) and George does not mind I can forward it. I dont think he will care but just to be sure I can e-mail him

Edited January 29, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Not the same book.

Only difference is mine is the 3/4 ton specific. See post #5

Edit:

Again, I may take you up on that offer someday but for now I really just want to accumlate original stuff. You understand

It's just part of the fun in research is finding the documention in it's original form that very few have.

Edited January 29, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

You learn about your own vehicle by studying similar makes and models but your choice.

However will you learn when changes occurred if you do not study the vehicles that were before and after.

Edited January 29, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

I totally agree, I love learning about the other models and I think other DB owners do too which is why I don't mind sharing what I have and hopefully others learn from it.

Hopefully someday I'll have a much better understanding of other things much more than I do now. In time, no rush...just enjoying it all right now.

Thanks for the offer though and like I said, I may take you up on it someday but for now I have my hands full studying and catching up to speed with most of what you guys already know. I've seen what other guys like Farrellg and Stakeside have posted and I tend to save and refer to it as I need for a better understanding in relation to my truck as well as trying to understand what they are up against but honestly, I just want to absorb as much 3/4 ton stuff as I can before I move into other weight ratings let alone other years.

Although it's true I am curious when the change of the interiors took place, I'm in no hurry to answer that question because there are SO many other questions that are being answered that fill in the gaps for many different parts, shapes, sizes etc... I just want to get it right

[Guest 1930]

Picking up on page 11 under Radiator shutters, continues on to page 12

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174933[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174934[/ATTACH]

Very interesting and thanks, do you have this dial on your dash, can you take a close-up picture, second page solidifies what I said earlier that these were not an option but instead standard equipment, they suggest removal of the shutters in extremely hot climates ect.

[farrellg]

Just some additional info on engine serial numbers. My model U instruction guides list 4 cylinder "Stamped top left of cylinder block". And 6 cylinder as "Stamped on right side of cylinder block near the rear".

[30DodgePanel]

He's selling me the book. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Explains the IM and JL's as well as some others from that time period Hurd and others.

more to come.

[30DodgePanel]

Ok, had a lengthy conversation with him and although the information will be limited (for now) since I don't have the book please take it easy on me as I won't be able to follow up with much facts just yet.

My understanding is that the IM was NOT the name of a company or a code. IM is for the locksmith to understand what the series of cuts needed to be made.

Using my IM 058 number off the good Coupe coil for an example the locksmith would start out with by choosing a blank key. The key for the IM and the JL are both the same stock number of 42107 and I'm assuming that is the Hex key.

Then the locksmith will look in the IM series 000-249 and cut the key according the the cuts described for each number in that series, in this instance it's the 058 for the Coupe coil.

The IM series picks up again at 500 - 749 and covered other vehicles besides just the Dodge Brothers

JL 500-999 was the same thing only a different code. JL was not the name of a company, it was only used to show the key maker what cuts to make.

The book is Volume 1 of 8. In his opinion if we are interested in answering questions in regards to car and truck keys the only other volume needed would be Volume 3 which he does not have.

What he will be sending is :

Reeds General Code Book Vol 1

There are no pictures showing variety of keys

So if anyone is interested in key and the meanings of some of these things it seems a good place to look. I realize I'm giving out some secrets here and I'll have some competition now when trying to find these books but I think everyone is entitled to it just the same.

Good luck in your search guys. Better get there before I do....

Like I said, I don't have all the info yet so I have no understand of what the C, or DB really meant although it SEEMS the DB was Dodge Brothers but I'll have to wait and see as this all gets sorted out.

Edited January 29, 2013 by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)

[30DodgePanel]

Very interesting and thanks, do you have this dial on your dash, can you take a close-up picture, second page solidifies what I said earlier that these were not an option but instead standard equipment, they suggest removal of the shutters in extremely hot climates ect.

No I do not have that on my dash as the 30 does not have this option, maybe stakeside can post a pic if he has one. In my 30 I should have a lever under the dash in the middle that opens the cowl vent see #26 of the photo of my interior. (guess that answers my previous question about when the change took place).

Just curious why you need such a closeup ? Doesn't the scan zoom you in far enough ?

George ,

We obviously have that same book, thanks for pointing that out. Great piece of info isn't it ? Where would we be without that....one of the best purchases an owner of these trucks can make. By the way I picked up a 1/2 ton Merchant Express parts list book first edition July 1 1929 Effective serial number P-1001 do you have one of these ? If you don't I may be able to help at times so don't hesitate to ask.

I also picked up a 1/2 ton 4 and 6 cylinder Series "F" 109" WB and I would think your 31 will be covered more thoroughly in there.

Is the Merchant Express a Panel or Pickup ? Can you post any pics of it ? I'd love to see it.

[Guest 1930]

Sounds like an interesting book, curious what the title and publish date.

[30DodgePanel]

Better hurry

Amazon.com: Reed Locksmith Publishing General Code Book Vol. 1 Around the World: Everything Else