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Guest Sidney22
Posted

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and new to Reattas. I'm looking to buy my first one. I have a question about the years. Since 1988 was the first year, is it any smarter for me to buy a 90 or 91 for my "first"? I've been working a lot on restoring 6th generation Toyota Celicas, but this will be my FIRST time to own a Buick. I really like the looks of the Reattas and have wanted one for quite a bit, but know little about them. I'm trying to find the best one I can, for the best price (obviously). Any information here would be greatly apprecaited!

Posted

91 is the easiest to maintain. But 88-89 have a factory touch screen. The 90 really does not put forth any advantages ove the others. Just my opinion. Other thing you will want to look for is no cracked glass and read and understand the brake test for the 88-90s.

Posted

Pretty well agree with Daniel's assessment. I have an 88 and 91. Love both cars but if I have to be 100% honest, I have come to prefer the 88. This has much to do with the touchscreen computer, which is one of the major attractions to the 88 and 89 models. It has the gee-whiz factor that was so prevalent of cutting edge technology in the 80's. Since I grew up in that era, I look back on it as a time of great promise and progress in new technology, especially with regard to computers and cars. So, the 88 is like my own personal rolling museum to remind me of those times. Tech is so ubiquitous now, that no one gives it a second thought.

The 1990 models have the same updated interior (mostly instrumentation, dropped the touchscreen) as the 91, but still have the same powertrain and ABS braking system (Teves) of the 88 and 89 models. If you really like the revised instrumentation that much (the body was the same) then get the 91 as it has an improved 3800 engine and transmission versus the previous 3 years. Also has the Bosch ABS system which is in-arguably easier to maintain than the Teves. 91 also got updated (and IMO nicer) 16" wheels.

Subjectively, the only reasons to consider a 1990 are:

1) If it is too good a deal to pass up, compared to other cars you are considering.

2) You want a convertible. 'Verts were only made in 90 and 91, and very few (under 300) were sold in 91 so your best chance for a drop top is to find a 90. Both command a premium, but the 91 much more so due to both the improvements and the rarity.

Actually, one more potential reason in support of 1990 is if you really want a car with a gold paint job. 1990 was the only year that Driftwood Metallic was offered, and it is a essentially a light shade of gold. So, if you are particular about the color combo, this may bias your decision.

They are all great cars, so don't pass up a 90 that is the color and condition you want if it is available nearby and at the right price. I'm just saying I would try to focus on 88/89/91 if you have the luxury of being particular and have the time and patience to wait for the right car to come up.

KDirk

Guest wally888
Posted

KDirk, great answer!

I have previously owned 6 Reattas and found I wish I had understood the on board diagnostics before my first purchase. Would have saved a lot of dough!

Secondly I learned to carefully check to see if I would have to buy/install new shocks and headlamp bell cranks..

Guest Sidney22
Posted

Thank you all for this valuable information. This does help tremendously. I'm just a little nervous about the touch screen but have to admit that it was the intrigue of the touch screen that drew me to the Reattas originally. I'm going to see a 1988 tomorrow. I already saw a 1989, but it had not been taken care of, and would have needed much more work than I was able to do on it.

Guest steveskyhawk
Posted

Sidney and all,

Kevins advice is spot on. When buying any used car of any kind it is best to buy the best exampe of that car you can afford. Better to spend more up front than to buy cheap and restore. Nice parts for Reattas are very hard to find and when you do find them they aren't cheap. A 91 convertible from west of the rockies would be your best buy at any price.

Posted

88 is the first year and 89 was decontented slightly (fewer buttons, no hidden glove box). Mine is a late 88 and also has a sunroof. Have always meant to ask Barney how many 88 sunroof cars were built since was a late intro.That said my daily driver is a 90 'vert and the top is rarely up.

