Jump to content

1935 buick 56s

Recommended Posts

Hello all Happy 2013,Thought this site would be a good start for info before I make a purchase of a '35 Buick 56s with dual side mounts.Are there numbers that could confirm if the motor is original to the car.Here is what I have so far,Vin.#2813549, Style#35-4557, Body#198 and

Trim#200. Is there a reference chart to describe what these #'s mean.Would it tell me what the original body color was and the type of interior it came with.The car appears to be a lightly used and well presurved older restoration so anything could have be altered during the restoration. The motor is a straight 8 ohv and the carberator is an updraft type.Was an up draft type carb used for this model.

Thanks for all input, Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've listed the paint and trim code numbers below. More details on the paint codes can be found in the BCA judging manual, see page 43 (page 45 of 85 in this PDF):




Buick model 56S is a 2-door sport coupe with rumble seat, 4-passenger.


Fisher body style number 4557 is for the same and breaks down like this:

4 = Buick

5 = Series 50

57 = 2-door sport coupe with rumble seat, 4-passenger


There were 268 model 56S built for model year 1935 and 11 model 56SX (export) built. The body number of your car indicates it was number 198.


Frame serial number range for 1935 is 2777650 to 2830898, and your cars number falls into that range. The engine serial number should start with a 5 indicating Series 50 and then fall into the range 2922072 to 2984413 for 1935.



1935 Buick Models.jpg

1935 Buick Paint Codes.jpg

1935 Buick Trim Codes.jpg

Edited by sean1997
Fixed formatting due to useless forum software that no longer allows HTML tables or PDF attachments. (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sean , thanks for the fast and incredibly detailed spot on info.I'll check what paint # is on the car and see if the color from the list matches what's on the car. Also I'll check the engine serial # on the (block ?) against the 1935 50 series range you gave me.

Thanks Again, Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites


Welcome to the FORUM and to the Buick site.

You will find your Buick to be a wonderful car to drive and to enjoy.


I have been enjoying my 1934 50 Series model 57 4-door sedan with sidemounts and a trunk on the rear rack since I bought it in 1995. It was bought new by a Preacher in California Central Valley, Painted and upholstered in 1970 and sold to a friend in Colorado, and sold to me in 1995. I toured with it for 11 years, and then did a full restoration. I was lucky in that my car had absolutely no rust, no dents or dings (except right-front fender), and no wood rot. Since restoration, the Buick has been awarded AACA First Junior, Senior, Grand National First Place, and First, and Repeat Preservation recognition.

We also love touring in our 1937 and 1914 Buicks.

Photos are attached, and we hope to see pictures of your 1935 Model 56S.

Again, best of luck with your Buick.







Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Marty,beautiful collection you have.I'm hoping to make the deal on the '35 56s but don't own it yet.Great to hear first hand about the positive driving ability of the 34/35 50 series.Driving these old cars is the key for me and if they're capable of 55-60 mph for highway use is perfect for me.About 25 years ago I owned a 1935 chevy 2 door master sedan and was able to maintain 55mph so I assumed the buick could do that and maybe more if the gearing would allow. Currently I drive my 1940 ford standard coupe often on the highway at 60-65 mph everytime.I love the look of the early to mid thirty's .But want more driveability than a model A.When

you get a chance call me (917)355-0269 Thanks, Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome Joe... I am a bit late to this party as I have been working on other projects, but I see you already got what you needed from Sean & Marty. Marty has three of my favorite Buicks and I believe he drives all of them (my kind of collector). If you do buy that Buick, I urge you to join the BCA and our PreWar Division to fully enjoy you car.

Good luck,

Link to post
Share on other sites


You can get more info and join the BCA right on this forum, depending on how you got to it. But go to buickclub.org and you will see how to join.

I am the Region Coordinator for the NE Region and there are active chapters on Long Island, Lower Hudson Valley (which includes some members in the Bronx up to above West Point), New Jersey and the Upstate NY Chapter in Albany area. You should be able to find some close to where you live.

Anyone in the BCA can join the Pre-War Division and I am the also the area coordinator for the Northeast. Anyone in the BCA can join the PWD and there is no cost as we are just internet based communication. We can get you signed up.


Link to post
Share on other sites


You have some good information from the many responses here, and yes, it is an updraft Marvel carburetor.

The rear-end ratio should be - I think - 4.88:1; at least that is what my 4-door Sedan is.

In their advertising, Buick "claimed" that you could drive 85mph all day long -- DO NOT TRY THIS !!

