6 or 12 volt

[sherwood3333]

getting ready to rewire my 39, should i go 12v or stay 6v can't decide

[FLYER15015]

Sherwood,

I've chosen to stay with 6 volt for my '40 "driver" Buick. Starter/ generator rebuilds are not that expensive and bulbs are readily available, so why screw up a good thing.

Of course we only drive the baby in 3 seasons out of 4, so it's not like we have to rely on her when it is 20 below outside, like my grandfather had to do .........

Just my $ .02..........and worth every penny.........

Mike in Colorado

[39BuickEight]

6 for me, not a daily driver either, I like to keep it the way it was.

[danhar1960]

6v for me too. It's worked perfectly wel for 70 years plus so why mess with it. A lot has to do with what you are going to do with it.

Are you keeping it original or will there be A/C, power windows, 24 track quadraphonic sound system, 12 halogen driving lights, ipod jacks, dvd players.................................

Danny

[Marty Roth]

6-Volt.

All three of my Buicks are 6-Volt, and there are no reliability or starting problems. A new wiring harness is a good idea, and be sure that you use Triple-Aught (000) wires for both sides of the battery, and to the starter. Too many "restorers" mistakenly use the light-weight wires used for a 12-volt system, and the voltage drop is what creates the slow cranking.

They worked just fine when they were just used cars, and should be just as good now - maybe better with proper care.

Marty in New Orleans

[trp3141592]

Hi,

37 Roadmonster--still 100% 6V.

40 LaSalle--still 6V throughout chassis.

37 Cord--still 100% 6V.

I will concede that I have a 12V auxiliary battery whose only purpose is to power the LaSalle's starter. All else is original 6V. If you are concerned about cranking speed, you too might consider using a 12V battery that is isolated to the starter circuit. Since the 12V battery doesn't do anything but turn the starter occasionally, there's no need for an alternator: I just charge the 12V once a month or so.

--Tom

[Dynaflash8]

The question is, do you want an antique Buick or a street rod/hot rod Buick? The 6v has worked now for 72 years and it will work for 72 more. I've had over a dozen 1939 Buicks in my lifetime, and have three now. All have been 6v, and we rewired 4 of them. They work fine. One of them was hard to start when it was hot for a long, long time after the engine was rebuild. It took a lot of years and several summer tours before it would start easily when hot. I suppose that engine was tighter than it needed to be or I drove it too little for too long. Leave your car the way God and GM built it. The only modification I believe in is insert rod bearings and a 1941-53 oil pump.

[Mark Shaw]

It seems you have a unanimous consensis.

I too agree with all the previous comments and add that all my prewar Buicks are still 6 volt.

[Dynaflash8]

I mentioned changing the oil pump to a 1941-1953 oil pump to increase oil pressure. What I didn't say is that this only applies to 1934-1940 Series 40 and 1940 Series 50 Buicks. From 1941 forward the oil pump had gears that were 25% larger. Also, some or all of the oil pumps had pot metal bottom plates. The pot metal would belly warp before there were too many miles on the car. To counteract this Buick put out a two piece Kit that included a steel bottom plate and an aluminum or pot metal neck that was separage. You simply screw the neck onto the bottom plate. Later, Buick also sold a cast bottom plate and neck assembly. The cast assembly had a L-shaped neck while the Kit had the neck coming off at about a 45-degree angle. I think that was because they changed the oil pan along the way and it became somewhat deeper.

......something new from the old Buick obsolete parts man (now retired)

[trimacar]

Changing an original 6 volt system to 12 volts because of hard starting is like tearing out the water line to your house and installing a bigger line because your toilet won't flush. The 6 volt is NOT the problem, it's (as Marty mentioned) either wrong cables, bad grounding, weak starter, bad generator, binding gears on the flywheel, engine problem, and so forth.

These cars started just fine when new, or they never would have been able to sell them. Make the system like new, and it'll work.

I agree, keep it 6 volts, in case you can't tell my opinion from the above rant!

[Guest Grant Magrath]

I mentioned changing the oil pump to a 1941-1953 oil pump to increase oil pressure. What I didn't say is that this only applies to 1934-1940 Series 40 and 1940 Series 50 Buicks. From 1941 forward the oil pump had gears that were 25% larger. Also, some or all of the oil pumps had pot metal bottom plates. The pot metal would belly warp before there were too many miles on the car. To counteract this Buick put out a two piece Kit that included a steel bottom plate and an aluminum or pot metal neck that was separage. You simply screw the neck onto the bottom plate. Later, Buick also sold a cast bottom plate and neck assembly. The cast assembly had a L-shaped neck while the Kit had the neck coming off at about a 45-degree angle. I think that was because they changed the oil pan along the way and it became somewhat deeper.

......something new from the old Buick obsolete parts man (now retired)

Great info Earl!

And 6v for the Dodge, and 6v/12v for the coupe. Dad was sick of the 12v inverter draining the 6v battery, and he couldn't be bothered resetting his radio every time he wanted to hear it, so he's fitted up a small motorcycle battery next to the big one under the hood, and it's only job is to run the hidden stereo. Probably fit it under the dash to hide it away at some stage.

Cheers

Grant

[sherwood3333]

ok , will keep it 6v , thanks all for the input,,, sherwood

[Marty Roth]

Sherwood3333 -- you are making the right decision,

and we all wish that David would tell us how he REALLY feels -- thanks David !

and TOM,

Have you checked the size cables on you LaSalle's Battery and Starter?

You too, might be able to chuck the 12-volt battery -- try 000 (Triple Aught)- it really helps (and I love your '37).

[Guest gossir00]

I mentioned changing the oil pump to a 1941-1953 oil pump to increase oil pressure. What I didn't say is that this only applies to 1934-1940 Series 40 and 1940 Series 50 Buicks. From 1941 forward the oil pump had gears that were 25% larger. Also, some or all of the oil pumps had pot metal bottom plates. The pot metal would belly warp before there were too many miles on the car. To counteract this Buick put out a two piece Kit that included a steel bottom plate and an aluminum or pot metal neck that was separage. You simply screw the neck onto the bottom plate. Later, Buick also sold a cast bottom plate and neck assembly. The cast assembly had a L-shaped neck while the Kit had the neck coming off at about a 45-degree angle. I think that was because they changed the oil pan along the way and it became somewhat deeper.

......something new from the old Buick obsolete parts man (now retired)

Are there any modifications or special install tips one should be aware of to install a '1941-1953 oil pump in a 1940 Series 40?

thanks

Rick G.

BCA #45471

[FLYER15015]

Grossir00,

We need to keep "Dynaflash" going on this oil pump info.

There have been numerous threads on low oil pressure "fix's". Some hold oil and some don't (a pun).

If Dyna has a low cost alternative to running straight crude in the crank case, to boost pressure, I'd like the specifics.

I've sanded the bottom of the housing and sanded the pot metal plate, and stretched the relief spring 1/2" to get 15# @ a hot idle, BUT if different gears or even a new housing will slip right in, I guess I would like the details, for those who follow......

Besides this might make a good aftermarket product for someone to start making.......

Mike in Colorado