Jump to content

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


Recommended Posts

Not to worry. The price of the cars would kill the thought of hot rodding. The 33 DP has not been sold yet because a few prospects wanted to know if i would sell without the drive train? RED LIGHT! Instead, i sold themother cars that we have that is to far gone for a stock resto.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are not slow, like wine it takes time. It took a friend of mine 33 Ply 15 years to do. Even though it was a street rod, it has never took less than 1st place. It came in 2nd? for the DON RIDDLER award at DETROIT AUTO RAMA in the early 80s. Keiser can tell you what kind award that is. I'll be back home Sunday to take pictures of the battery floor.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

Just up the road from where I work part time is a little factory that specialises in restoration of shock absorbers. I have been recommended a number of time to these people and took along mine. Within a few weeks I got a call that they were finished. They completely refurbished the internals and painted them black as well. Effectively ready to bolt on, which is what I did as soon as I got home. So with the fuel tank mounted, the diff in place and the new brake and fuel lines also in place things started to look like a rolling chassis.

I aslo bought a pair of horns at the swap meet incase I couldn't find a pair of original ones. I figured, at that stage anyway, that at least it would look the part. I'm still not sure what they are from but they certainly are nice horns. I also needed to find some type of indicators as these are required to get the car registered in Australia. I also wanted to find some that, as best as I could, would match the large bullet headlights. You can see in the two photos what I found.

I also took my old speedo cable to a shop that specialises in the restoration of guages and cables and they made me a new one as the old one was showing a lot of wear.

Next I'll get the guages checked.

Cheers

Ian

post-44589-14314172574_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141725767_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141725769_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141725771_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141725773_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all,

Today was an interesting day. After trying to mount the front fenders I found they were fouling on the radiator surround. I contacted Mark with the convertable 34 with the question I hoped he wouldn't answer the way I was thinking. Yep, Guards first then the radiation / surround assembly. Ok so out comes the rods and drain the radiator, disconnect the hoses and out she comes. Funny thing is the guards are a lot easier to mount this way........derrrr.

I did have one hitch, one of the guards ( the fourth photo ) has a tab sitting on top of the chassis and the other didn't. Strange....then it twigged, one guard has the tab bent and the other didn't. This guard now has to be removed, yet again, and somehow straighten the tab without damaging the paint. We'll see how that one goes another day.

Cheers

Ian

post-44589-143141729123_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141729126_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141729129_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141729131_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141729134_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as I know ( never worked on a 34 ) you do not have to remove the fenders, V notch something to support them in the center of the lip underneath and yet still allow them to drop far enough when you loosen them to get the rad down in there.

Heat the tab/paint a little before you try and bend the tab, dont know how far it has too be bent, if its alot than the paint is going to crack/break no matter what you do.

ALL bolt on parts should be pre-fitted before final paint. If this is done than you would be shocked how much faster the car goes together cause you have already done it so you know how everything goes and there are no tabs that need to be bent.

We ( some of us ) still do this today before we send a car to paint in the collision industry.

Ok I see what tab you are talking about, the paints going to break no matter what you do if it has too be bent completely under, if its only a 90 degree bend, heat the paint, put a rag inside the jaws of some duck billed vice grips and give it a shot.

Looking good though!

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Guys,

Thanks Jason, I'll definitely heat it up before applying some pressure. The only saving grace is that it will be hidden by the chassis but I may still have to get a small respray.

Mark..............:P

Ian :D

A black permanent marker goes a long way as well. Good luck

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rick.

we only got our first rain last night for about a month. Queensland has a number of towns that are literally under water.

its a land of extremes at time. Wednesday they said it will be 35 degrees again so it's getting hotter.

bit hard to work on the car when the sun hits the garage doors, it's like sitting next to an oven.

ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent a little while yesterday bending the panel. I put my hand in front of it to test the heat so when I pulled my hand away, a fraction closer gave it the right amount to warm up the paint, but not too much.

I then put a cloth over the top and bottom and then a piece of wood on each side and used my multigrips to hold it all together and did a small amount at a time.