Guest Sidney22
Posted

So, I saw the 88 today. This is the one I looked at: 1988 Buick Reatta

It was good. I'm still out to lunch on it though, since there are numerous things needing "fixed" that aren't mentioned in this ad. A/C isn't working, no freon, therefore I cannot tell if the compressor is ok. He says it is fairly new. It only has 116,000 (not quite) on it. Tires were bought in 2003 and are still on the car with tread. There are a few pretty decent sized dings in the car, door, top and trunk, that are from his ceiling falling on it at some point in time. The part that stopped me from bring it home is the ABS light always on, and when you put on the brakes, the red brake light also lights up. The antenna is broken and not working (not even hooked up at this time) so the radio is pretty bad. Last, but might be a big deal, I'm not sure.... at some point in time somebody mounted an antenna on the back window for a car phone. Looks to me like the had to cut a hole in the back windshield to mount it there. Anybody know anything different about that? You can see it in the back of the car shot. I'm going to go and SEE a 1991 this coming week, then decide which year I think I need to have, before pursuing actually purchasing one. As somebody who only dabbles in repairing and restoring cars, I think I do not need to buy one that needs a lot of fix up. This one was close.... but the things needing fixed, weren't something I could do personally, and sounded like it could cost me a lot of money. That said, I'm in Texas (where we have to have cars inspected) and this car (in OK) wouldn't pass our inspection as is, so I wouldn't even get to drive it while getting things repaired.

Guest steveskyhawk
Posted

I would run from this car. Keep looking.

Guest Sidney22
Posted

Thanks Ronnie, that will help! I just didn't have a good feeling about this car and now I'm glad I didn't jump in! Will keep looking (with this list.)

Posted (edited)

I don't know what your budget is but the car you looked at sounds like it would barely pass for a $500 parts car. There are lots of cars you can pick up for under $3K and even closer to $2K in much better shape. Just a few cautions, If the AC doesn't work deduct $1,000 even if they swear it only needs a recharge. If the brake lights are on, pass or plan on spending a lot of time and money getting it right. If the windshield is bad, pass. If the weatherstripping is bad, pass. You should be able to get a nice running car with no big issues in the above price range. Minor issues like lazy door windows or bad headlight mechanisms are not a reason to run from a car. Mileage above 160K doesn't leave a lot of life in major components. 1990's seem to be a lot more prevalent for some reason.

Edited by ol' yeller
fat fingers on the keyboard (see edit history)
Posted

Each Reatta I've purchased where the seller has said the a/c needs a re-charge has needed a new compressor.

For $3,500, one should be able to buy a Reatta that needs little work. It's a buyer's market.

Posted
So, I saw the 88 today. This is the one I looked at: 1988 Buick Reatta

It looks better than a $500 parts car. And on the plus side, the seats have the sueded bolsters, which are a unique early '88 feature, and appear to be in good shape. Were there any cracks in the windshield?

It was good. I'm still out to lunch on it though, since there are numerous things needing "fixed" that aren't mentioned in this ad. A/C isn't working, no freon, therefore I cannot tell if the compressor is ok. He says it is fairly new. It only has 116,000 (not quite) on it.

As other have said, it probably needs a new compressor. $500-1K.

Tires were bought in 2003 and are still on the car with tread.

$4-500. Ten year old tires should probably be replaced regardless of mileage. (But I am not a good person to talk...)

There are a few pretty decent sized dings in the car, door, top and trunk, that are from his ceiling falling on it at some point in time.

Need to have a body shop quote you on this. Or are the dings small enough that a 'paintless dent removal' guy can do the work?

The part that stopped me from bring it home is the ABS light always on, and when you put on the brakes, the red brake light also lights up.

The red light when you press the pedal is classic sign of the accumulator needing to be replaced. About $100 and you can do it yourself. May need new ABS sensors to get rid of the yellow light, and most likely the front ones - which are hard to find.

The antenna is broken and not working (not even hooked up at this time) so the radio is pretty bad.

There are a couple of folks here that repair power antennas, or you could use an aftermarket one. Not a show stopper.

Last, but might be a big deal, I'm not sure.... at some point in time somebody mounted an antenna on the back window for a car phone. Looks to me like the had to cut a hole in the back windshield to mount it there. Anybody know anything different about that? You can see it in the back of the car shot.

Those antennas are glued on and inductively coupled. No hole in the glass. I wouldn't worry about it.

I'm going to go and SEE a 1991 this coming week, then decide which year I think I need to have, before pursuing actually purchasing one. As somebody who only dabbles in repairing and restoring cars, I think I do not need to buy one that needs a lot of fix up. This one was close.... but the things needing fixed, weren't something I could do personally, and sounded like it could cost me a lot of money. That said, I'm in Texas (where we have to have cars inspected) and this car (in OK) wouldn't pass our inspection as is, so I wouldn't even get to drive it while getting things repaired.
Posted

Agree with wws944 the 88 is not a parts car - Dont think its worth $3K either though. My 89 (babied and obtained from 1st owner) was much less. It has an intermittent ABS light which doesn't bother me. I can pump the brakes if I need to. That car should be priced around $2K-1.5K. I wish him luck.

