Guest joflo Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Hello all Happy 2013,Thought this site would be a good start for info before I make a purchase of a '35 Buick 56s with dual side mounts.Are there numbers that could confirm if the motor is original to the car.Here is what I have so far,Vin.#2813549, Style#35-4557, Body#198 andTrim#200. Is there a reference chart to describe what these #'s mean.Would it tell me what the original body color was and the type of interior it came with.The car appears to be a lightly used and well presurved older restoration so anything could have be altered during the restoration. The motor is a straight 8 ohv and the carberator is an updraft type.Was an up draft type carb used for this model. Thanks for all input, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean1997 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) I've listed the paint and trim code numbers below. More details on the paint codes can be found in the BCA judging manual, see page 43 (page 45 of 85 in this PDF): http://www.buickclub.org/BCA%20JUDGING%20MANUAL/BCAjudgingrev2.pdf Buick model 56S is a 2-door sport coupe with rumble seat, 4-passenger. Fisher body style number 4557 is for the same and breaks down like this: 4 = Buick 5 = Series 50 57 = 2-door sport coupe with rumble seat, 4-passenger There were 268 model 56S built for model year 1935 and 11 model 56SX (export) built. The body number of your car indicates it was number 198. Frame serial number range for 1935 is 2777650 to 2830898, and your cars number falls into that range. The engine serial number should start with a 5 indicating Series 50 and then fall into the range 2922072 to 2984413 for 1935. Edited July 25, 2018 by sean1997 Fixed formatting due to useless forum software that no longer allows HTML tables or PDF attachments. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Sean , thanks for the fast and incredibly detailed spot on info.I'll check what paint # is on the car and see if the color from the list matches what's on the car. Also I'll check the engine serial # on the (block ?) against the 1935 50 series range you gave me. Thanks Again, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Joflo,Welcome to the FORUM and to the Buick site. You will find your Buick to be a wonderful car to drive and to enjoy.YOU MAY ALREADY KNOW THAT THE 1934 AND 1935 MODELS WERE ALMOST IDENTICAL.I have been enjoying my 1934 50 Series model 57 4-door sedan with sidemounts and a trunk on the rear rack since I bought it in 1995. It was bought new by a Preacher in California Central Valley, Painted and upholstered in 1970 and sold to a friend in Colorado, and sold to me in 1995. I toured with it for 11 years, and then did a full restoration. I was lucky in that my car had absolutely no rust, no dents or dings (except right-front fender), and no wood rot. Since restoration, the Buick has been awarded AACA First Junior, Senior, Grand National First Place, and First, and Repeat Preservation recognition.We also love touring in our 1937 and 1914 Buicks.Photos are attached, and we hope to see pictures of your 1935 Model 56S.Again, best of luck with your Buick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean1997 Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) Also I'll check the engine serial # on the (block ?) against the 1935 50 series range you gave me.It should be stamped on a flat pad on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Edited January 2, 2013 by sean1997 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Hi Marty,beautiful collection you have.I'm hoping to make the deal on the '35 56s but don't own it yet.Great to hear first hand about the positive driving ability of the 34/35 50 series.Driving these old cars is the key for me and if they're capable of 55-60 mph for highway use is perfect for me.About 25 years ago I owned a 1935 chevy 2 door master sedan and was able to maintain 55mph so I assumed the buick could do that and maybe more if the gearing would allow. Currently I drive my 1940 ford standard coupe often on the highway at 60-65 mph everytime.I love the look of the early to mid thirty's .But want more driveability than a model A.Whenyou get a chance call me (917)355-0269 Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Sean thanks for eng.# locaton,will contact owner soon and keep you posted. Do you know if the up draft carb is correct for this car. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean1997 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Yes, I think Series 40 used a downdraft carb and Series 50-60-90 used an updraft. I think the carb was a Marvel. Here are a couple of links that might be helpful:THE CARBURETOR SHOP / Marvel casting numbersDirectory Index: Buick/1935_Buick/1935_Buick_Brochure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Welcome Joe... I am a bit late to this party as I have been working on other projects, but I see you already got what you needed from Sean & Marty. Marty has three of my favorite Buicks and I believe he drives all of them (my kind of collector). If you do buy that Buick, I urge you to join the BCA and our PreWar Division to fully enjoy you car.Good luck, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Hi Mark, BCA and BCA pre war sounds good , is it one membership, are there regional chapters near new york city or long Island ny. email: joefloriomail@yahoo.com Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jscheib Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Joe,You can get more info and join the BCA right on this forum, depending on how you got to it. But go to buickclub.org and you will see how to join.I am the Region Coordinator for the NE Region and there are active chapters on Long Island, Lower Hudson Valley (which includes some members in the Bronx up to above West Point), New Jersey and the Upstate NY Chapter in Albany area. You should be able to find some close to where you live.Anyone in the BCA can join the Pre-War Division and I am the also the area coordinator for the Northeast. Anyone in the BCA can join the PWD and there is no cost as we are just internet based communication. We can get you signed up.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) Joe,You have some good information from the many responses here, and yes, it is an updraft Marvel carburetor.The rear-end ratio should be - I think - 4.88:1; at least that is what my 4-door Sedan is.In their advertising, Buick "claimed" that you could drive 85mph all day long -- DO NOT TRY THIS !!We are always comfortable driving at 50 mph.Driving at 55mph still feels pretty good, and 60 mph seems OK for short bursts, but unless it was gone through, I would not it to run at that speed all day.One of the BEST things about this era of 50/60/90 Series Buicks is the BRAKES. Yes, they are 4-wheel mechanical, not hydraulic. They can be adjusted well, and, in my opinion, are as good as hydraulic. ALSO --- These Buicks have Vacuum-operated Power-Assist Mechanical Brakes. When you drive the 1934-1945 56S Buick, properly adjusted, you will think that you are stopping a modern car.Another advantage of the 1934-35 models, over prior Buicks, is the independent front suspension! My 34-57 steers like I'm handling a baby carriage - light and predictable.A close friend had me drive two of his Buicks - a 1933 and a 1934. The 1933 (big-Series) had a solid front axle, and after driving it for a serious distance, he asked how my shoulders felt - the answer was "normally tired-like any big old car". Then the next day I drove his (big-Series) 1934 the same roads and was not tired out. He was pushing me to get a '34-'35 model when I had been also looking at a beautiful 1933. Believe me, I love the earlier cars too, but the independent front suspension makes the 1934 and newer Buicks much easier to drive. Going through the suspension and steering components will ensure a comfortable and safer Tour-Driver, and they do just fine with original sized bias-ply tires, as well!Remember that the straight eight has poured babbit rod bearings, which are every bit as good as shell bearings when they are in good condition, but if damaged or cracked, can lead to failure. Mine started going bad, one at a time. Eventually we went through the engine, machined the rods, and replaced with insert bearings, used aluminum pistons, balanced the entire rotating assembly, improved oiling, hardened valve seats, and whatever we could do for reliability. Our intent was to keep the car as a "DRIVER", and we did for several seasons, but after 11 years of touring we asked Barry and Lindy Eash in Windber/Beaverdale, PA to do the body and interior restoration, and have been showing it ever since as well. They (Barry & Lindy Eash) are wonderful people - a top-quality couple doing honest top-quality work at fair prices.I've added several pictures taken when the Buick was first shown at Stowe, Vermont in May, 2011 for her AACA First Junior. Hopefully these photos will be of help to you in considering your 35-56S. Please feel free to email me or PM with any questions or thoughts, and good luck with your purchase of the Buick.Marty****** What appears to be "SPOTS" in the next-to-last photo, is actually the RAIN DROPS that started falling at the end of the Meet, not spots in paint ****** Edited January 5, 2013 by Marty Roth add comment on rain drops in photo- not in paint (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Marty thanks for the beautiful and great