We are always comfortable driving at 50 mph.Driving at 55mph still feels pretty good, and 60 mph seems OK for short bursts, but unless it was gone through, I would not it to run at that speed all day.

One of the BEST things about this era of 50/60/90 Series Buicks is the BRAKES. Yes, they are 4-wheel mechanical, not hydraulic. They can be adjusted well, and, in my opinion, are as good as hydraulic. ALSO --- These Buicks have Vacuum-operated Power-Assist Mechanical Brakes. When you drive the 1934-1945 56S Buick, properly adjusted, you will think that you are stopping a modern car.

Another advantage of the 1934-35 models, over prior Buicks, is the independent front suspension! My 34-57 steers like I'm handling a baby carriage - light and predictable.

A close friend had me drive two of his Buicks - a 1933 and a 1934. The 1933 (big-Series) had a solid front axle, and after driving it for a serious distance, he asked how my shoulders felt - the answer was "normally tired-like any big old car". Then the next day I drove his (big-Series) 1934 the same roads and was not tired out. He was pushing me to get a '34-'35 model when I had been also looking at a beautiful 1933. Believe me, I love the earlier cars too, but the independent front suspension makes the 1934 and newer Buicks much easier to drive. Going through the suspension and steering components will ensure a comfortable and safer Tour-Driver, and they do just fine with original sized bias-ply tires, as well!

Remember that the straight eight has poured babbit rod bearings, which are every bit as good as shell bearings when they are in good condition, but if damaged or cracked, can lead to failure. Mine started going bad, one at a time. Eventually we went through the engine, machined the rods, and replaced with insert bearings, used aluminum pistons, balanced the entire rotating assembly, improved oiling, hardened valve seats, and whatever we could do for reliability. Our intent was to keep the car as a "DRIVER", and we did for several seasons, but after 11 years of touring we asked Barry and Lindy Eash in Windber/Beaverdale, PA to do the body and interior restoration, and have been showing it ever since as well. They (Barry & Lindy Eash) are wonderful people - a top-quality couple doing honest top-quality work at fair prices.

I've added several pictures taken when the Buick was first shown at Stowe, Vermont in May, 2011 for her AACA First Junior. Hopefully these photos will be of help to you in considering your 35-56S. Please feel free to email me or PM with any questions or thoughts, and good luck with your purchase of the Buick.


****** What appears to be "SPOTS" in the next-to-last photo, is actually the RAIN DROPS that started falling at the end of the Meet, not spots in paint ******



















Edited by Marty Roth
add comment on rain drops in photo- not in paint (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Marty thanks for the beautiful and great reference phtos and all your fisrt hand input with the brakes, suspension and driving experience. Last night I learned the 56s has paint code 350 which equals Black w/cream stripe, and car is all dark green.Also the interior is a beige mohair with a plain pattern and although the color maybe close to Trim # 200 (plush taupe) I don't know what the material should be and the pattern does'nt have the seam cross the middle like your front seat does.The car is not cheap and wondered if the paint and interior would affect the value much . I wasn't able to attach photos yet my file was too large. Will try again soon,Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

G'day Marty,

Sorry to cut in on the discussion but I am restoring a 1935 8/50 (Holden Body) in Australia. I am having trouble getting the correct size rear bumper body grommets I purchased a set from Steele but they are smaller than the ones on my car. Do you know of any other suppliers??

Cheers from down under.


Link to post
Share on other sites


I took these links from the on-line catalog from Bob's - you might want to phone or email them and discuss dimensions, but I wonder if you got the wrong pair ref "trunk rack vs no trunk rack"?

Bumper Grommets Rear 1933-35"No Trunk Rack" BG-345:


Rear Bumper Grommets For Most 1933-35 Models With Trunk Rack. Sold In Pairs:

Bumper Grommets Rear 1933-35


Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply but the two types are the same cross section and just deeper. So neither will fit. Must be a Holden "thing".

By the way your 35 is magnificent. I am always on the look out for the differences between a 34 and a 35. Are your rear engine mounts vertical or are they set on a slight angle . My theory is that a 34 has vertical mounts and a 35 has them slightly off vertical to keep them in compression rather than sheer???

Cheers from down under,


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Stuart,

Here is a photo of the originals one and the US type. The shape is good but the height is out by about an inch and the width is out by about 3/4"

I'll get a photo of the body gap over the weekend.


Link to post
Share on other sites


Actually, my car is a 1934 50 Series, Model 34-57 and so I can't really tell you the difference in the motor mounts between it and the 1935.

The difference may be with that of the "new" engine in the 40 Series.

Best regards,


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...