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code 042 again


Don Hudd

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Hi all, hope your Thanksgiving went well. On to my problem, I keep getting code 042, if I move the wires that attach to the coil pack area it goes away then comes back. Sometimes just in the morning then fine the rest f the day, sometimes not. I have taken the wires off as well as the part they connect to. I don't see any loose wires, but must be because again when I jiggele them around the code will go to history and car runs fine. Any suggestions what to look for or do?

Thanks,

Don

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I had a code 42 the other day with a no start condition. This came after I thought I traced and fixed another problem. I had just driven the fine running car 2 miles and parked it. I wiggled the crank sensor connector a few times and it ran, very poorly, but ran. I drove it 20 miles to home. The connection is not tight and I will be working on it this weekend. Look at the fsm for more diagnosis aids. I'll report back as I learn more.

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I had a code 42 the other day with a no start condition. This came after I thought I traced and fixed another problem. I had just driven the fine running car 2 miles and parked it. I wiggled the crank sensor connector a few times and it ran, very poorly, but ran. I drove it 20 miles to home. The connection is not tight and I will be working on it this weekend. Look at the fsm for more diagnosis aids. I'll report back as I learn more.

I have had a leaky CV joint boot. When I looked at the crank sensor there was quite a bit of gunk around it. I removed it and found the weather pack seal was not sealing very well, and the connection was not tight. I purchased a new crank sensor and cv half shaft. I hope to install them this week.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update and still need help. I have been getting by with wiggling the wires to the coil pack area it the code would go away, today no such luck, it seems to be the white wire with black sripe second from the left. I can't see a break in the wire anywhere. The foam is removed for better seal. I don't know what else to do. Any help out there?

Thanks

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Replace that wire if you have enough skill, or replace the whole connector. You can get another connector with wires attached (a pigtail) from a yard or a vendor on here. If you can solder, that's the best way to reconnect, but good crimped connections can be used.

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You need the harness from a 3.8 motor with a "C" in the VIN code. I would take the entire connector and about 6" -12" of lead wire on it. Then I would go to a trustworthy repair shop and pay to have it done. It should take about 1 hour to do. Plus the cost of solder and shrink tubing [shrink tubing protects the solder joint]. You could even go to an automotive aftermarket electronics shop [stereos, remote starters, etc.] as what you want done is mostly what they do. It could be less expensive that way.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Check with your FLAPS and see if they can test the ICM for you. Many have the capability to do so. May have just wiggled the wire a bit too much though.

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Based on what you are saying I would replace both. Won't cost you more as you can tell the counter guy you need the connector w/leads that go to the ICM as your lead wire is bad as well. They won't care as it is quicker for the parts guy to remove the ICM as he only has to snip the leads. Be sure you get the coil pack as well. Everything should be less then $50.00.

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On the 90 bonne it was a stub with the ICM, Crank Sensor and Cam sensor connectors and a larger connector under the p/s pump. If you can get that whole assembly (about 5' of wire) it is just plug and play.

BTW if the bad connection is at the connector next to the firewall, nothing at the ICM would fix but if have a Magnavox I'd switch for a Delco.

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