Guest shadetree77 Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Got the rear end out of my '52 Special today. I'm going to clean and paint the entire assembly as well as the entire underside of the car. I have some questions though:First, the bracket that is made onto the stabilizer bar (yellow arrow in picture below) that holds the brake line is turned upwards. The bracket on the other side is completely horizontal. Is this bracket bent? Do I need to make it match the other side?Second, when I clean up the rear end assembly do I need to take the torque tube loose from the axle (red arrow in picture below)? Do I need to take apart the torque tube or can I just leave it as is, clean, and paint it?Third, I'm going to clean and POR-15 the entire underside of the car. POR-15 is somewhat of a semi-gloss black. Is that the correct color for everything? Specifically, I'm wondering about the shocks, springs, wheel wells, the backs of the brake plates, and the underside of the body. I know I've read that some years were left in a reddish primer under there. What about in 1952? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 (edited) Morning, Rob Actually, that rearend does not look to be in too bad of shape. The cable bracket should be flat, like the other side. The only reason to disconnect the torque tube from the diff is if the gasket is leaking. Personally, I would leave it alone. Bottom of body was probably red primer with body color over spray. I did mine in black. Your biggest challenge will be to get the body/frame oil free enough for the paint to stick. Ben Edited October 13, 2012 by First Born (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 I would recommend that you drop the transmission end of the torque tube into a pan and let it sit for a day. I'd be looking to see if transmission fluid comes out. I would also try to source a gasket for that tube to carrier joint ( your red arrow) in order to refresh the grease on the drive shaft to rear axle spline. I don't know if your manual calls for this but my 56 Manual says that the splines are permanently lubricated. I don't think it would hurt to clean out that old grease and refresh at this point, especially if any transmission fluid did seep into the tube.Don't know facts on the underside, but I imagine read oxide primer would be the way Buick left it. Of course you could always spray red oxide color over the por 15 for a thorough seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 I would recommend that you drop the transmission end of the torque tube into a pan and let it sit for a day. I'd be looking to see if transmission fluid comes out. I would also try to source a gasket for that tube to carrier joint ( your red arrow) in order to refresh the grease on the drive shaft to rear axle spline. I don't know if your manual calls for this but my 56 Manual says that the splines are permanently lubricated. I don't think it would hurt to clean out that old grease and refresh at this point, especially if any transmission fluid did seep into the tube.Don't know facts on the underside, but I imagine read oxide primer would be the way Buick left it. Of course you could always spray red oxide color over the por 15 for a thorough seal.On that era assembly there is nothing serviceable at the red arrow unless you want to remove the driveshaft from the pinion. The back cover can be removed to change the lubricant and now is a good time to change the axle seals and repack the axle bearings. There should be a method to seal the front of the torque tube (55's have a seal in the end of the tube). I always drill a hole in the bottom of the torque tube 2" in front of the rear flange to check for and drain any tranny fluid that got past the seal at the front. If no tranny fluid in the torque tube you might find rear end lube instead from a defective pinion seal. I don't replace that seal unless the whole rear needs rebuilding since it is such a pain to replace otherwise and will not affect the function.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Thanks for the info. guys. As for the paint, looks like I'll just go for the semi-gloss black color of the rust paint for now. Maybe on down the road I'll go back and spray some red oxide on there. Not going for a 400 point resto. at this time anyway.Ben, I'll bend that cable bracket flat. It must have gotten smacked by a big rock or something at one time or another. Willie, if I'm reading your response correctly there's not much reason to pull the torque tube off of the rear end on my particular set-up. I think what you're saying is that the operation of "refreshing the grease" that John referred to above only applies to later models? Let me know if I'm reading you wrong because I'll open it up and re-grease if necessary. I do plan on removing the rear cover to clean out and replace the oil. I already bought the gasket. My service manual refers to a "propeller shaft spline oil seal" that needs to be replaced in the front of the torque tube. Looks like it consists of a retainer, spring, and two seals. I didn't see this thing on mine when I pulled the rear end but then again I wasn't really looking for it. I'll look again next time I'm up there. I've read about your drain plug process for the torque tube and I think it's a good idea. I may try to install one before I put the tube back in. Just out of curiosity though, is there anyway to drain the tube without taking it completely apart or drilling the