franc944 Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 (edited) I have a 91 with 85,000 miles that feels like it is going to crash out of control when I hit a bump but other than that it runs great!i got Kyb shock and strut assemblies and new mounts/ bearings, and dorman lower control arms from rock auto and am going to tackle the job Saturday.i have already done all 4 brakes and rotors and both cv axels. I know I should have done struts n control arms at the same time but I did not think I needed them until I got my mechanic's opinion. I thought it was just a bushing or ball joint.It is a corrosion free California car so it should come apart nice and easy.Does anyone have any tips on this job?This isn't my first rodeo but there is nothing worse than having a car apart and not having the right tool or missing something.i have the $50 Harbor Freight spring compressors. Edited January 22, 2013 by franc944 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4 Peaks Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 You already know how to go about removing the axles, next the lower arm then the strut. I always unbolt the sway bar first, before starting any of this work. Check for brake hose, ABS wire brackets bolted to strut. Support the hub assembly,don't let things hang on the brake hose. The front end should be aligned when job is finished. " BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN USING THE SPRING COMPRESSOR " Have Fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Butch91 Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 my boys and i did all brakes, shocks, struts etc when we first got our cars. yes, be very careful with spring compressor, it is straight forward but be careful. just over this past christmas break, we did some more front end work; namely lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends as well as some new boots on outer cv axels. you did not mention the tie rod ends; check them out; changing them did make a difference. suggestion, if you need to change the inner tie rod end, might as well do both inner and outer as you need to dis-assemble anyway. if you need to replace inner tie rods, you can get the inner tie rod tool at harbor freight as well, that is what we used and it worked fine. also, you most likely will need to get the front end re-aligned once you get all the front end work done. so, do all the work you intend to do and get it aligned once; or you may need to get it aligned with each individual job you do. good luck and all the best, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franc944 Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Anyone know the quick strut part number? Wold it be the same as the v6 dodge spirit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I went to my parts supplier and he looked up the listings for the TC. I think it was KYB that I installed. I replace all the rest of the consumables for the struts as well. No point in trying to save a couple of bucks to find out in a few months that something else has failed and you have to do it all over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franc944 Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 Doh!I did not mark the cam bolts on the strut! So I need to eyeball the alignment until I get to the shop. So far struts removed and I decided to bring to my buddy's shop to have him compress the springs and swap to new struts. Reassembly next Monday night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 While you have her apart my suggestion would be to tear off a thin width if rag, anout 8" long, soak it with a little brake cleaner and weave it through the air space in the anti-lock pickup sensor. Moving it back and forth you can do a great job of cleaning the crap that has accumulated there and no need to remove, and possibly damage the sensor.Just a thought.Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franc944 Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 I got the old struts out and they were in bad shape, seals gone all the oil was long gone. I was going to just do lower control arms. I am glad I spend the extra $100 on a pair of KYB and mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89TC-16V Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 control arm bushings if i understand you correctly are a nightmare to go on a 20year old car, you end up needing a torch to burn the old bushings out to be able to replace them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest My TC Toy Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 The bushings are easy to replace. The three bolts around the tower secure the bushings and a tap will release the old bushing and strut together (that is assuming the lower end is let go). Bushings are a MUST to replace if replacing the struts. Also the ball joints should be replaced. Although they may seem OK, they still have plenty of wear on them. Don't get the cheapest because that is exactly what you will get, crap. Keep to a more moderately priced joint or better. It is always better to go with a recognozed national brand. Good luck, it will make a great difference to your ride.Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89TC-16V Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 the bushings for the struts up front are extremely easy as are the basic press in ball joints and tie rods also if needed. the bushings in the control arms are NOT that easy to do. ive gotten all my masi parts from Rock Auto this summer as all the parts for those year chrsylers were on 50% off or better close out, i got loaded calipers, brake hoses, all kinds of stuff for under 100$ and its like well over 250$ worth of stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franc944 Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 (edited) I did the driver side last night.Went in like butter no wrestleing parts in like I thought just raised and lowered control arms with floor jack until holes lined up. Removing sway bar first with air impact gun helped tramendously.Passenger side a different story as I noticed inner CV joint on axel I just replaced in May was slinging grease every where so I called Napa and ordered a warranty replacement.So now I cant finish the job until next week.Old lower control arm bushings on 85,000 mile California car did not look as bad as I thought once I had them off. The bad ride quality and out of control after hitting bumps must have all been from shot struts.What is the torque spec on strut top mount bolts? I tried 45 lbs and thought bolts were going to snap so I just went by feel. Edited February 5, 2013 by franc944 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89TC-16V Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 i think torque spec on strut tower nuts are 35lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now