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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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That is always a scary proposition. I remember doing something like that to remove the front coils from my Studebaker GT Hawk. I was using the weight of the car, undid the bolts and lowered the jack until the tension was gone. One of them slid sideways a bit and scared the **** out of me.

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Not much to report but I was able to get the rear luggage rack brackets and rubber grommets in place. I will lift and seal down the track when I get them fully adjusted.

Does anyone know if I need to seal the fuel tank filler neck that screws into the fuel tank, or does it simply just screw in and no type of sealer needed.

Cheers

Ian

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After receiving back the brake shoe backing plates I also have all the shoes relined and the brake cylinders resleeved in stainless steel. I bought new boots and also new felt seals which I had rivited to the backing plates. At the same time I remode all the brake and fuel lines. I wire brushed the outers of the drums and had them all machined inside so hopefully will give good braking for a number of years. At the same time I went to the Ballarat Swap Meet ( for our overseas friends if you ever come to Australia, go to Soverign Hill in Ballarat and experience the life during the gold rush, it keeps getting better and better ). At the Swap I picked up brake and petrol line clips, 2 hubcaps, high tension lead wire, 12 volt condensor for the distributor, crankhole cover and a few other odds and ends that may come in handy down the track. I was also lucky enough to pick up an original 1934 Dodge instruction book from an add in the local paper.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Ben,

I know that in 1934 Dodge started using independent front suspension but due to the higher cost I imagine went back to a single beam axle. This went on for a few more years but I'm not sure of the exact dates. I know there was a thread that one of the other guys had the dates but I imagine your thread you mentioned relates to all makes in general. Anyhow when I find it I'll post it here for you.

Ian

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Thanks Tony, much appreciated. All I have to do now is find a hole that the painter covered over......should be easy huh !!!

Finished the rea mudguard support brackets and I have actually finished bolting a rear mudguard, valance panel and running board together. I found that by gently jacking up the back of the valance panel I could get the fender welt to sit at the correct position. The only problem is the running board bracket near the rear mudguard is sitting slightly lower than the underside of the running board. Another interesting problem to sort out. Worst case scenario I may have to pack that bit up but I have a closer look later on. I'll start on the other side now I've had practice on this side.

Cheers

Ian

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For our friends overseas we often mention extreme weather conditions.

Yesterday was interesting when they forcasted a top temp of 38 degrees. While sitting in the car in the shade waiting for my daughter to finish school, the temp was registering 45 degrees. Sunday is suppose to be 21 with rain.

Sometimes you don't know if you coming or going.

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Hi Ben,

I know that in 1934 Dodge started using independent front suspension but due to the higher cost I imagine went back to a single beam axle. This went on for a few more years but I'm not sure of the exact dates. I know there was a thread that one of the other guys had the dates but I imagine your thread you mentioned relates to all makes in general. Anyhow when I find it I'll post it here for you.

Ian

Thanks for all the great pictures. I am working on one just like yours. Starting to put stuff back on frame. Cleaned frame and brush painted with chassis saver high gloss black paint. Put shocks on and filled with oil hoping the were all right. They seemed to work properly but leaked around shafts. Sent out for rebuild. Wish I had taken pictures tearing down. Would have saved many hours figuring out how things go. Even though I tagged things it is still hard to remember where everything goes. It will even be harder when I get to things that were removed before I got it. That was in 1970. I already see in some of your pictures things that will help me. Thanks Jim

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Hi Jim,

I'm glad the pictures help. If you look at the first couple of posts you'll see the car on the trailer. There was basically nothing from the front of the firewall forward apart from the front suspension. Inside the car was nothing either. Everything was dismantled or pulled apart. Even the engine was in 500 pieces. If you ever get stuck on anything, or where something goes just drop me a line and I'll be glad to help where I can. I'm still asking questions as I put thing back together and whenever I catch up with anyone with a 34 I always take photos which I often printout, carry out to the garage and fit that particular part. Can you post some photos of where your at with your project and when you bought the car ? We all love photos !!!

Cheers

Ian

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At this point I was talking to a few members of the club I belong to about restoring a car and the thing that seemed to be constant was that they often worked 12 months ahead. In other words, for example, even though your body isn't finished start looking for the windscreens etc.. This was good advice as I then starting to sort through things and look for parts / bits I didn't have. Little did I know that 5 years later I would still be searching for those hard to get parts.

Any how a club member put me onto this chap who makes Windscreens. My rear vent windout windows were broken and the frames rusted into tiny fragments. I took what I had to have them remade. When I arrived at his workshop he was in the process of hand making a new windscreen frame for Himler's Mercedes ( the third reich ) which eventually cost the owner $25,000. I showed him my bag of pieces and he said he had done some before and still had the patterns and has the pattern for the main windscreen. I decided to order them on the spot as his work is impecable. I also went ot a swap meet and found a few original sales brochures which I often enjoy reading and looking at. I also ordered a new wiring harness from Vintage Wiring Harnesses in Sydney. They had the setup for a 34 Dodge Sedan which I had modified for horns and indicators. This also, when arrived, was something I was amazed at the quality of work people do. This was cotton braided and had little tags to designate where each wire went. I didn't have a set of horns yet but as my frient said start looking now for 12 months in advance, so I started looking for a pair of horns to suit my 34 Dodge......not an easy task.

I got a phone call from my Windscreen man and the rear 1/4 vent windows were ready to be picked up, but the front Windscreen would take a few more months as he had a lot of work on at that stage.

Ian

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Not much to report.