Turned out pretty good and no cracks at all in the paint !...whew

I had all the panels fitted together at the body shop but with the pulling apart, transporting and painting and assembly its a wonder they get back to together at all. Seem to sit reasonably well though.

There seems to be a stud sticking out on one side and not the other and I though this was welded to the inside of the chassis until I tried to undo a nut and it started to turn. I thought I'd stuffed it up until I kept going and this stud was actually tapped into the chassis. Missing one in the front left side but I can use a bolt there. I'll clean them up and recoat a bit later.

Ian

post-44589-143141734269_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141734291_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141734313_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jason,

I couldn't with the original boards as they were too far gone. Once I ordered and received the new ones I took them to the shop and the holes drilled and fittiing took place.

Even though the panels were fitted I suppose its not exacting so when you get down on your hands and knees to actually fit and align them and the fender welt between them there are quite a few adjustments to be made.

Also when the shop fitted everything, there is no guarantee once refitted after painting that the body etc is sitting in exactly the same place. It only has to be a small amount out ( full adjustment the other way ) and things arn't fitting like in the photo.

Dont get me wrong, I'm happy with the progress. Maybe I'm too fussy with having the panels aligning up. After watching the 1936 production line video, I should just drop everything in place and bolt it up.

This is the offending little stud I mentioned in a previous post. I'll etch prime them, repaint and refit, then I can put the front fender back. I've also taken the headlight stalks and a few bonnet holddowns to the plater. I hope to have the two front guards and radiator assembly losely fitted this weekend. I'm also still working on the front floor timber.

Another question. My Dodge has a Thrust Bearing grease cap. Now according to the manual the 34's didn't have them but the 35's did. If anyone has a 34 or 35 where is this acuually mounted. I tried on the top bolt of the bell housing to crossmember mount but it fouled on the front floor board when fitted. I've attached a photo so hopefully you can make it out.

Cheers

Ian

post-44589-14314173552_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141735537_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Jason,I couldn't with the original boards as they were too far gone. Once I ordered and received the new ones I took them to the shop and the holes drilled and fittiing took place.Even though the panels were fitted I suppose its not exacting so when you get down on your hands and knees to actually fit and align them and the fender welt between them there are quite a few adjustments to be made.Also when the shop fitted everything, there is no guarantee once refitted after painting that the body etc is sitting in exactly the same place. It only has to be a small amount out ( full adjustment the other way ) and things arn't fitting like in the photo.Dont get me wrong, I'm happy with the progress. Maybe I'm too fussy with having the panels aligning up. After watching the 1936 production line video, I should just drop everything in place and bolt it up.This is the offending little stud I mentioned in a previous post. I'll etch prime them, repaint and refit, then I can put the front fender back. I've also taken the headlight stalks and a few bonnet holddowns to the plater. I hope to have the two front guards and radiator assembly losely fitted this weekend. I'm also still working on the front floor timber.Another question. My Dodge has a Thrust Bearing grease cap. Now according to the manual the 34's didn't have them but the 35's did. If anyone has a 34 or 35 where is this acuually mounted. I tried on the top bolt of the bell housing to crossmember mount but it fouled on the front floor board when fitted. I've attached a photo so hopefully you can make it out.CheersIan
Ianmine does have the grease cup, I will try and find the photo of where it mounts and put it on here, mounts onto the lower firewall as access is through the hood area...i will hunt the picture.....Steve
Link to post
Share on other sites
Ianmine does have the grease cup, I will try and find the photo of where it mounts and put it on here, mounts onto the lower firewall as access is through the hood area...i will hunt the picture.....Steve

you will have to enlarge to see , it is the have loop to the lower right of photo attached to the trans bracket and also attaching close to floor board on the engine compartment side ,,,,still looking for more pictures,,

Steve in NH

post-70464-143141735583_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Like I said, I bought one from a guy cause I thought it was interesting, but my throw out bearing has no such thing (line with cup). If I remember correctly, there is one on my 1919 Dodge Brothers transmission I have. I didn't have a throw out bearing on my car, so I bought a 1962 throw out bearing and holder, did a little machining, and it fit fine. Or are we talking about something else?