reference phtos and all your fisrt hand input with the brakes, suspension and driving experience. Last night I learned the 56s has paint code 350 which equals Black w/cream stripe, and car is all dark green.Also the interior is a beige mohair with a plain pattern and although the color maybe close to Trim # 200 (plush taupe) I don't know what the material should be and the pattern does'nt have the seam cross the middle like your front seat does.The car is not cheap and wondered if the paint and interior would affect the value much . I wasn't able to attach photos yet my file was too large. Will try again soon,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest joflo Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 sending 56s photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buick35850 Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 G'day Marty,Sorry to cut in on the discussion but I am restoring a 1935 8/50 (Holden Body) in Australia. I am having trouble getting the correct size rear bumper body grommets I purchased a set from Steele but they are smaller than the ones on my car. Do you know of any other suppliers??Cheers from down under. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Buick35850I took these links from the on-line catalog from Bob's - you might want to phone or email them and discuss dimensions, but I wonder if you got the wrong pair ref "trunk rack vs no trunk rack"?Bumper Grommets Rear 1933-35"No Trunk Rack" BG-345:http://www.bobsautomobilia.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=1322Rear Bumper Grommets For Most 1933-35 Models With Trunk Rack. Sold In Pairs:Bumper Grommets Rear 1933-35 Edited February 26, 2013 by Marty Roth (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buick35850 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Thanks for the reply but the two types are the same cross section and just deeper. So neither will fit. Must be a Holden "thing".By the way your 35 is magnificent. I am always on the look out for the differences between a 34 and a 35. Are your rear engine mounts vertical or are they set on a slight angle . My theory is that a 34 has vertical mounts and a 35 has them slightly off vertical to keep them in compression rather than sheer???Cheers from down under,Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
50jetback Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Peter,Bumpers and irons were locally manufactured and may differ from USA irons. On my Series 40 I used 1936 grommets ( round hole ).Can you post a photo of your irons and the hole the grommets have to cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buick35850 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks Stuart, Here is a photo of the originals one and the US type. The shape is good but the height is out by about an inch and the width is out by about 3/4"I'll get a photo of the body gap over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Peter,Actually, my car is a 1934 50 Series, Model 34-57 and so I can't really tell you the difference in the motor mounts between it and the 1935.The difference may be with that of the "new" engine in the 40 Series.Best regards,Marty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Marty Roth, Are you monitoring this foreum on 1935 buicks. ?? I am looking at a 35-58. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wilkie Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 On 1/4/2013 at 4:35 PM, Marty Roth said: Joe, You have some good information from the many responses here, and yes, it is an updraft Marvel carburetor. The rear-end ratio should be - I think - 4.88:1; at least that is what my 4-door Sedan is. In their advertising, Buick "claimed" that you could drive 85mph all day long -- DO NOT TRY THIS !! We are always comfortable driving at 50 mph.Driving at 55mph still feels pretty good, and 60 mph seems OK for short bursts, but unless it was gone through, I would not it to run at that speed all day. One of the BEST things about this era of 50/60/90 Series Buicks is the BRAKES. Yes, they are 4-wheel mechanical, not hydraulic. They can be adjusted well, and, in my opinion, are as good as hydraulic. ALSO --- These Buicks have Vacuum-operated Power-Assist Mechanical Brakes. When you drive the 1934-1945 56S Buick, properly adjusted, you will think that you are stopping a modern car. Another advantage of the 1934-35 models, over prior Buicks, is the independent front suspension! My 34-57 steers like I'm handling a baby carriage - light and predictable. A close friend had me drive two of his Buicks - a 1933 and a 1934. The 1933 (big-Series) had a solid front axle, and after driving it for a serious distance, he asked how my shoulders felt - the answer was "normally tired-like any big old car". Then the next day I drove his (big-Series) 1934 the same roads and was not tired out. He was pushing me to get a '34-'35 model when I had been also looking at a beautiful 1933. Believe me, I love the earlier cars too, but the independent front suspension makes the 1934 and newer Buicks much easier to drive. Going through the suspension and steering components will ensure a comfortable and safer Tour-Driver, and they do just fine with original sized bias-ply tires, as well! Remember that the straight eight has poured babbit rod bearings, which are every bit as good as shell bearings when they are in good condition, but if damaged or cracked, can lead to failure. Mine started going bad, one at a time. Eventually we went through the engine, machined the rods, and replaced with insert bearings, used aluminum pistons, balanced the entire rotating assembly, improved oiling, hardened valve seats, and whatever we could do for reliability. Our intent was to keep the car as a "DRIVER", and we did for several seasons, but after 11 years of touring we asked Barry and Lindy Eash in Windber/Beaverdale, PA to do the body and interior restoration, and have been showing it ever since as well. They (Barry & Lindy Eash) are wonderful people - a top-quality couple doing honest top-quality work at fair prices. I've added several pictures taken when the Buick was first shown at Stowe, Vermont in May, 2011 for her AACA First Junior. Hopefully these photos will be of help to you in considering your 35-56S. Please feel free to email me or PM with any questions or thoughts, and good luck with your purchase of the Buick. Marty ****** What appears to be "SPOTS" in the next-to-last photo, is actually the RAIN DROPS that started falling at the end of the Meet, not spots in paint ****** Marty, I notice a manual pull on the automatic choke? What is the reason here? I'm now having problems with my carburetor. We have gone through it -cleaned- made gaskets, put back together .. Now it isn't wanting to pick up speed and it wants to buck on a hill pull . Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 On 5/23/2022 at 7:52 PM, Frank Wilkie said: Marty, I notice a manual pull on the automatic choke? What is the reason here? I'm now having problems with my carburetor. We have gone through it -cleaned- made gaskets, put back together .. Now it isn't wanting to pick up speed and it wants to buck on a hill pull . Any ideas? Hi Frank, The manual cable was on the carb when I first bought the car and we just left it for simplicity at the time. Per your driveability concerns, I have two thoughts, but mostly that the engine isn't getting enough fuel: 1. Check to see if the float is upside down - sounds simple, but this happened to me and made a substantial difference - fuel bowl level was too low ! 2. You may already have checked, but it is easy to get small specks of trash into passages while cleaning, so recheck? 3. Any vacuum leaks? Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wilkie Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 thanks Marty.. It's a shame that a excellent original car like this all of a sudden acts up at the start of the summer fun. I've driven many Buicks of the 1930's era with confidence.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wilkie Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Marty, I was looking closer at your starter wiring.. which terminal does the wire coming from the generator connects to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 On 1/4/2013 at 5:35 PM, Marty Roth said: Joe, You have some good information from the many responses here, and yes, it is an updraft Marvel carburetor. The rear-end ratio should be - I think - 4.88:1; at least that is what my 4-door Sedan is. In their advertising, Buick "claimed" that you could drive 85mph all day long -- DO NOT TRY THIS !! We are always comfortable driving at 50 mph.Driving at 55mph still feels pretty good, and 60 mph seems OK for short bursts, but unless it was gone through, I would not it to run at that speed all day. One of the BEST things about this era of 50/60/90 Series Buicks is the BRAKES. Yes, they are 4-wheel mechanical, not hydraulic. They can be adjusted well, and, in my opinion, are as good as hydraulic. ALSO --- These Buicks have Vacuum-operated Power-Assist Mechanical Brakes. When you drive the 1934-1945 56S Buick, properly adjusted, you will think that you are stopping a modern car. Another advantage of the 1934-35 models, over prior Buicks, is the independent front suspension! My 34-57 steers like I'm handling a baby carriage - light and predictable. A close friend had me drive two of his Buicks - a 1933 and a 1934. The 1933 (big-Series) had a solid