Guest rramer Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I just picked up the '41 Road master from a good friend. It's been sitting for 6 years. I blew out the fuel lines and drained the tank, P U! Still no fuel from the pump, I pulled the pump and ordered the rebuild kit. I have a concern with the pivot arm pin. Anyone rebuilt one? Best way to pull that pin? Is there anything on the web as far as instructions on the rebuild? What do you think about the fuel lines? Should I go ahead and replace? There is a in line filter just below the passenger side door along the frame. Good spot to hide a electric pump?Also what do you think about running an inline pump? Do I bypass the mechanical? Can I run both? I am also interested in the possible conversion to front disc brakes. Anyone have a kit out there? Thoughts on this subject?Thanks so much for your time all!rr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 The fuel pickup tube in the tank is usually plugged up on a car that has sat a long time, especially with the gas we have in t.he past several years. YOu need to remove the fuel sending unit from the tank and clean it up so your gauge will work, so that is the time to clean out the pickup tube. you should replace any rubber fuel lines with new rubber that can withstand ethanol in the fuel. An inline electric pump is usually needed to help combat vapor lock on hot days, with the lousy stuff we have for gas now. On two of my Buicks, the mechanical pump is still in place and works in addition to the electric fuel pump.I'm not in favor of disc brake conversions. The old drum brakes stopped the car just fine for 60-70 years, and you certainly aren't going to drive this car at reckless speeds, but probably rather conservatively, so why get rid of the drum brakes? Just rebuild the master cylinder and wheel cylinders and replace the return springs and brake hoses.Putting disc brakes on an old car destroys its originality and reduces its value, in my personal opinion, but there are others who will disagree with me on that.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Leonard, TX 1949 model 511949 model 591950 model 76-R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 The fuel pickup tube in the tank is usually plugged up on a car that has sat a long time, especially with the gas we have in t.he past several years. YOu need to remove the fuel sending unit from the tank and clean it up so your gauge will work, so that is the time to clean out the pickup tube. you should replace any rubber fuel lines with new rubber that can withstand ethanol in the fuel. An inline electric pump is usually needed to help combat vapor lock on hot days, with the lousy stuff we have for gas now. On two of my Buicks, the mechanical pump is still in place and works in addition to the electric fuel pump.I'm not in favor of disc brake conversions. The old drum brakes stopped the car just fine for 60-70 years, and you certainly aren't going to drive this car at reckless speeds, but probably rather conservatively, so why get rid of the drum brakes? Just rebuild the master cylinder and wheel cylinders and replace the return springs and brake hoses.Putting disc brakes on an old car destroys its originality and reduces its value, in my personal opinion, but there are others who will disagree with me on that.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338Leonard, TX 1949 model 511949 model 591950 model 76-R1954 model 48-D1959 Electra 2-dr.1962 Electra 2251963 Wildcat conv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 On those long term storage cars I like to disconnect the fuel line at the carb and used my MyTvac brake bleeder bottle to draw fuel from the tank. I check the gas drawn into the bottle to see how bad it is. The first two or three can look real bad. If it stays bad, drain and put in fresh. Then use the MyTVac to prime the system up to the carb.Doing it this way keeps the dry diaphragm from flexing while it waits for fuel and from over grinding the starter and heating up the brushes and armature.I guess that tip is a little late for you,rr. Maybe it will help another.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 (edited) Welcome to the forum... I agree with Pete (especially about disc brakes) & I don't have the gizmo that Bernie uses. My 38 came with an inline electric fuel pump located near the tank. A hidden toggle switch uner the dash allows me to prime the original fuel pump in only 30 seconds to put enough fuel in the carb for starting . Once the car starts, I turn off the electric pump; but it also comes in handy to eliminate vapor lock on hot days at higher elevations. Just a flick of the switch eliminates the problem.I encourage you to join the BCA and sign up for our PreWar Division Newsletter.... No dues; Just send us your BCA number and email address to join. Edited October 13, 2012 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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