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Broken Parts Questions


Guest shadetree77

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Guest shadetree77

I've been working on removing the rear end on my '52 Special the last few days. I have a few questions for you guys.

First, the long stud that holds the adjusting nut for the parking brake cable twisted off. This stud is on the very end of the parking brake cable. In the picture below, I've marked the stud with a yellow arrow and the part it attaches to on the cable with a red arrow (this picture was taken shortly BEFORE it broke off in my hand). My question is: Does anyone make a replacement brake cable for my car? I'm having trouble finding one in all the normal places. If not, can this be fixed somehow? Anyone dealt with this problem before?

Second, I think my rear shock links are shot. When I detached them from the shock absorbers, the pins stayed in the shock absorber arms as seen in the second picture below. Aren't these supposed to stay in the links? Is it time for new ones? How do those pins work anyway? I don't see how the pins stay in the shock links without anything on the side to keep them from slipping out.

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Regarding the parking brake cable, you may be able to order one by specification. Take out the broken one and take it to a NAPA or your regular parts store, and see if they can find one based upon the length and mounting bushings.

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Robert, as noted the shock links are shot. As far as the shocks, if you are cheap like me, you can reseal them (see my website).

The rod is an easy fix: just cut off forward of any guide holes and weld some threaded rod where you cut it. If an arc welder is not handy, you can braze (flux coated brass rod and MAPP gas torch) a steel sleeve over the rods to join.

Willie

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Guest shadetree77

Thanks for all of the responses guys. As with anything I do to my old Buick, this transmission removal job is steadily climbing in price. One thing always leads to another. Nature of the beast I suppose. I'll buy some new links from Bob's when the time comes. As for the brake cable, the only place I can find a listing for one is on the Kanter website and it's REALLY vague. Not to mention it's $77. I think I'll go with Willie's suggestion and weld a piece of threaded rod on the end of the cable. That should work just fine. I have a MIG welder so that should do the job. The shocks are OK for now. I refilled them and bled them a while back and so far they don't leak a drop. That being the case, I think I'll leave them alone for now. "Don't fix it if it ain't broken" is what I was always taught! Thanks guys.

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