Jump to content

65 rivi master cyl


Guest puceriver

Recommended Posts

I had the discussion some time ago with Tom Mooney & Jim Cannon:

---------------------------------------------------

You need to determine which master is currently installed. One version has a shallow hole in the push rod pocket and the other is considerably deeper. The replacement master has to have the same depth hole.

The first year for the dual master was `67 so when asking for a master cylinder for a `67 Buick Riviera one should receive the proper dual master.

Good luck!

Tom Mooney

---------------------------------------------------

The only way to know what you have now, and therefore what you need to replace it with, is to remove the existing master cylinder and look at where the push rod presses against the piston of the master cyl. It will be either a 1/4" indentation or a 1" deep hole.

You must then get a new master cyl. for a 1966-67 "drum-drum" full-size Buick (Riviera will do) with that same amount of indentation in the piston (1/4" or 1").

When you get the new MC, connect front port to front wheels and rear port to rear wheels. You can use the original distribution block if you plug the opening that currently goes to the rear wheels. Run a new line down to the distribution block from the front port. Run a new line down to the same area from the rear port and connect with a union coupling to the line that goes to the rear wheels.

Regards,

Jim Cannon

---------------------------------------------------

Hope it helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Anybody know if there are duel master cyl kits available complete with brake booster for a 65?

Hey, were you able to figure out what booster & dual master cylinder combo works for your 65 Riv? I have a 65 Riv too & I am in the middle of doing research to do the swap also. Please let me know what u found out. Thx in advance.

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a '67 full size Buick drum-drum dual MC and booster combo and it will bolt right up.

You will need to connect front MC port to the distribution block on the frame, plug off the rear port of that block, and connect rear line to rear port of MC with a union and a length of tubing. Leave an S-shape in the lines down from MC to frame, don't make them straight runs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I rebuilt the brakes on my '64 Riviera I bought a NOS master cylinder and sent it to Apple Hydraulics for a bronze sleeve. I rebuilt it with fresh rubber cups. Who knows how long it had been on the shelf. That was around 15 years ago. Everything was supposed to have been gone through last winter. Medical problems have shifted that maybe to next spring. It will include new rubbers, hoses, and probably return springs.

The car was 15 years old when I bought it. I am in my 35th year of ownership and there is a good chance the car will be around for another 50. In the last decade computer technology has helped coin the abbreviation PIA. Two points stand out. If I modify components of my car it is going to be a real PIA in 2064 for my son or nephew to figure out was the hell I did. And I like modified cars; I just had the good taste to buy my cars with similar qualifications to the Classic Car Club of America.

Secondly after 44 years of facilities management and power plant operation I have a long list of how things "got fixed" by removing the "improvements". In one forum string I posted a picture of my '60 Electra and asked "Do you think I would trust the engineering of the brakes on this car to anyone but General Motors?"

Its not that I am totally cynical and opinionated. I did sleeve the NOS master cylinder.

Bernie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a '67 full size Buick drum-drum dual MC and booster combo and it will bolt right up.

You will need to connect front MC port to the distribution block on the frame, plug off the rear port of that block, and connect rear line to rear port of MC with a union and a length of tubing. Leave an S-shape in the lines down from MC to frame, don't make them straight runs.

thank you Jim. now do i will call around for prices on that tomorrow. would you happen to know if its a part carried by local jobbers or is it something i will have to order?? if the answer is "order" any suggestions where??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rock Auto is a decent source for parts like these. I just looked it up for a '67 drum/drum Electra and they have a booster/MC combo for $107 but only one left. Otherwise it looks like they are separate.

One of my '65s had this done sometime in the '70s and they even converted over to disc brakes on the front. Not sure if I am going to pull that and use it on my running '65 yet.

Good luck with the searches.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked the website for Advance Auto and they have a master cylinder / booster combo for about $110 in my area.

These are not an unusual parts; you shouldn't have any problems finding them. Try any of your local jobbers. Just because I can find it in my area doesn't mean there's that particulat jobber inyours. Shop around and I'll bet that you'll find enough that you can do comparison shopping for price or quickness of availability.

