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Chandler 1929


Guest Armstrong

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Guest Armstrong

Hello from Toodyay Western Australia.

Hoping someone might assist me as I'm out of my depth with anything pre 60's.

I am trying to determine whether the front wheels on a 1929 Chandler are on arse about face. Left on right - right on left.

I wouldn't have thought it possible to mix them up.

Peter A

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Guest PIKESPEAKING

REFER TO THE TOP PICTURE IN THE CHANDLER THREAD THAT YOU POSTED ON. PICTURE SHOWS THE SAME SETUP AS YOURS. YOUR SETUP APPEARS TO BE REVERSED. BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS SHOULD BE BEHIND THE AXLE. HOW THIS WAS ACCOMPLISHED YOU WOULD HAVE TO DETERMINE BY FURTHER EXAMINATION OF YOUR ASSEMBLY. POSSIBLY JUST THE BACKING PLATES AND BRAKE ASSEMBLY ON THE WRONG SIDE. GOOD LUCK.

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Guest Armstrong

Thank you PIKESPEAKING.

That certainly answers the question. I posted the photographs because it would have been obvious to anyone simply by looking that knew the adjustments should be located behind the axle.

The guy who restored this particular Chandler died three years ago. His family endeavours to keep the vehicles running. But for some obscure reason the brakes were working in reverse. The brakes remained on when the pedal was not depressed, and came off when the pedal was depressed. Consequently (just as you noted from the photographs)they switched the entire left and right front wheels, ending up with the braking mechanisms forward of the front axle. Obviously they will need to be switched back.

I have only given the vehicles a cursory glance. What would cause the brake pedal to work in reverse? I am assuming it is a simple adjustment.

Thank You, and everyone else for the feed back.

Peter A

Edited by Armstrong (see edit history)
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Guest PIKESPEAKING

THE CAM THAT FORCES THE BRAKE BAND TIGHTER IS BEING TWISTED REVERSE OF WHAT IT SHOULD BE BECAUSE IT IS ON BACKWARDS THERFORE THE BRAKES ARE LOOSENED WHEN APPLYING THE PEDAL. HOPE THIS HELPS.

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Contracting band brakes were very much obsolete by 1929, though a few of the more expensive cars still used them in 1927. This almost looks like a combination of Perrot or clone expanding shoes inside the drums, acting simultaneously. The open end of the band and its contracting mechanism is usually at the back. An advantage of this is that it is better to get rid of water between lining and drum so they will actually stop in the wet. Your photos do not show enough to be sure of the action, but the levers must be pulled from the rear. If the linings are grooved at about 45 dgrees, an inch and a half to two inches apart, they will work better. (The angle is opposite on the two sides so it does not make the wheels dirty). The drums are always a problem because they are pressed steel, and do not have good rigidity or thermal capacity, and steel does not work as well as cast iron. I build drums like this up with Metco Spraysteel LS, a spray coating of molten droplets. It is work-hardening and is tricky to machine, but has similar friction characteristics to cast iron. Any extra thickness of the ring that space will allow is beneficial. You should have little trouble finding workshops with Metcospray equipment in West Aus. if you need this done.

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