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Rear Sway Bar Bushings Again


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Following the link provided I found what looks like what we need for the rear sway bars on our cars.  Even though the page says it is for the Front Strut Rod Bushing -1990 Buick Reatta, I connected with Amanda through the Live Chat function on their site anyway. A transcript of that chat follows:

 

Here is the transcript you requested:
 

System[5:50 AM] Hello John! You are now being connected to CARiD LiveChat. Please wait while we connect you to a Product Specialist.

System[5:50 AM] Thank you for waiting. You are now chatting with Amanda.

Amanda Lisov 886[5:50 AM] Hello, John, how may I assist you today?

John[5:50 AM] Hello Amanda,

John[5:51 AM] I'm wanting to get some dimensions for the Premium Front Strut Rod bushing Item # 64619071 1990-buick-reatta-suspension-part.

Amanda Lisov 886[5:52 AM]

If you have about 5 minutes, I will put you on hold and look into this.

John[5:52 AM] I do.

Amanda Lisov 886[5:54 AM] Dimensions (HxLxW)  3.292"x 4.88"x3.836" http://carid.com/cart.php?rst_cart=0D1E8DEEB97CA8C347C7A997757A06A1

John[5:56 AM] Well that was quick! Thank you for your rapid response to my query. That's all I need for now. Thank you very much!

Amanda Lisov 886[5:56 AM] You are very welcome!

Amanda Lisov 886[5:56 AM] Have a great day!

John[5:57 AM] You too. Bye.

Amanda Lisov 886[5:57 AM] Thank you! Goodbye!

 

With pen and paper, I then drew a box with those dimensions. I thought, hey that's WAY too big. that can't be right. So I got my digital readout calipers set them to metric and plugged on the same numbers... WAY too small. So I got on the Live Chat thing again and fortunately, I was reconnected with Amanda. Here is how that chat went:

 

Here is the transcript you requested:
 

System[6:16 AM] Hello John F.! You are now being connected to CARiD LiveChat. Please wait while we connect you to a Product Specialist.

System[6:16 AM] Thank you for waiting. You are now chatting with Amanda.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:16 AM] Hello, John F., how may I assist you today?

John F.[6:17 AM] Hello Amanda, I just "spoke" with you a few minutes ago. I requested dimensions for the Premium Front Strut Rod bushing Item # 64619071 1990-buick-reatta-suspension-part. You sent the following:

John F.[6:18 AM] Dimensions (HxLxW): 3.292"x 4.88"x3.836" http://carid.com/cart.php?rst_cart=0D1E8DEEB97CA8C347C7A997757A06A1.

John F.[6:19 AM] These dimensions don't make sense to me . it would be a rather large bushing and I don;t think that it would be that large.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:19 AM] Yes, that's correct

Amanda Lisov 886[6:19 AM] The dimensions we found from the manufacturer

Amanda Lisov 886[6:20 AM] As per manufacturer, it will fit 1990 Buick Reatta

John F.[6:23 AM] OK then, these are not what I'm looking for. The ones I'm looking for would have an overall dimension of 1 1/8"H x 1 3/16"W x 1 1/4".

Amanda Lisov 886[6:24 AM] but for 1990 Buick Reatta?

John F.[6:25 AM] Yes for a 1990 Buick Reatta. They look exactly like the one in the photo shown on your web page but of the dimensions I sent you.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:26 AM] The pictures are just for reference. Please let me check if we have any that you need

John F.[6:27 AM] OK, but I need to tell you that the ones I'm looking for are for the rear sway bar. They attach to the ends of the bar and are bolted to the lugs on the rear struts.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:29 AM] That is the issue, as the ones you asked are for front

Amanda Lisov 886[6:29 AM] let me check the exact ones for rear

Amanda Lisov 886[6:31 AM] Unfortunately, all we have are 3.488"x 4.695"x3.595"

Amanda Lisov 886[6:31 AM] You can check eBay or Amazon also. Maybe they have it available

John F.[6:32 AM] I understand but, there is nothing that looks like that on the front end of any Reatta of any of the four model years that they were produced. I own four of them and do all of my own work so I can tell you that those pictured on your site do not belong on the Reatta.

John F.[6:33 AM] Thank you for the suggestion but I've exhausted those sources.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:33 AM] I understand, but the pictures are for reference only. And the dimensions are different

John F.[6:34 AM] OK, thanks for helping me today Amanda. I appreciate it.

John F.[6:34 AM] Have a great day... bye.

Amanda Lisov 886[6:34 AM] My pleasure!

Amanda Lisov 886[6:34 AM] You do the same! Goodbye!

 

And there you have it. I didn't pursue the matter any further. It sure looks like the part we need but... If someone wants to buy the part and see what shows up in the mail, then we'd know for sure. The price of $8.80 seems awful cheap for a bushing the size quoted to me by Amanda but about right for a bushing the size we need.

 

John F.

