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How To Move Car W/ Dynaflow Removed?


Guest shadetree77

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Guest shadetree77

My Dad and I ran into a little snag yesterday. Long story short, my '52 is up on platforms and jackstands right now because I recently removed the Dynaflow for rebuild. It's going to be several months before the Dynaflow goes back in so I wanted to re-install the rear axle, take the car down, and roll it back under the car port to clean and re-paint the engine compartment/front clip. We put the rear end back in today but when we began to let the car down, the rear end shifted forward to the point where the tires were being pressed against the inner fender wells. There is no transmission connected to the torque tube to keep the rear axle from shifting forward or backward. We didn't think about this happening. Obviously, the car cannot be moved around like this. The rear end shifts out of place freely with the slightest movement of the car. Does anyone know how (if) I can roll the car around with the trans. out? We thought about trying to secure the front of the torque tube with some heavy duty wire or something but I don't know if that would work. Any ideas?

Edited by shadetree77 (see edit history)
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seems half the cars I load or unload have no tranny or engine for that matter. I always carry some stiff wire, clothes hanger wire will work, and just rig it from the bolt holes of the torque tube flange up to the tranny cross member and back to I think some holes in the frame to keep it from moving backward and forward when loading and unloading. Not high tech or pretty at all but it work.

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You could use a couple of come-alongs to hold it in place. When I was ummmmmm 17 and had my first '60 Buick the flat rate mechanics would jack the rear end back with them to service the transmission or replace the reverse strut. One in each direction should do the job.

Bernie

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Robert,

I have run into that problem trying to move parts cars with no transmission or no engine. If trying to pull the car forward, run a tow strap or a come-a-long around the rear axle housing, and then connect it to one of the front cross members or the frame somewhere in front of the rear axle, and tighten things up until your rear wheels/axle are centered properly in the wheel wells. If trying to push the car backwards, wrap the come-a-long or tow strap around the rear axle and connect to rear bumper or rear cross member just ahead of the rear bumper, and tighten it up as before.

Pete Phillips

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Guest Rob McDonald

ROBERT, you've got the world's best Buick advice comin' atcha but they're all missing something important - DO NOT SCRATCH YOUR NEW PAINT! Coat hangers and cable comealongs will play havoc with the finish on your rear axle and frame. Hehehe

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Guest shadetree77

Thanks for all of the help guys. I ended up using a lot of heavy duty wire and some extremely large zip ties. I didn't have any small straps or a come along lying around. I had a set of those small straps at one point but I think they left with my Brother when he moved to Montana. Time to buy some more I guess. You're right Bob, I used those a lot. They are quite handy. Anyway, the wire has held up good so far. The rear axle stayed right in place while we lowered the car today. We'll see if they hold up when we roll the car around tomorrow.

Chris, dollies would work if we were in a garage. We're in a gravel driveway though so no dice. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Rob, no worries. I didn't see any scratches today. That rust encapsulating paint is tough stuff. I don't know if you've ever seen the infomercials for POR15 but they take a hammer to that stuff on a plate they painted with it and it doesn't even scuff. Strong stuff.

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Small ratchet straps work well and don't mar anything. The ones I use come 4 to 6 in a pack and are inexpensive. They live in my pick up and I've used them many times for impromptu tie down problems.......Bob

+1

That is how I have replaced many torque ball retainers. Use one on each side.

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