Ian_Greenlaw

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

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on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

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On 11/6/2019 at 11:49 AM, Sactownog said:

on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

 

3 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Would you mind posting a photo ? Its just interesting to see.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

On my '33 Plymouth there is enough slack on the lacing that you can pull it aside to get to the screws that hold the radiator shell to the radiator. Since the lacing is held on with split rivets that is about the only way you can do it. I'll try to get a photo or two.

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7 minutes ago, ply33 said:

On my '33 Plymouth there is enough slack on the lacing that you can pull it aside to get to the screws that hold the radiator shell to the radiator. Since the lacing is held on with split rivets that is about the only way you can do it. I'll try to get a photo or two.

1930 DC is  the same. The split rivets are supposed to be black enamel finish.

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Exactly the same as my 32 Dodge Brothers.  The old lacing pretty much fell apart during deconstruction.  I put the new lacing on the radiator shell with split rivets- it has to be done before inserting the radiator.  The new lacing is flexible enough to peel back - as in ply33’s photo- and install the mounting bolts.

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On 11/7/2019 at 8:49 AM, Sactownog said:

on my 33, the lacing goes over the screw holes front the top middle hinge all the way down the sides covering all holes. 

 

mine was original and to get to the screws I had to tear off the lacing. it will be re-glued and applied when I am done putting engine back in car. 

The Master Parts List shows only split rivets #104449 to hold the lacing to the radiator shell - no glue. Those rivets are oval head split rivets in black enamel finish, 9/64 x 3/8".

 

This is the tool to seat them properly. If you just flatten them, the legs break off.

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Ian .. did you use aftermarket splash aprons on the front fenders ?? They look great!

 

les

1934 Dodge Sedan 

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Splash Aprons on the front fenders ? Not quite sure which pic your looking at.......can you copy it and repost.

 

Cheers

Ian

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When bending the Bailey Channel you find sometimes that the felt won't bend with it and tears across the curved area. Used some of the glue I had and stuck it back and clamped in place using small bulldog clips. Also after relubricating the door lock I was able to get it set up and working properly. Found a grommet I had and spliced it in half. Used this as it protects the paintwork from the outer trim ring and give it a nice finished look.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Finally got all the spring loaded dovetail keepers in place and striker plates so now all the doors shut and lock. Apart from a few adjustments I can now focus on the firewall insulation, steering wheel and getting it ready to send to the Upholsterers. Another big step, all my seats and whatever ws left of the interior was picked up the other day.

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Ok.....still plugging along.

Found the original firewall liner. I was at the Motorclassica car show and they had a display of firewall material that acted as both a liner and soundproofer. Bought a length not realising I have enough for 3 cars so I may use it elsewhere in the car. The guy who owned my car before me cut out a piece of Fibre Pin Up Board and some suedo timber lining board. Imagine trying to get this around the coil and all the wires and cables coming in from the engine bay.  Located suitable screws on the other side of the firewall and replaced with longer ones where necessary. Using the original liner I made up a cardboard template and did a trial fit adjusting here and there. Had to cut one piece out where the front vent drainage tube goes. Layed the cardboard template over the new material and cut this out making slits from the top down to the various holes where the cables protrude. Marked where the bolts went and drilled holes in for them to fit through. After only a few small adjustments it actually fitted better than I thought. I'll probably use some Nylock nuts so the wont come undone with any vibration.

Another task done.

 

Cheers

Ian

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On my '33 Plymouth that is held in place with some metal clips that have a large button head. I think I saw a supplier of those a while back (I reused my original so I didn't pay much attention). Maybe Restoration Specialties as a possible supplier.

 

If you'd like, I can see if I can remove one from my car and get measurements, etc.

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I see you have the nuts on the inside. Should they be there?

 

In my 1939 Studebaker, the liner was fitted in the factory using very long machine screws pushed through from the inside (large washer under the head inside, of course). The person in the engine bay then put the nut on and between them they tightened it. Then the extra length of machine screw was chopped off with wire cutters, just off the nut on the engine side! Fast and scruffy.

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Wow, you'd think the inside of the firewall didn't warrant much attention so I assumed the nut would be there. I think a nice polished head in the engine bay looks nicer than a cut off thread ! who would have known...

 

Thnaks Ply33, a pic of the clips is always helpful.

