I need some referrals on a Good Chrome Shop

[Guest Rob J]

Since we are on the subject of chrome, I'd like to send some interior pieces to get replated, but with all the horror stories out there, I need a recommendation on a good shop that specializes in Pot Metal. I'd like to send the following interior pieces. I know the switch plates are going to be a bear to work on.

My paint and body guy recommended Advanced Plating in Tennessee. I sent them these pics of the pieces, and I about fell out of my chair with what they quoted me. I realize that quality chrome work isn't cheap, but I wasn't expecting it to be that expensive.

Edited December 6, 2012 by Rob J (see edit history)

[petelempert]

Have you checked to see if there is a local guy who can do it? I would think so in Miami. You might have to drive a way to get to one. Basically, all the big cities have chased the platers out of town due to the increased regs on chemicals and water issues. That said, I bet there are a few left on the outskirts of Miami that could do it. I would rather trust the work to a local shop. They will be cheaper. You won't have to ship your stuff and potentially lose it. You can get a feel for the guy and negotiate on price. Plus, you'll have a neck to choke if it doesn't go well. If possible, go to a local show (rods, classics, low riders...whatever) and ask around. Chances are you'll find a solid source. PRL

[lrlforfun]

OK Rob: A few suggestions here. For the power window deals, try to find some western ones. Even my worst cars have cleaned up like new. They are not too expensive unless you find a *^&$% on the ebay that is addicted to practice and wants you to buy it now for $250. The window trim is a different story. First I would clean each and every piece with flitz, #000 steel wool and wipe them to perfection with a micro fiber cloth. They will look dramatically better. Then as Pete suggested, find a local chrome shop that you get a decent vibe with and go that way.

In 30 years of fixing up cars I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS got a much lower estimate on paint and metal work if the vehicle was detailed before the estimator looked at it and I'm guessing that it could be true (or perhaps not) on re-plating small trim pieces. Good luck, Mitch

[Guest Rob J]

OK Rob: A few suggestions here. For the power window deals, try to find some western ones. Even my worst cars have cleaned up like new. They are not too expensive unless you find a *^&$% on the ebay that is addicted to practice and wants you to buy it now for $250. The window trim is a different story. First I would clean each and every piece with flitz, #000 steel wool and wipe them to perfection with a micro fiber cloth. They will look dramatically better. Then as Pete suggested, find a local chrome shop that you get a decent vibe with and go that way.

In 30 years of fixing up cars I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS got a much lower estimate on paint and metal work if the vehicle was detailed before the estimator looked at it and I'm guessing that it could be true (or perhaps not) on re-plating small trim pieces. Good luck, Mitch

It's funny you mention that Mitch, as I was thinking the same thing when I sent them the pics. If you look close, you can see one trim piece that I cleaned up quite a bit. It's the shiny one with no rust stains on it. BTW, with all those cars you have, have you got a spare set of nice power window with power vent switch plates to sell me.

Rob.

[pyntre]

It's funny you mention that Mitch, as I was thinking the same thing when I sent them the pics. If you look close, you can see one trim piece that I cleaned up quite a bit. It's the shiny one with no rust stains on it. BTW, with all those cars you have, have you got a spare set of nice power window with power vent switch plates to sell me.

Rob.

Stainless Steel ....A good buffing should bring all the interior pieces back to beautiful shape ... no re -chrome should be needed on that stuff...Pot Metal ....oh boy ...thats the chrome shops tax bill payer...either step up or step out of the way....