I've been lying under the car trying to get the runningboard bolts, valance panel and rear mudguard to align up on the other side of the car.

If you've seen one bolt you've seen them all . I only have three more bolts to go and then I'm ready to start on the front mudguards.

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hey Ron,

sounds like a nice man cave. mines a lot smaller 12 m x 7m but this is attached to the house. sounds like you'll have plenty of room for the toys.

hi tony. my dodge somewhere along the line had a tow bar and the rear bumper irons were drilled and modified to suit. maybe we should swap irons. saves me re modifying back to original and saves you modifying for a tow bar !

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Just a quick question......

I've asked my Australian counterparts but thought I'd check with my friends in the US. Is there rubber mounting blocks between the underside of the running board and the running board brackets ?

It seems the running board is sitting a bit high even with full adjustment.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey guys,

Can't do much on that car at the moment as probably a lot of us have family commitments and also the temperature goes through highs and lows. Yesterday it reached 42 degrees in the shade at my place and today is about 22 at the moment !!

I've cut out the fenderwelt that goes between the running board and the front fender ( mudguard ). All I have to do now is the tricky one that attached to the radiator surround and then I can mount the two front fenders

TO ALL OUR FRIENDS IN AUSTRALIA AND OVERSEAS PLEASE HAVE A SAFE CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR

Ian

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Merry Christmas to you too Ian.. I just gave my son Brian his Christmas presents which includes membership to the Chrysler Restorers Club .... Member Number 1934.

Being on the committee does have its advantages... I reserved that number months ago hoping it would come up in time...Must catch up during the holidays.... Ken

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Hey all,

Now Christmas has now finished and the family have gone to all the sales I can continue with the forum.

I've attached a photo of the wiring harness which when thinging about it did a fantastic job. It has little numbers at the ends of each wire and a sheet of paper explaining what each wire is for. Th efront windscreen was also finished so I picked that up and put, lying flat and covered, on the top shelf in my study. I found the rear window winders in a box of bit so I checked them out. I found one was broken so I set about repairing it as I has two broken spares ( from the previous owner ). Ground off the spot weld joins and pulled apart. Replaced the offending cog and reassembled. I took it to a friend of mine who spot welded the joins again and it worked ! I regreased it and wrapped it up....another small job done. The diff was also pulled apart by the previous owner and he also had a lot of spare parts for both the diff and gearbox. Again as I didn't pull it apart I took both to a specialist who had experience in rebuilding them and advised me the correct method of installing in the housing. What he didn't tell me was that it could go either way around. I had a photo of a friends diff so I mounted mine the same way. When I temporarily mounted the axles ( again of which I had 5 spare ones ) I couldn't quite figure what was wrong. Yep you guessed it I had it upside down so when I wanted to go forward, I would have done backward ( 3 gears of reverse and one of forward ). I contacted the guy I had the photo from and his was fine so I rechecked mine and the alignment and everything aligns up now and I will be able to go forward in 3 gears ! I was also lucky enough that the previous owner also cleaned out the fuel tank so I rechecked it and gave it a coat of fresh paint.

Cheers

Ian

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Nice one Tony, sounds like your making progress.

I finished the fender welt that goes between the radiator cowl and the front fender. Interesting thing is that there are small and large holes in the front cowl. All I can assume is that the welt was anchored woth the small holes ( via a rivet or small counter sunk metal thread between the two layers of the welt ) and the front of the fender was bolted in place with the large holes. It all seems to fit up so I just have to put the welt in place then I'm ready to fit the front guard. I also cut the piece of flooring from a sheet of ply. It fits so I'll crawl under the car and mark the screw holes and the fit the wooden front seat supports. My daughters also tested out the legroom in the back of the car ( probably the last time they'll want to sit in it !!! ).

Ian

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There is definitely a "right side up" with the differential gears. I did the same thing in high school when I replaced the gearset in my 1936 DB touring sedan. What the heck did I know at 16 years old? Learned a good lesson that day.

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Hi Keiser,

I know it sounded a bit dumb but I stood there and thought which way does the engine turn. Then I looked back at the diff then back at the front and the more I looked the more I wasn't sure. Finally I had a break and then it all seemed to make sense. I thought to myself....you prawn what was I thinking.

The joys of restoration and confusion.

Someone else said to me once.....there are never any problems only answers ( obviously never restored a car ! )

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Last bit of progress before the new year comes in.

I finished the first piece of flooring. Drilled all the holes and rechecked it bolts into place. Fitted the front seat supports and sanded. I'm tossing up what to coat it in. I'll paint the underside in a marine black paint and I'll probably paint to top in a clear as I like the look of the ply. I have to fit the felt that goes between the floor board and the metal frame after its painted.

To all my Dodge friends in Australia and Overseas I hope you have a safe New Years Eve and Happy New Year to you all !!

Cheers

Ian, Gabrielle, Michael, Lauren and Kira

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Looks great Ian, I dont know what they did in 34 but my 30 is left natural finish although I am sure that it was sprayed with some sort of preservative at one point. Keep us posted and happy new year to you as well

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Hi everyone,

I pulled the radiator out from under the house and checked it out. The top oulet was completely rusted away however the previous owner had made a new one from Copper. I took both parts to the local radiator shop who had done some older cars before. They advised that the two tanks would be reused as well as the side mounts but the core was beyond repair. They replaced this, pressure tested it and sprayed the entire radiator black. Interesting thing is I temporarily fitted it to the housing and it fitted right in, with only one hole needing minor adjustment. Again a competant tradesman I wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

Cheers

Ian

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