TomP

Viewing a 33 PD rumble seat coupe RHD

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'Line colors' for basic colors were 246-xxxxx. So I assume your color was 246-545. For instance line metallic color formula ingredients were 202-xxxx's but when mixed the 1st metallic paint for Plymouth became 246-31326 French Taupe No. 4 Duco.

"246" and "202" were DuPont prefixes and have nothing to do with the Chrysler Corporation codes.

I do have paint codes for Chrysler products, but the earliest I have for Plymouth is 1934, although I have lists of colours going back to the model Q for US-built cars. The PD Rumble Seat Coupe was available in six colours -

Radio Blue (Ditzler IM-89, DuPont 246-30351)

Bahama Green (Ditzler IM-1287, DuPont 246-30362)

Durode Gray (Ditzler IM-924, DuPont 246-30349)

Plymouth Blue (Ditzler IM-1283, DuPont 246-30468)

Verona Maroon (Ditzler IM-429, DuPont 246-30353)

and Black (Ditzler LE30-VV)

As the Plymouth PD in question was code 545, which was a gray, it may very well have been Durode Gray, the only gray Plymouth listed for the PD Rumble Seat Coupe.

DuPont's metallic paints did not initially have a unique prefix. Instead, DuPont listed the formulas which included the aluminum flakes and later began showing the formulas, less the metallic additive, as the non-metallic colour. To make it a metallic, you added the aluminum flakes. The "202" prefix finally appeared around 1934-35. Thus if you wanted French Taupe No. 4 Metallic, you purchased a quart or gallon (as needed) of 246-31326 French Taupe No. 4 and added 2¼ ounces of 246-9614 Aluminum per quart of 246-31326.

Plymouth used only lacquer paints before 1935, which DuPont called Duco paints. Their enamel paints were sold as Dulux and used different prefixes - 93 for non-metallic and 181 for metallic. Ditzler used DQE (for Ditzler Quick Dry Enamel) as the prefix for enamel paint. Metallic enamel paints usually added a "P" suffix (for Polychromatic).

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Be careful thinking of gray as gray. I am in the middle of painting a 33 PD and am studying two colors Durode Gray and Chrysler Light Gray. I am having samples mixed of both these. These two grays appear to be more tan than gray with the Durode Gray slightly darker than Chrysler Light Gray. When I receive these two samples sprayed out on some sheet metal I will photograph and post them. The Durode Gray was accented with English Coach Vermillion (red) pin stripes and wheels. The Chrysler Light Gray was accented with Packard Ivory pin stripes and wheels. Chrycoman and Dodge KCL are right, the first metallic offered on Plymouth cars began with the French Taupe Metallic in 1933. This followed by a lot of metallic colors in the 1934 model line up. Good luck with your restoration. My brother and I are having fun (???) with ours. Chris

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Thanks for your replies Gents, I have to admit that I am a bit bemused by all the different information you have given on the original

codes, still nothing on the hide color and how much of the interior would have been fabric and how much leather.

Thanks again for what you have collectively posted, I look forward to seeing the paint samples.

Edited by TomP (see edit history)

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post-86357-143141890869_thumb.jpgHere are colors. Each color is about 5 x 7 inches. The one on left is Chrysler Light Gray, center is Vermillion for pin stripe and wheels, the right is Durode Gray. The Chrysler Light Gray would use a Packard Ivory pin stripe and wheels. The photo on left is full sunlight, the two on the right (with blue in it) in the shade. Both are more tan than gray. The Durode Gray has a little olive tint. Hope this is helpful. Chris

post-86357-143141890862_thumb.jpg

post-86357-143141890874_thumb.jpg

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Thanks 1935EB the colours have come out great the only thing is that since posting last I have come across a PD in the same colour as mine is now, albeit mine hasn't seen paint for a good few yrs.

 

It may well be a well know car your side of the pond but I just think it looks right.

1933 pd.jpg

Edited by TomP
Photobucket (see edit history)

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Can't wait now to get my RHD PD RS looking like the one above, has been up on the 2 post for possibly 6 months now, one of the problems working in a tardis, need more space or less cars but there's nothing I want to sell on. there is another unit coming up for rent but until I see it there's no decision to make. Got to get my head down come Tuesday to stand a chance of getting the top three on my list finished.

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Tom--Happy New Year to you from us in the colonies!  Looking forward to further updates.  On that topic, anything from Chris in Houston?  Still haven't had any updates from him since the floods.  Hope he and his 33 convertible are OK. Again, all the best to you in the coming new year.  SMB

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Scott, Happy New Year to you also back on the job in the morning, not been there since 22nd Dec, not like me at all. Not heard a thing from Chris, about once a month I ping an email to him but nothing comes back his surname is Sokol, not thought of trying white pages, I'm thinking he was 10 miles NW of Houston but most concerning. Purchased a PT 125 end of 2016 in really good condition, no Engine/Trans but I now have a T142 unit to go in it. The other 34 PE was much worse than I originally thought, slowly cutting out and replacing with new steel, labour of love but you already knew that. Keep in touch.

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FENDER WELTING. 33 R/S PD Coupe

About to start putting this one back together, need some advise on where the Fender Welting should go or perhaps where it shouldn't go. At the moment the body is 2" off the frame, no panels are bolted to the body and the running boards are not attached to the side sills (rocker panels?), at the rear, the valance is ready to bolt to the trunk floor. If possible an order of assembly would be useful.

Look forward to your advise.

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Tom--

Best I can tell you on the welting is as follows:  No welting between the ends of the running boards and the fenders, the rubber vulcanized to the metal boards serves that purpose.  Between the 'side sills' (splash aprons) there is typically a thin fibre welting without a bead, and those are riveted to the running boards, not bolted.  When installed, the running boards just bolt to the brackets that stick out and the splash aprons just slip under the body without any welting.  There is beaded welting between the front of the front fenders and the radiator shell and between the body and the rear fenders.  Have seen cars both ways but I believe a beaded welt does go between the rear of the body and the top of the gas tank shroud. 

Good to hear from you again, hope all is going well, still trying to finish up my PE convertible.  SMB

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Scott, thanks for your answers they are very useful as it had no welting at all when I bought it, still have an amount to do. Both sidemount covers need repair and I have parts for the sidemount iron to machine and adapt from other models, would like to think it could be this year but it all depends on how many times I trip myself up with the 2 others I'm working on.

Good to know your PE still going forward  Tom

Edited by TomP (see edit history)

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