1956 Cadillac Commercial Car - Rear Drum Pulling Tool

[Guest rsd9699]

I have tried to remove the rear brake drums on this commercial car and tried heating/cooling/tapping the drum.

It is still stuck as tight as when I first got the car.

I would like to buy/rent the gm tool for brake drum removal.

The tools usage spans 1956 thru 1959.

Thanks

Ron

Edited December 24, 2012 by rsd9699
spelling (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

For general principles, have you tried to "unadjust" the rear brake shoes from their normal adjustment position? Might be that the shoes are "bonded" to the inner surface of the brake drum (i.e., possibly from rust?). Will the drums turn with the axle shafts?

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[keiser31]

For general principles, have you tried to "unadjust" the rear brake shoes from their normal adjustment position? Might be that the shoes are "bonded" to the inner surface of the brake drum (i.e., possibly from rust?). Will the drums turn with the axle shafts?

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

Or the brake drums could have ridges that are holding them to the shoes.

[Guest rsd9699]

I used some shim stock to verify the shoes are not sticking to drum.

Can not check for grooves but the feeler gage did not 'HANG UP' on any of the positions I checked.

Ron

[Roger Zimmermann]

The problem with Cadillac Commercial vehicles is the method the rear drums are attached to the shaft: it's a conus (like some Chrysler and Studebaker) and, unless the proper tool is available, the drums cannot be removed. Series 62 and 60 have a more modern set-up; the drums can be removed without problem

[Guest rsd9699]

Mr. zimmermann is correct. The commercial cars have an extra plate and longer lug bolts. Per the shop manual, it moves the brake drum out 1 inch on both sides to get greater cooling of the brake drums.

Any help with this problem would be great!

Ron

[W_Higgins]

This Blue Point model is the most stout puller on the market. You might find one for less if you hunt around (this listing was handy).

Until recent years Blue Point still made this model, so they are fairly common. You get a much better pull with one of these than the more common lighter duty types.

When you reassemble, do not put lubricant or antiseize on the axle as it will make the problem worse the next time you go to disassemble. This application is designed to be assembled dry. If you really have to crank it down, stand clear and let it sit. Under a lot of stress it can send the hub flying clear of the axle. Put something soft on the floor, too, and best to leave the axle nut on (backed off a turn) if there's room. Don't whack on the screw. The only purpose that serves is to ruin the puller. If you need to shock it while under stress, burp the hub with an air hammer.

Years ago I worked on a '57 Cadillac Flower Car with your problem. The previous shop spent hours working on it and was to the point of cutting the drums to remove them. Five minutes with my puller got them off.

Edited December 27, 2012 by W_Higgins (see edit history)