hole? Can I do as John suggested above and put the end in a drain pan after I remove the "propeller spline seal"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Robert, you have Willies response down pat. No reason to separate the torque tube/diff. In fact, to do so is a difficult job. And , yes on the propeller shaft seal. If it is missing, you now know why the diff was full of tranny fluid. And I believe you are correct, John must be thinking of later models. Keep up the good work Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Robert, you have Willies response down pat. No reason to separate the torque tube/diff. In fact, to do so is a difficult job. And , yes on the propeller shaft seal. If it is missing, you now know why the diff was full of tranny fluid. And I believe you are correct, John must be thinking of later models. Keep up the good work Ben...like Ben said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 I was responding based on the 56, not the 52. I'd go with Willies advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 All things considered the rear looks to be in good shape. You have basically embarked on a frame on restoration! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Chris, I believe you are right! I didn't realize it when I started all of this, but that fact is slowly sinking in. My original plans called for a frame off restoration after driving the car for a couple of years as is. But come this April I will have owned this car for 2 years and truth be told, I've done very little driving in her. I'm still on the fence on which path I want to choose. It could still go either way. Perhaps a minimal frame on resto., drive for a few years, and then frame off? I realize that's not very money conscious, but then again money doesn't really factor into my project as far as a re-sale value or anything. I don't EVER expect to get any of this money back. This project is one of love and she's not ever going anywhere! Also factor in the knowledge that my wife will be attending grad. school next year and depending on where she gets accepted, we might be moving to any number of far-off states in the country. Who knows where I will be this time next year? I can't exactly haul a disassembled Buick cross country (well, I COULD but it would be expensive). By the way, I'm trying to get her to move to the Wichita, Kansas area so she can go to the school there and I can go to McPherson right down the road for the four year degree in automotive restoration. That would be amazing as I've always regretted not finishing college. I don't exactly want to be a security guard for the rest of my life. I'd like to have my own small restoration shop someday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 The Buick is a hobby. Restore bits and pieces like you are doing. Invest more time and energy with your wife. She is your future and the dividends will be greater in the long run Plan your work. Work your plan. Eventually you will obtain your desires. The key is patience, perseverance and positive mind set. You have demonstrated these qualities with your Buick project. This is one of many reasons members on this forum follow your threads with much interest. Keep up the good work. I'm looking foward to the installation of Lucies parts that make her go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesWoodieWorld Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Chris, of all the good sound advice on this thread, yours puts the icing on the cake!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Robert, watching this is like deja-vu to me. I've attached a couple of before and afters of the same thing for your review. 57 of course, but not much different in the colors and process. Also, there is a photo of the drain plug that Willie spoke of. I did that to my torque tube, since it was full of tranny fluid from a bad prop shaft seal. I replaced it when the rear end was out, so now I don't think it will ever leak again, especially since I put the drain plug in! Keep up the good work - frame on is the way to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Jim, Me too in a way as I have studied your thread a lot. I plan on drilling the drain hole in there before I put it back under the car. I guess I should have done it before I painted but it's too late now! Where did you buy your plug? Auto parts store? I was looking at the colors on yours. I noticed your brake plates are cad. color and the front cover of your axle is a reddish color. On mine, I have been told that the brake plates were black in '52 and I corroborated this as the plates had quite a bit of original black paint still on them under the crud layer. On the front cover I did notice some reddish paint but at the time I thought it was primer underneath the black. After looking at yours, now I'm not so sure. Do you have any idea what years had the reddish cover? Looks like I might have to go back and paint mine that color. I can't seem to find anyone that knows for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 The motivation for pulling the rear end and torque tube from my '60 came from an annoying little squeak at low speeds, like creeping into a cruise night. After 50 years inside the tube here is what I found:It was worth the effort to avoid that joint snapping off at 75 MPH somewhere (my speed buzzer is set for 85.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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