 

Edited by Machiner 55 (see edit history)
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I just tried to find out what it would cost to get it delivered. $11.00 freight on top of $8.80 makes it just under $20.00. I'm passing as I have an extra set that I bought from Jim Finn in backstock. There are a number of Rivs out at Gibson's that I will look at this fall when the weather is cooler and I feel more like crawling under a car

 The "free" ones that the one poster found may not work real long as the two pieces join in the middle where the rubbing and moving of the sway bar will be.

 But it is a start on an answer and the price was right. Installation is certainly a lot easier with a split bushing.

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Dave,

 

I too checked to see how much it would cost but I chose the # to buy to be 2. So 2@ $8.80=$17.60 Plus 11.00 for S&H= $28.60. Just shy of 30 bux.

A lot to spend on the wrong part. I'm sure I can send them back but of course I'd have to pay $11.00 to return them. Plus, I believe Car id charges a 15% restocking fee that would only be about $2.64, So, for a grand total of $13.64 we can see it they are the correct ones. Why order two, you ask? Well... if on the off chance they send the ones we can use, I wouldn't have to pay another $11.00 for the shipping of another one to make the set of two needed.

 

I agree on your take of the two part system mentioned. Those might work if the center hole was bigger than the hole required for the bolt. That way a section of rubber tubing with an ID that matches the bolt diameter and an OD that matches the ID of the two grommets could be bonded together with superglue. (yes, superglue is a pretty good bonding agent for rubber parts.) In this case one grommet could be glued to the rubber tube then inserted into the sway bar. then the other grommet could be slipped onto the rubber tube as the glue was dabbed on, Squeeze the two grommets on either side of the hole in the sway bar together over the tube and, in the time required to glue you thumb and for-finger to the grommets you will have a solid and strong bushing (sans finger and thumb) installed on the sway bar. (Hope this makes sense)

 

John F.

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I might as well throw this out there before someone else thinks of it. Use garden hose. It probably will have to be replaced on a annual basis but the price is right. It fits right in with some of the short cuts some are interested in taking...

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  • 7 months later...
3 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS HERE

Hm, this is a confusing one.. because in my journey of restoring the rear suspension, I found that despite it being listed as a sway-bar bushing (perhaps for other models) for our car, it is actually the rear suspension cross-member bushing.  It's a pretty big one..   

 

These pictures show the bushing, and where it attaches to the body.

2012-07-17_16-39-06_939.jpg

2012-07-17_16-39-15_831.jpg

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Their catalog listing is screwed up by showing left and right. The part number is correct, and is the same for both sides. The same bushings used in the 87-93 Allanté, the Eldorado through 2002, DeVille through at least 1995, the Toronado 86-92 and Riviera 86-93. The bad news is they are essentially non-existent now. I will almost guarantee you that ordering through that site will result in follow up that the order was kicked out as the parts are not available.

 

I picked up 2 pairs of these from a dealer in Nebraska a couple of week ago as I'm getting ready to comlletely redo the back end on one of my cars and will have another to do after that. A nationwide parts search found the two pair I bought from the NE dealer, one pair in Alabama, that they refused to sell (!!) as they were marked on the box "do not sell" or so the guy on the phone told me, and one pair at a place in Puerto Rico, that I didn't bother to call on.

 

Outside of those leads, I found nothing. Perhaps some control arm bushings of the correct dimensions could be found with enough research. The next solution will be urethane bushings, maybe having to be custom made. It sucks that GM has dropped support for these. There is no off the shelf aftermarket solution I can find, and if these go bad you are dead in the water as the car is unsafe to drive if these bushings are shot.

 

Getting used ones is not a good solution even from the south/southwest as the rubber will still have some deterioration and they are not easy to remove. A special Kent Moore bushing press tool kit is required (that I bought for about $200 used) to get them in and out without damage to the bushing and cradle. Most yards will not have the tools or willingness to pull these, and would likely want to sell a complete rear cradle instead for a couple of hundred bucks plus shipping (another $100+ easy).

 

Stuff like this will be the bane of our existence in terms not keeping these cars in good drivable condition. The cost and hoops to be jumped through just to maintain a functional and safe car will get to be (or already is) insurmountable for casual fans, and painful even for fanatics like me.

 

For a little perspective, I'm getting ready to rebuild the back end on my 91 coupe as the most recent safety inspection revealed a bad rear strut, seepage from one caliper and rusty brake lines. Since the rear cradle has superficial rust, I decided to go all out so it will be as new when I'm done.

 

Here is the damage so far: sandblast and repaint rear cradle (I had a spare on hand) $100. New rear struts, $130 for the pair. New rear wheel bearings (car has 108,3xx on it, no sense in reusing old ones) $200 for the pair. Strut mount hardware kit, another $35. Kent Moore tool kit to remove and install bushings (this also does inner and outer control arm bushings) $200. Inner and outer control arm bushings, both sides, about $100. Main upper and lower cradle to body bushings and hardware, $130.