Just keep looking you will find something at a nice price.

Thanks Ronnie, that will help! I just didn't have a good feeling about this car and now I'm glad I didn't jump in! Will keep looking (with this list.)
It looks better than a $500 parts car. And on the plus side, the seats have the sueded bolsters, which are a unique early '88 feature, and appear to be in good shape. Were there any cracks in the windshield?

As other have said, it probably needs a new compressor. $500-1K.

$4-500. Ten year old tires should probably be replaced regardless of mileage. (But I am not a good person to talk...)

Need to have a body shop quote you on this. Or are the dings small enough that a 'paintless dent removal' guy can do the work?

The red light when you press the pedal is classic sign of the accumulator needing to be replaced. About $100 and you can do it yourself. May need new ABS sensors to get rid of the yellow light, and most likely the front ones - which are hard to find.

There are a couple of folks here that repair power antennas, or you could use an aftermarket one. Not a show stopper.

Those antennas are glued on and inductively coupled. No hole in the glass. I wouldn't worry about it.

Guest Sidney22
Posted

The front glass on the 88 has 1 little rock hit (not spreading yet) and one that was so small I had to look CLOSELY to see it.

Glad to know that those antenna are glued on and not put through. Thanks for that information. Also, the power seat on the driver's side, only 2 of the adjustments worked. The bottom one did nothing.

Posted

Standard seats, not 16 way, suede/black horn button so early 88. Have to be careful about getting caught up in "it could be easy". Could be a $3k car if shiny and everything worked but looks like it needs $1500-$2k immediately. Check out the '91, if you don't mind the steering wheel, it could be a better car with much better wheels.

Posted

OK, I agree. The '88 is not a $500 parts car. In my defense I just read his description of the car, major dings in several panels, a ruined rear window, AC work needed, and brake issues, I didn't look at the ad. I still don't think it is really a car worth considering, especially at the asking price due to the issues. I have seen several cars in much better condition for the same or less money. Small issues like antenna repair and cell phone antennas and headlight repair are cheaply and easily fixed. Windshields, bodywork, paint, brakelight issues, AC repairs and upholstery are not.

Posted
91 is the easiest to maintain. But 88-89 have a factory touch screen. The 90 really does not put forth any advantages ove the others. Just my opinion. Other thing you will want to look for is no cracked glass and read and understand the brake test for the 88-90s.

If you don't want a touch screen and you don't care for the look of the wheels of the 91, that would be an "advantage" of a 90. Also, just an opinion.

Posted

If you don't want a touch screen and you don't care for the look of the wheels of the 91, that would be an "advantage" of a 90. Also, just an opinion.

Also, if you want a convertible, 90s are way more plentiful, and command less of a premium.

Guest steveskyhawk
Posted (edited)

Any expense finding a car that has never been used in the rust belt is money well spent. A trip out west is far cheaper than fixing a rustbucket's bad fuel tank, rusty brake lines, rusty fuel lines, battery box and reattaching the subframe. When you get all done you will still have a rusty car. Being from the rustbelt myself, I was like many people who grew up there, and had never seen a corrosion free car. We assumed back then that "they are all like that". Not so.

The cars I own and work on are usually from California. In my opinion a truly corrosion free car can be disassembled with hand tools purchased from Sears without the use of WD40. All fastners are reusable. Seafoam is for the seashore.

Edited by steveskyhawk (see edit history)
Posted

Rust is about the only thing that can't be fixed on a Reatta...rust can be chased around the car,but it can"t be fixed [in my opinion]. I would not consider a Reatta which has had the exhaust system replaced because that's a sure sign of a rusted automobile. Steve is 100% correct.

Posted

Having gotten used to cars I can remove the exhaust manifold without breaking a bolt, I agree. Life it too short to work on a rusty car.

Posted
Rust is about the only thing that can't be fixed on a Reatta...rust can be chased around the car,but it can"t be fixed [in my opinion]. I would not consider a Reatta which has had the exhaust system replaced because that's a sure sign of a rusted automobile. Steve is 100% correct.

Well...not entirely true. I had to replace a catalytic converter & muffler (in part due to age and rust) on a 53,000 mile 1990 Reatta - an all SoCal (desert) car. On the flip side, the quickest Reatta I ever owned.

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