front axle, and after driving it for a serious distance, he asked how my shoulders felt - the answer was "normally tired-like any big old car". Then the next day I drove his (big-Series) 1934 the same roads and was not tired out. He was pushing me to get a '34-'35 model when I had been also looking at a beautiful 1933. Believe me, I love the earlier cars too, but the independent front suspension makes the 1934 and newer Buicks much easier to drive. Going through the suspension and steering components will ensure a comfortable and safer Tour-Driver, and they do just fine with original sized bias-ply tires, as well! Remember that the straight eight has poured babbit rod bearings, which are every bit as good as shell bearings when they are in good condition, but if damaged or cracked, can lead to failure. Mine started going bad, one at a time. Eventually we went through the engine, machined the rods, and replaced with insert bearings, used aluminum pistons, balanced the entire rotating assembly, improved oiling, hardened valve seats, and whatever we could do for reliability. Our intent was to keep the car as a "DRIVER", and we did for several seasons, but after 11 years of touring we asked Barry and Lindy Eash in Windber/Beaverdale, PA to do the body and interior restoration, and have been showing it ever since as well. They (Barry & Lindy Eash) are wonderful people - a top-quality couple doing honest top-quality work at fair prices. I've added several pictures taken when the Buick was first shown at Stowe, Vermont in May, 2011 for her AACA First Junior. Hopefully these photos will be of help to you in considering your 35-56S. Please feel free to email me or PM with any questions or thoughts, and good luck with your purchase of the Buick. Marty ****** What appears to be "SPOTS" in the next-to-last photo, is actually the RAIN DROPS that started falling at the end of the Meet, not spots in paint ****** I noticed seat belts in the rear but not the front, how come? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted May 31, 2022 Share Posted May 31, 2022 Hmmmm. you need to - at minimum have front seat belts. Rear belts would be also important. Note the construction of todays instrument panel vs our pre-war steel instrument panels. That should convince you to instal belts all around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted June 1, 2022 Share Posted June 1, 2022 3 hours ago, Jim Nelson said: Hmmmm. you need to - at minimum have front seat belts. Rear belts would be also important. Note the construction of todays instrument panel vs our pre-war steel instrument panels. That should convince you to instal belts all around. Jim, I have been a serious proponent of seat belts going back to 1959, when I was first licensed to drive. All of our drivers, ever since that time and even through the 1960s when I bought Air Force surplus DC-3/C-47 Transport style belts, have had properly installed seat belts, and so have our collectibles where possible. If you carefully examine the construction of the 1934 Buick pictured, or have a chance to do so in person and hands-on, you'll find that there is no reasonable way to properly - and structurally appropriately safe - way to install front seat belts. Since this car was restored for show, and was no longer a tour/driver, the decision was made to retain the rears and not "butcher" the front seats, since the driving would be relegated to distances from trailer to show field and return. This was a sadly determined approach as the car had always been a fantastic driver over the dozen years we had toured her. The rear belts had been engineered back when our grandson toured with us back in the 1990s and earlier 2000s, prior to the car being retired from touring.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted June 15, 2022 Share Posted June 15, 2022 Quote Hi Marty, I have had 'driving' Buicks, not show cars. I'm down to only one now and its a 35-58 Vicky. I will add steel bracing under the body to mount seat belts up front. I'm thinking I will use the 'X' frame as my primary mount. What ever it takes. I'm an old timer who grew up prior to factory seat belts. My first car was a '50' Plymouth that I got about 1959 and I put belts in it. I Flew as a pilot for 30+ years so seat belt useage became standard ingrained in my brain. So, since I drive my Buicks, (in modern traffic when possible) that is my first safety device I install before I go cruising. I do like my Buicks.... Hmmm, your a 1943 guy ? Jim Nelson - Clearwater Fl. oldbuickjim@gmail.com 36-38 Buick Club. BCA Club. 47157. 1938-46s Buick coupe 1937-46 Buick coupe 1935-58 Buick Vicky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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