Guest slacker1965 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 mostly pointed to anyone who has done this a few times....ummm other than checking the fluids, turning it over by hand, building oil pressure w/o plugs, what should you do b4 firing the beast up after it has sat for a year or more? yes, I have fresh gas in a can & filled all the fluidsthankskevinadd a 63 to my list... pix to follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 OK Kevin: Hot battery, spark, starting fluid down the carb, turn the key and like Gleason said, "And away we go"! Can I go for a ride? Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 love it.....no brakes so we won't move it, but wanted to hear it run & check for bad noises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric's.64.Superwildcat Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 It sounds like an interesting find. What can you tell about the car's history?I look forward to seeing some photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Starting a '63 Riviera without brakes, no matter how innocent the intent, risks at least one hard to find parking light grille. If you hear bad noises will the car be sold?When the car was delivered was the lack of brakes a concern?When will be the first time you need brakes?Are you filming a TV reality show and trying to think of a different way to create a tense and exciting moment because last minute deadlines for assembly have been used at least once?Did you know you can straighten die cast?Can you guess who has a straightened left front parking light grille?Measure the distance between the shift lever, your hand, and the "I thought" mechanism.Fix the brakes first on any car worth keeping.Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and draw fuel from the tank. I use a MY-T-VAC with the brake bleeder bottle. Dump the bottle as many times as it takes to get good looking stuff up there. This flushes the line and primes the fuel pump so you don't flex the diaphragm dry.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) the car is up on jackstands...... I am trying to start it to see if it is worth fixing, or if it is just another parts car. I am not foolish enough to drive a car w/o brakes or steering Edited January 1, 2013 by slacker1965 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Be sure to do the fuel thing then. It makes a big difference and saves grinding the starter.Believe me, you don't have to be foolish to break stuff. Steering!Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Be sure to do the fuel thing then. It makes a big difference and saves grinding the starter.Believe me, you don't have to be foolish to break stuff. Steering!Bernieyeah bernie the rag joint is pretty bad....I hope a 65 one will interchange....thanks for the fuel line tip, I wouldn't have thought of it. I probably will drop the tank & clean it(or at least shine a lighter down in it;)gotta clean all the terminals 1st & check the points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 slalker1965, PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Sitting for 1 year? The length of idle time does impact what you should do. If the gas is a year old or so just go ahead and try it based on what you have already done. If older than a year its a good idea to route the fuel pump suction hose into your fresh gas can. Dribble some gas in the carb just prior to starting.If the oil life is a total unknown I'd change it first and watch what the oil looks like draining out. I wouldn't worry about the pre-oiling but thats just me. You'll know in plenty of time when starts if you don't have oil pressure.I always check/clean/gap the points as standard procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 It sounds like an interesting find. What can you tell about the car's history?I look forward to seeing some photos.history: it has sat & rotted for too long; the engine compartment looks real original, not too much cobbing. someone has done a horrible job of replacing the hard brake lines, fuel lines & hanging the mostly intact exhaust system w/coathangers & hose clamps the floorpans are totally out of it, as are a few body mounts. the driveshaft carrier bearing has one broken bolt & the other is rusted & half loose. once I get some of the rusted parts freed up, I can get it safe to drive.....will take pix as soon as I remember to get batteries for the camera, it's not much to look at. now that I know the motor/trans are in great shape, I need to decide if it is worth fixing the rust, or selling it as a clear titled running/driving project w/flintstone floors, or do the hard work & then sell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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