[RIVNIK]

Stainless Steel ....A good buffing should bring all the interior pieces back to beautiful shape ... no re -chrome should be needed on that stuff...Pot Metal ....oh boy ...thats the chrome shops tax bill payer...either step up or step out of the way....

hey Rob, those armrest switch plates are in rough shape indeed! Chances of finding pristine ones are slim at this point. Ive conducted several searches over the years with all the usual club members and vendors and was only able to turn up less pitted ones after returning at least one and eating one or two. However, I can highly recommend Space Coast Plating in Melbourne Fl,they have a sterling reputation in the central Fl area and are very reasonable. They make a big road trip around this area once a month to pick up and drop off at all the Harley shops they exclusively service and will rendezvous with a customer. It would not surprise me if they also headed your way even though it is a couple of hours away.Ask almost anyone at a Fl car show and they will tell you Space Coast Plating.In the mean time I will try to dig my old ones out first chance and get back to you. they are slightly pitted but a huge improvement over yours. Also, last time I looked there was a decent pair on Ebay. Good luck, Drew

[Don McClair]

If you are willing to take the time on the stainless trim they can be brought back to new condition. Dents can be removed by using a trim hammer and anvil available from Eastwood. They also sell a book on how to restore stainless steel trim. Great care must be taken when hammering out a dent and take that process very gently. If necessary you then can file out the imperfections using a relatively fine file. Then comes the sanding process. If you have to file you should start with 320 grit sandpaper and always sand in the direction of the length of the piece of trim. To remove minor scratches ,and if you have had to use the 320 grit sandpaper, start wet sanding with 400 wet and dry sand paper. Then comes 600 grit, followed by 800 grit and then 1000 grit all wet sanded. I like to go a step further by using 1200 and then 1500 grit paper and wet sanding. Then comes the buffing utilizing several different compounds on the buffing wheel and a minimum of two different wheels. If you notice a scratch after getting to the finer paper then you need to back up and work on that scratch. This whole process is very time consuming and you can expect to spend a couple of hours or more on a single piece, but you can make each piece look as good as new. There are a number of video's on You Tube on how to do this by searching on Polishing Stainless Steel Trim.

Good luck,

[Guest Rob J]

Guys, I'm not worried about all the interior and exterior Stainless Trim. I have a buffing wheel, some heavy duty gloves, and all the rouges. I've restored a decent amount of stainless in past restorations before the Riv. The interior trim I have pictured is not Stainless, it is chrome plated steel. Luckily, the Stainless on this car is in rather good shape, so while it needs a good cleaning and buffing, it is mostly straight.

Thanks for the lead on Space Coast Plating, I'll give them a buzz.

Keep the referrals coming. Rob. And, if anybody has any switch plates in good shape, let me know.

[Guest Rob J]

Pot Metal ....oh boy ...thats the chrome shops tax bill payer...either step up or step out of the way....

Your not lying. Advanced quoted me $375 each switch plate, and he said he'd not be able to fill the pits in the ribbed area's. Talk about bending over and grabbing your ankles:eek:

[60FlatTop]

All the items you showed are chrome plated. Definitely clean all the parts thoroughly. Bill Hirsch sells a chrome polish called Simichrome. It works great.

On the diecast pieces use an Exacto knife to dig out those bumps and boogers the best you can. Then polish all the tarnish away. Use lacquer thinner to clean the polish and paint them with clear "epoxy" spray from a rattle can.

You will find the stuff looks pretty good.

Then you can watch Ebay for really nice original pieces or nice rechrome from an abandoned restoration. I have bought rechromed and powder coated Jaguar stuff on Ebay that was gently wrapped in 20 year old newspapers.

Always try to hold the finished product in your hands before you buy or at least see good pictures. On rechroming, a cynical old friend used to say your chances are 50/50. They either do it right or they don't. You don't have to be as cynical. Just minimize the risk of disappointment.

Bernie

[JZRIV]

Since we are on the subject of chrome, I'd like to send some interior pieces to get replated, but with all the horror stories out there, I need a recommendation on a good shop that specializes in Pot Metal. I'd like to send the following interior pieces. I know the switch plates are going to be a bear to work on.

My paint and body guy recommended Advanced Plating in Tennessee. I sent them these pics of the pieces, and I about fell out of my chair with what they quoted me. I realize that quality chrome work isn't cheap, but I wasn't expecting it to be that expensive.

You're encountering the same thing I outlined in my last Riview article on my chrome plating experience. This part of a restoration is single handidly a huge reason restoration costs in general have soared.