 

I haven't even bought the caliper or the brake line and fittings yet, that'll be another couple of hundred easy as I use special no-rust alloy brake line material called SUR&R, not steel. All that and at least a weekend killed to get it all done. This is to the point of  no longer being practical for someone who just "likes" the Reatta. Seems to me you really have to want these cars to go through this effort and expense. I do, but am unsure of how much dedication to the cause there is out there among other owners. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Ok, that makes two of us. We may be the last ones standing at this rate. Then again, if it gets to be too much, maybe I'll go get that restored 1952 MG convertible I saw recently and say the hell with it all. The effort to enjoyment ratio is getting a little lopsided at the moment. And the cost... well I guess it's still money better spent than a weekend of coke and strippers. It is, right?

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Good stuff Kdirk.  Sounds like what I did exactly to mine in 2012.    It was during that experience that I had bought 1627757.    ( I believe I bought it from Daniel.  He had ordered a set for the rear-sway bar and it turned out to be wrong.  I believe these were for the rear suspension cross member (cradle) to-frame bushings.  

 

Can you confirm? 

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I just checked, and as noted back in (

)

You can see Daniel did buy these and it didn't work.  

 

GM07-036  seems to be a accurate diagram from what I can physically see on our cars:

On which, 1627757 is referred to as the 'BUSHING, RR SUSP SUPT'  which matches my experience.  

If this is right, people want #30 and #11  (   01628813  &  01627769   )

 

I just got under the car to check.  It was a very hard camera angle without the rear lifted.

 

Here is my best attempt to show.

 

Reatta_labelled_Bushings_Rear.jpg

 

Rear_suspension_Reatta.jpg

Edited by Fox W. (see edit history)
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Fox, that is correct per the annotated photo posted. Supply of part number 1627757 is all but exhausted at this point, by my recent research. Sure, probably a few hiding under a rock someplace but nothing that will be easy to turn up now. I can't speak to the other two part numbers, though I do have a couple of sets of the poly bushings Daniel had made a while back waiting to go.

 

These are the sort of parts that are going to give us wanting to preserve these cars fits going forward. If you need them (and eventually you will) you are flat out hosed, because the car will not be safe to drive if these bushings are shot (will be metal on metal and the bolt will eventually wobble out the mounting holes in the body rail) to say nothing of the noise and handling issues created by worn bushings in this location.

 

Now, I have enough spares (3 sets, including one bought previously for my DeVille but not yet used) that I can do three cars which will then be good for another 20-30 years (hopefully). Chances are I won't need to do them again before the car - or me - is permanently off the road for other reasons. But, like the cars that have been prematurely scrapped due to failed Teves pump units, I can foresee otherwise perfectly decent Reattas (and likely other well maintained fwd GM E and K platform cars of this same era) getting retired and scrapped out for lack of a fairly simple part because it just isn't available. And the wastefulness in that just pisses me off.

 

An aftermarket urethane bushing can possibly be found, and can certainly be made (at some cost, thereby making it less likely for someone to undertake the project to begin with) but how many people will go to that effort? There is an inherent laziness I see, and the really nice parts car that Dave recently cleaned up on is the perfect example of this. He suspects a Teves problem is all that was wrong with it, and the owner just decided to scrap the car probably based on bad info from a lazy and uninformed mechanic.

 

Given the opportunity I'd have bought the car for more than the scrap value that it was sold for and fixed it, keeping it on the road. Instead, it got junked, almost certainly for a problem that wasn't that significant. Sure, lots of good parts were obtained from it (I'll even be getting a couple of things from it) but in a case like this where the car was really clean, I'd prefer it stayed in service. Parting a rusted out beater isn't such a loss; those cars arent getting restored as there is no justification for it based on demand and current pricing. Killing off a nice clean one for want of a few parts that are not that difficult to get - provided you know where to look - is stupid. Scrapping an otherwise nice car because a couple of $80 body mount bushings aren't available is a crime. And it will happen, because most people won't bother jumping through hoops to find a solution. 

 

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I saw that about the Teves car. :(        I totally agree..  and it's good you have some 1627757 spares, because that means you can also work on matching a replacement, if you will.  Also consider Smooth-on,  you can cast it, and then make your own urethane version.  I've done it before, it isn't very hard to get reasonable results even the first couple tries.   

 

I mainly just wanted to wrap up the matter of the location of 1627757 ; I realize this was likely redundant info that many knew.    I had mine replaced with the restore (Yes I'm the crazy person that did restore a rusty beater...  ok not too rusty and not beaten, but it was a daily, including NE Winters)   The Reatta is a total survivor next to everything else I saw.. perhaps it is that electroplated primer dip they gave it.. but I'm amazed how minimal the rust was when we took everything apart.. and zero outside sheet-metal rust.

 

No way I'm letting some rubber be the death of this thing.

 

 I have one of Daniel's as well (shown as #11, 1627769) ;  works good.   I think finding a compatible #30 should prove easy enough, and certainly making it.     

1627757 on the other hand is a serious bushing, metal insert and takes a lot of wear..  Mine was nearly destroyed.. no other bushing on the car was nearly that bad.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 11 months later...
5 hours ago, padgett said:

I'd be interested in a set.

Still have a couple sets. $49.00 per set. I have red and black. 

I am hoping to drop the price on the next run, but that is a few months away.

Shoot me a message when you want them.

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