Someone on the forum may make a suggestion, like I did with Advance Auto, but that ddoesn't mean that's the only or best place to get something. Check with your local jobbers either on their website, by phone, or just drop by. It's not a bad idea to form some kind of relationship with a jobber; they'll be more likely to dig deeper into some of their resources (books behind the counter with every part number in it) if they know you'll be coming back. Keeping these guys supplying vintage parts may help them keep them in stock as well. Besides, you don't have to pay shipping & handling if you buy locally.

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a '67 full size Buick drum-drum dual MC and booster combo and it will bolt right up.

You will need to connect front MC port to the distribution block on the frame, plug off the rear port of that block, and connect rear line to rear port of MC with a union and a length of tubing. Leave an S-shape in the lines down from MC to frame, don't make them straight runs.

Hello Jim,

dont mean to pester you. but I can use some direction. I ordered a MC & booster set for a 67 Rivi from O'reilly's today. it arrived same day...sweet. But when I went to pick it up I didn't bring it home until I could get some advice on my concerns. the MC brake line ports were on the opposite side of the MC in comparison to the old one...no big deal right i plan on running new lines to the distribution block...my concern is that the size of the ports are a lot bigger than my old ones...the new brake lines they had for sale were pre flared with the fittings already on both ends of the lines...my existing brake lines i believe are 1/4...the new lines they sell that fit the MC are like 5/16 with the huge fittings...should i just find a place to buy new brake lines without the fittings and flare them myself and stick to 1/4 inch lines??? or will the bigger lines make any difference?? i kinda want things to look uniform

thanks, david

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rock Auto is a decent source for parts like these. I just looked it up for a '67 drum/drum Electra and they have a booster/MC combo for $107 but only one left. Otherwise it looks like they are separate.

One of my '65s had this done sometime in the '70s and they even converted over to disc brakes on the front. Not sure if I am going to pull that and use it on my running '65 yet.

Good luck with the searches.

Mike

thanks Mike. RockAuto had the same one i ordered thru O'reilly's today. I had some questions brake lines I just posted. prob nothing big to you guys. I'm sure I'll get some good advice soon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use any size tubing you want. Smaller diameter is easier to bent and form the lines you want. You will end up having to make your own flares, I suspect, because it would be pure chance that you find tubing with the ends you need in the length you need.

Yes, the tube nuts on the new MC are different than on the old. In fact, GM made those 2 ports on the dual MC different sizes so that an idiot mechanic could not accidentally force fit the front wheels to the rear port and rear to front. So you need to start up at the MC with 2 different size tubing nuts and work your way down to the frame.

mastercylinderinstalled7eh.jpg

You must use a double flare on the end of the tubing. O'Reilley will do a tool loan to you with the special tool you need to make the double flare. Do not cut the tubing with one of those little wheels that you turn around the tubing and then keep tightening the screw to push the wheel further into the tubing. You can not double flare tubing when it has been cut with one of them. Cut it with a hacksaw. Dress up the end of the tubing with a file before flaring.

If you are doing this on a '63, you have to move the brake light switch down to the union that you are using for the rear brakes.

I bought all the stuff I needed for tubing and nuts from Inline Tube:

Inline tube The brake plumbing experts

Brakes are a serious safety system. Be careful with what you are doing so that you don't wreck the car. If you need professional help to do it right, please go get it.

BTW, there is a technical article in the Members Only section of the ROA web site that talks about removing the booster from the brake pedal (inside the car). Go read it and save yourself a lot of headaches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rock Auto is a decent source for parts like these. I just looked it up for a '67 drum/drum Electra and they have a booster/MC combo for $107 but only one left. Otherwise it looks like they are separate.

One of my '65s had this done sometime in the '70s and they even converted over to disc brakes on the front. Not sure if I am going to pull that and use it on my running '65 yet.

Good luck with the searches.

Mike

Just ordered that last one. Glad they still had it. Thanks for the help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...