Whatever you do be very careful when shopping "price". If a piece is damaged by gouging or the sharp edges are rounded off during the stripping and prep process the piece is ruined and they can't fix it. It all comes down to how particular you are. In general, while clean pot metal for Rivs is somewhat available, is also somewhat scarce to locate and some pieces are getting pricey. If you have high expectations communicate that to the plater prior to getting a quote.

When I got my quote, after getting back up off the floor, I said yes because I knew the quality would be perfect and had no fear pot metal would be damaged in any way. That was most important to me as I did not want to deal with a fight battling over the unacceptable quality which can be a subjective item between the plater and customer.

Edited December 7, 2012 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[Guest 63 rivenge]

Remember this when going for chrome, "Good is not Cheap and Cheap is not Good" ......Iam from the Phila area, and a good shop is DGM Chrome and powder coating on Torresdale ave,(215 331 0960 ) Phila Pa.........his name is Don, and a well respected plater

[abandg]

Rob, i have a full set of interior headliner trim rechromed all 11 pieces. 700 plus shipping. I have 600 invested in the set. You can call me at 610-359-8901 if interested. Thanks Gene.

[Don McClair]

Rob, sorry for my mistake thinking the interior pieces were stainless steel. However here is a link to some spray on chrome that is done at Jay Leno's garage. They do a hood emblem that is badly pitted. They don't show the sanding, body filler and applying primer to that piece but the end result is amazing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-1cTpSZ1l8

If the link does not work go on You Tube and search for "Jay Leno's Garage Spray on Chrome." The process does not require any special mask or area.

[Guest Rob J]

Yes Don, I have seen that system and others similar to it. Problem being, it requires a healthy investment in the equipment needed to perform the process. It really isn't geared for the home DIY hobbyist guy, but more as a retail alternative to the typical chroming process. I know of several guys whom are thinking of opening a small business with this system. Your looking at about 8-12k in upfront costs for the equipment.

[Guest Chromeman]

There are many chrome platers out there that are really good. I work for one personally, but I am not trying to sell myself for them. My advice is look at well known name businesses and choose according to the quality of parts you want done. In other words, do not go to a plater who specializes in concourse work and expect reasonable prices on parts that you only want driver quality work. If he specializes in a quality do not ask for a different quality or else you will probably regret it whether price or condition in the end. Many platers can only do as good as the parts that come in. They can only charge what the customer is willing to pay and then can only work as far as the customer is willing to pay.

I handle all plating responsibilities and legal disposal and purchasing of chemicals. This is a very expensive process. THe polishers are very skilled men. The ones in my shop and the ones in a neighboring plating shop get paid piece rate. THey do great work, but they expect to get paid well for what they do. I met one guy at another plating shop who never made less than $2,500 a week in piece rate as a custom polisher. So again I say the costs to get the materials and the skilled laborers is already putting prices high.

Pauls Plating I hear has great show and concourse work. (More $$$ than Advanced)

The Finishing Touch in Chicago does excellent work on show and concourse parts. (More $$$ than Advanced) ( check him out on youtube. he has some great videos title is Joe Boritz... not sure rest of title but should get you to it I think.)

Advanced Plating as you put it is expensive but they to do good work.

ABC Plating near Detroit MI (Bob charges around Advanced) Great show Chrome plater If you go here let him know his buddy Jake from Proctor's Metal Finishing referred you. Never know you might get a better price.

Proctor's Metal Finishing in Muskegon (where I work is cheaper than Advanced) He specialize in original, clean and shine, driver, and sometimes do show chrome qualities. When I used to do the pricings the switch plates I believe would have been $175-250 each depending on condition for driver quality, which is our most common quality. We also call it 5 foot appearance)

Custom Metal Finishing IN in Hagerstown is good to. They do exact same qualities as Proctor's and typically same prices. The owner here is the brother to the owner of Proctor's.

good luck

[Guest Gseago]

Rob did you have your interior pieces plated, if so where and what did you think of the quality and pricing?

[Guest Ichrome]

Quality metal finishing. 121 n. Craft hwy. Prichard, al 36610 251- 456-4018