'35 Buick 3 Window Coupe For Sale in Kansas City

[Mark Shaw]

Jake,

I think there were a lot of true craftsmen around in the early days when these cars were somewhat hand made and fitted.

Now we tend to rely on machines to make identical interchangeable parts.

True craftsmen are now very few and far between.

[Guest BJM]

Bryan, the seller isn't saying that the wood is collapsing and you can tell by looking at it that it's not in the shape of that sedan in Des Moines. I know that this isn't the way a true "restore" thinks, but what if it could be put into a state where, as we Irish say, "Good enough is good enough"? If you strengthened the wood as best you can, cleaned it up a little and got it drivable you would be postponing the full restoration for someone else down the road, keeping out of the hands of someone who will ruin it, getting a little fun out of owning it and possibly making a little money a down the road a ways. I know from years of buying and selling old cars that any time a buyer can get in a car and drive it around the block it's worth 20 to 25 percent more than if he can't drive it at all. I have a friend who lives in Harris, IA near the MN border, could probably haul it for you at reasonable price. Here's a little temptation for you, though I think that the red and black makes it look like a fleet car:

A truer word has never spoken, or whatever the phrase. 1st, this car will never be hard used. It would be babied the rest of it's time. 2nd, the door fitment seems to be nice. My 36 Roadmaster had what we called "floppy doors", with rust out at the bottom.

3rd, the 2 door coupe exposes a lot less to the elements then a 36 Roadmaster 4 door which had key water/elements access at 4 doors, down the trunk, etc, causing much more havoc.

So if a person personally inspects and finds the wood simply weathered and not missing or splintered like my 36, then there might be hope to simply add strength through epoxy and / or steel and enjoy the car.

However, when one can buy perfectly fine pre war Buicks in the $8,000 to $15,000 range, it make it hard to spend the $4000 on this car that Stuart believes it would bring - and I agree with his knowledge on pricing on this one.

[Guest BJM]

Jake,

I think there were a lot of true craftsmen around in the early days when these cars were somewhat hand made and fitted.

Now we tend to rely on machines to make identical interchangeable parts.

True craftsmen are now very few and far between.

This I am finding to be true. We all have a profession. And we are NOT paid to make mistakes. So it makes sense that the craftsmen that put these bodies together got really good at it and were paid accordingly.

I was an auto technician for 8 years. When I got experienced I could do what took a "junior" technician 1 hour to do in 20 minutes. Of course, I heard the complaints from family and friends that the dealership should then charge less for my completing the work then the apprentice. I would say "OK" then I will remove the part and the apprentice can install it, maybe break something or make it worse, OR you can drive your car away with confidence and guarantee, your call....

Edited January 13, 2013 by BJM (see edit history)

[Guest BJM]

I do like that '36, even more than the '35. It has great streamline style and was the last of the 3-window Buicks. Although not as radical as the later Lincoln-Zephyr coupes, the '36 was certainly leading in that direction. However, this was the last year for wood body framing and I think this thread has taught us about the major challenge that bestows on a project.

I've always been a pre-war guy at heart. I used to doodle Duesenbergs in Math class, while my buddies were drawing Corvettes. I haven't taken any opportunities to express the Classic urge in my garage, though, because I've seen how difficult it is to restore and maintain the oldtimers. You either need amazing skills or deep pockets, with which neither am I blessed.

Having owned a 36 Buick and been "very close" to a 35 Buick (the series 40 on the east side of Des Moines) I think this one is apples to apples styling wise. The 35 (and 1934) Buick grilles are nearly perfect in their form and style. To each their own I understand - BUT - 1936 it would appear saw every manufacturer come up with what we now call the "waterfall" grille.

So, while Buick's had a fantastic look in 1936, they did not go out on a limb. For that, one would turn to the Chrysler Airflow, the Nash, Cadillac and Lincoln.

The 1936 Buick was superior to the 35 Buick because of mechanical reasons. Hydraulic brakes, the new 320 straight 8.

[Hudsy Wudsy]

Quoting Rob "I haven't taken any opportunities to express the Classic urge in my garage, though, because I've seen how difficult it is to restore and maintain the oldtimers. You either need amazing skills or deep pockets, with which neither am I blessed." GM cars of the prewar era have many wonderful qualities which make them very desirable and very popular -- beautiful styling and powerful engines not the lest of these qualities. I have got to say, though, that there were other manufacturers of great cars of this era who had long before gone to all steel bodies, insert bearings and hydraulic brakes. I won't list alternatives to GM cars because we are, after all, on a Buick forum, but there are alternatives to becoming a journey man carpenter in order to enjoy a prewar car. Please don't let this particular thread diminish any interest you might have.

[Guest BJM]

Hudsy

One answer to most of the Buick mechanical engineering conservatism: Dutch Bower.

[Landman]

I had to replace about 1/3 of the wood in my 1930 Buick model 68 Victoria coupe due to rot and termite damage. I have a fully equipped woodshop in my garage and would not want to attempt this task without a full complement of tools. I was able to incorporate a liquid epoxy filler in a few areas that were fundamentally sound, but for the most part I had to replace individual wood members. For me personally the most difficult part of the task was not the reproduction of the various pieces of wood, but rather opening metal seams to gain access to a given area and then reconstructing the area once the new wood structural member was in place. The entire job took about 6 months to complete with many hours of my time invested. Actually I invested every free hour in the process, neglecting the yard-work much to the consternation of my homeowners association. Glad that task is now behind me.

Thanks,

I am doing a `34 Chevy which is very similar. It can be seen in the "Our cars and restorations" forum. It took me the better part of six months as well. The body was put over the wood frame in at least two pieces and then welded on the wood.