product to keep from rusting

[GARY F]

i plan to strip all the paint from my 63GP a little at a time. what is the best product to put on the metal to keep from rusting until i am done? also how long does it last & what do you use to remove it befor painting? thanks

[RansomEli]

If you plan to strip a little at a time, my advice would be to cover the bare metal with a 2K epoxy primer sealer as you work. Primers do not protect against rust. Primer sealers protect longer, but are still not rust-proof. This will protect the metal for a time (maybe several weeks).

Best bet, apply primer sealer and a thin top coat to protect your work. Then, when you are serious about your final paint job, you can sand off the temporary paint and put on your finish coat.

P.S. Don't go cheap on the primer sealer. You want a name brand and the best you can afford. Your final paint coat will thank you.

[DavidMc]

I use one of the phosphoric acid type rust converters on the bare metal in that situation. Providing the car is indoors it will hold the metal from rusting for quite a long time, weeks and maybe months. Then when its time to start the painting you simply repeat the acid treatment in accordance with the instructions to remove any traces of rust leaving the surface ideally prepared for the first coat.

[nickelroadster]

Bill Hirsch makes a product called miracle rust inhibitor that is designed for this purpose. can be rinsed off with water. I would still use a good 2k primer and wouldn't let more than a couple of panels get ahead of the priming process. In no way would I try to strip the whole car before priming some months later.

[NTX5467]

First, I'd not recommend you get to "bare metal" and leave it, even for one day, without something on it -- period. You might not see "rust" per se, but it'll start before you might even suspect! As mentioned, "primers" are porous and are not really good rust protection . . . tried that one time, within two weeks outside, rust was peaking through a heavier coat of gray primer. "Primer Sealers" are more for isolating the top coats from the existing coatings on the vehicle, as I understand it.

If you go shopping in the 3M Automotive Refinish catalog, you'll probably find something like "Metal Prep", which is a water-based "wash" which cleans and rust inhibits the metal so you have some working time in the mix. Still, best to go ahead and prime and paint (consider using some of the satin black paint topcoat) by any means!

In one of the "Trucks!" shows on Powerblock TV, on the particular show they are doing some hail dent "work" on their altered Ford Ranger pickup. The recommendation was to use polyester-based primer rather than epoxy-based primer. The illustration was a chunk of eopxy primer which had been poured into a cup-type holder. As it dried, it shrunk considerably from its original size. As was noted, polyester-based primers won't do that. They continued to dribble some polyester primer into the hail dent depressions and let it cure overnight, then come in the next morning for finish sanding and such--an alternative to using "filler".

I realize it might make sense to strip one panel at a time and then desire to refinish ALL of them at once, but bare metal left bare is just not a good idea. The environment of the work is really important, too, but this can also be a really BIG variable in the experiences of others in doing what you're desiring to do.

In earlier times, going "all the way to bare metal" seemed like the best way to do things. In later years, paint removers surfaced which would (or could be modulated to) go to the original factory primer and "stop", which seems to me to be the best way to do it . . . unless there's a real need to "grind metal" for a dent fix. The OTHER thing is that when metal is ground upon with sufficient force to remove all of the paint, the abrasive wheel will heat the metal somewhat. Possible end result it that you could not only put some dimples in the base metal via sanding with an abrasive wheel, but also heat the metal enough to do similar things. And then, if you use too much grit (lower number), you'll probably need to use some smaller grit to smooth things out enough so that "sand scratches" don't happen in your primer. You want enough "bite" for the primer to adhere too, but not so much as to need a really thick coat(s) of primer to cover them. Plus, if rust is going to "hide", those deeper gouges are great places for it to take hold!

I'd recommend some water-based chemical paint strippers (usually some advertised in some of the single-marque enthusiast magazines, or similar). Much easier to clean up after (the swap meet demonstrations use newspaper to catch the softened paint removed with plastic paddles). NO damage to the base metal, either. Might be a little messy, and need some nitrile gloves for good measure, but a far better way to remove old paint. Plus, I've known some guys who thought they'd sand rather than use stipper . . . every one of them said "Never again" to the air sander method.

Now, if you want to get down to bare metal, smoooth things out, and then clear-coat everything for a DeLorean effect . . . .

Happy Holidays!

NTX5467

Edited November 28, 2012 by NTX5467 (see edit history)

[GARY F]

I want to thank all you guys for your input. now to set my plan in motion. i will probably wiat til spring to do the whole car. i have some other body work to do in the meantime in the garage when it is not to cold.