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To cover over the battery hole in the floor I had a 3mm stainless steel plate made. Using furniture caster holders, I cut one side off so they fitted between where the hole is going and the edge of the timber. Tapped them in place, drilled a hole from the top and polished the top as well as I could. Once the carpet goes in you won't really see this but wanted to make it as strong as possible. I ligned the underside with some very thin stick on felt tape to avoid any rattling.

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3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

I see you have the nuts on the inside. Should they be there?

 

In my 1939 Studebaker, the liner was fitted in the factory using very long machine screws pushed through from the inside (large washer under the head inside, of course). The person in the engine bay then put the nut on and between them they tightened it. Then the extra length of machine screw was chopped off with wire cutters, just off the nut on the engine side! Fast and scruffy.


That’s the same way they did it on my REO’s. Couldn’t be any uglier, but it’s original. 

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12 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Ok.....still plugging along.

Found the original firewall liner. I was at the Motorclassica car show and they had a display of firewall material that acted as both a liner and soundproofer. Bought a length not realising I have enough for 3 cars so I may use it elsewhere in the car. The guy who owned my car before me cut out a piece of Fibre Pin Up Board and some suedo timber lining board. Imagine trying to get this around the coil and all the wires and cables coming in from the engine bay.  Located suitable screws on the other side of the firewall and replaced with longer ones where necessary. Using the original liner I made up a cardboard template and did a trial fit adjusting here and there. Had to cut one piece out where the front vent drainage tube goes. Layed the cardboard template over the new material and cut this out making slits from the top down to the various holes where the cables protrude. Marked where the bolts went and drilled holes in for them to fit through. After only a few small adjustments it actually fitted better than I thought. I'll probably use some Nylock nuts so the wont come undone with any vibration.

Another task done.

 

Cheers

Ian

 

(Not an Endorsement)

 

Here is a potential source for a reproduction pre-cut firewall...material is ABS plastic, not original material...they also have every other piece of trim and installation you would need, i.e. Door, trunk, floor, roof....all made of ABS plastic.

 

I think your firewall is on the top of page 22 in the below link.

 

https://www.quietride.com/web/viewer.html?file=https://www.quietride.com/catalogpdfs/mopar_cars_28_48_catalog.pdf

 

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Interesting catalogue, I'll save this and have a good look through it. Your correct, the one on top of page 22 is for the 34 DR model. I'd have to modify it slightly as there are no cutouts for the 2 spare wheel support brackets which sit under the dash on each side ( if you look at my pictures you'll see them cut out on the sides. Also I'd have to cut out the steering column housing as mine is a right hand drive. Freight would also add a significant amount to it. This is why I have to try and source things locally as freight is a killer to get things into this country.

Many thanks for posting this catalogue.....very interesting.

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(Not an Endorsement) 

 

Sure, happy to help Ian.

 

I have worked with them in the past, and they will modify any openings you need, be it LHD or RHD, heater hoses, etc... Just give them the dimensions and location.

 

In fact, I actually screwed up on one set of kick panels (wrong measurements), and they did a do-over for 1/2 price...

 

They are here in Stockton, NorCal, weight is not an issue, weighed less than 10 lbs, problem was dimensions, comes in a big box...

 

Lookin' Great!

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)

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I try and get as close to original as I can get, but having limited funds ( as we all do ) and an even more limited amount of suppliers in Australia, it is tricky trying the get the result I expect.

i did purchase some items many years ago hoping that when the time came that everything fitted in place. Not everything has gone to plan but some things I absolutely thrilled with the result.

One item is the sill covers. I found a guy in the States who made replica ones even with the etched Dodge Emblem. I bought those around 9 years ago. I'll post some pics of those little beauties when I remember where I put them.

Some of the guys that have made things for the car are no longer with us which is sad as those a truly good tradesmen.

 

More to come !!

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Found some original size tubing for the other anti rattle window rollers for the front doors. To get them straight I used bamboo skewers inside them an put them in the microwave for 5 seconds. That heated them up enough to straighten them out. Inserted the two rods and gently tapped them back into the repainted holders. Only problem is they dont seem to fit between the inner door panel to the window...they're about 1/4" too big.....another problem to sort out ! Installed the four little clips that I had that this forum helped me out where they went too. Found and polished the two rear window winder handles and the two front vent window winder handles.

 

Cheers

Ian

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These were my original sill covers. 8 years ago found a guy in the states who made reproduction ones complete with original etching pattern.

I love looking at these.....

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11 hours ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

These were my original sill covers. 8 years ago found a guy in the states who made reproduction ones complete with original etching pattern.

I love looking at these.....

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is he still around? 

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