Link to post
Share on other sites
you will have to enlarge to see , it is the have loop to the lower right of photo attached to the trans bracket and also attaching close to floor board on the engine compartment side ,,,,still looking for more pictures,,

Steve in NH

here is 1 other that shows the tube trans. side to bearing, sorry about the "mouse house" as this is what I found upond tearing down the car, no wonder it was hard to find the gears when I drove it at purchase.....

post-70464-143141735584_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Now I'm worried that I don't have one on my 34 Dodge. (Thrust bearing cap)

I know I have a spare, connected to a fitting and short piece of armour /metal coated tube somewhere, but they are next to extint to find so it wont go cheap.... you can make the rest of it with the braided lines they sell,,,,, as I said, I do have and am open to an offer...

Steve in NH

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not to poo poo on anyone's deal but that looks similar if not identical to many earlier Dodge products at least. Looks the same as my 29 off the top of my head. I may have some spares if needed and they would work....maybe not though. If I do than I would be glad to give them away and see them get used.

Let me know.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Jason,

I couldn't with the original boards as they were too far gone. Once I ordered and received the new ones I took them to the shop and the holes drilled and fittiing took place.

Even though the panels were fitted I suppose its not exacting so when you get down on your hands and knees to actually fit and align them and the fender welt between them there are quite a few adjustments to be made.

Also when the shop fitted everything, there is no guarantee once refitted after painting that the body etc is sitting in exactly the same place. It only has to be a small amount out ( full adjustment the other way ) and things arn't fitting like in the photo.

Dont get me wrong, I'm happy with the progress. Maybe I'm too fussy with having the panels aligning up. After watching the 1936 production line video, I should just drop everything in place and bolt it up.

This is the offending little stud I mentioned in a previous post. I'll etch prime them, repaint and refit, then I can put the front fender back. I've also taken the headlight stalks and a few bonnet holddowns to the plater. I hope to have the two front guards and radiator assembly losely fitted this weekend. I'm also still working on the front floor timber.

Another question. My Dodge has a Thrust Bearing grease cap. Now according to the manual the 34's didn't have them but the 35's did. If anyone has a 34 or 35 where is this acuually mounted. I tried on the top bolt of the bell housing to crossmember mount but it fouled on the front floor board when fitted. I've attached a photo so hopefully you can make it out.

Cheers

Ian

Ok 36 video, have I seen this?

I am nearing the end of a 68 Chevelle resto, I say resto but the guy is the original owner and lost the engine somewhere along the line and so he has a 500 plus cubic inch sumpthin or other in their. Guys wants it perfect, he wants all the panels like glass and wants them all to line up perfectly, they didnt line up perfectly when it was new and they sure didnt looklike glass, needless to say it has some extra mud. A big hammer and 2 by 4 have massaged more than one panel into place.

My point is its your car, be as picky as you like but just remember it was never perfect and I can guarantee when you are done it still will not be. No such thing.

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mark / Steve,

Here's a pic of the thrust bearing. You'll notice the hole with the grease in it which is where the end of the line of the grease cap feeder goes. The second picture is of the hole in the bell housing where the line passes through.

Steve, should leave it like that.....adds authenticity !!!! hahahaha

Jason,

I know what you mean they wearn't perfect. I can't help myself !!

I'll try and find that link to the production line video.

Ian

post-44589-14314173639_thumb.jpg

post-44589-143141736392_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Heres a bit of ingenuity.

I couldn't get the fender welt to sit properly between the end of the valance panel and the back side of the front fender and I couldn't get my hands up in the gap so I used a couple of surgical artery clamps to grab the small bit of fender welt sticking out between the two panels and was able to pull the fender welt down and holt it while I did up the bolts.

Who said restorers don't come up with strange solutions !

Cheers

Ian

post-44589-143141743804_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...