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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Ply33 - I have a 34 Dodge Parts book and it was interesting to look this up. The bumper bars were accessories and the covers were either painted or chrome. Part number is 627577. This was available on both the DR and the DS models. Interesting what you find. The car even had a "Hat Box" as an accessory ! also a windshield defroster......haven't come across one of these yet either.

 

Steve, thanks mate....We are now into Stage 4 Restrictions here with a 6 week lockdown. You can't go out between 8pm and 5am ( who would want to....its damn cold ! ) and if you go more than 5km from home you need a permit. Police are now checking cars randomly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ian .. was any insulating material attached to the lip (flange) of the running board that the strap is attached to? To prevent rusting a scratching etc?  There are holes in it suggesting something was attached .. to .. les 

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Hi Les,

There were round felt pads riveted to the lip you are talking about. I think there was 3 or 4. I didn’t want to use rivets due to a possibility of vibration causing rubbing and eventually rusting. I opted to use four or five felt ( waterproof ) stick on small pads that are sandwiched between the lip and the underside of the body.


Hope this helps

 

Ian

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Hi Les,

I sent you a PM re the felt.

 

Ok so back to the glovebox. So I have some power from the car ( for charging phones or anything else ) I fitted a USB port in the side of the glovebox and ran the wiring back to the light switch. It has a black cover and blends in well so all you see is a black round disc on the side of the glovebox. I finally got the glovebox in the required position and when I put the top bolts through the lugs there wasn't enough room to get my hand around to the top to get the washers and nut on. Had to think about that for a bit then had the idea to use a thin piece of wire with some Blue-Tac on the end. The end of the wire I made a horseshoe shape so that when I got the washers over the bolt I could just push the wire away and the washer should drop down....good in theory.....well bugger me....it actually worked ! Same thing with the nut, but this was a little more tricky....took a bit longer but again it worked a treat. Once I got the nut on I could use my little piece of wire to gently turn the nut as much as I could. You can see in the second photo I didn't have much room to move and the top of the bolt was well out of reach. Then I got a long ring spanner to hold it while I tightened to scres from underneath. Once these two were in I screwed the bottom ones in place......job done. The two arms of the glovebox were hitting on the dashboard frame. I used some tiny 3M pad with self adheasive which I put around the arm which will prevent the paint from chipping...you can just see these in the 5th photo.

 

Next the sun visors.

 

Cheers

Ian

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On 8/6/2020 at 8:17 AM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Ply33 - I have a 34 Dodge Parts book and it was interesting to look this up. The bumper bars were accessories and the covers were either painted or chrome. Part number is 627577. This was available on both the DR and the DS models. Interesting what you find. The car even had a "Hat Box" as an accessory ! also a windshield defroster......haven't come across one of these yet either.

 

Steve, thanks mate....We are now into Stage 4 Restrictions here with a 6 week lockdown. You can't go out between 8pm and 5am ( who would want to....its damn cold ! ) and if you go more than 5km from home you need a permit. Police are now checking cars randomly.

I have the windshield defroster strange little mechanism,  don’t know if I’ll be using it yet,  your “ Fruits of Labor have paid off well, car looks great

 

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On 8/22/2020 at 9:14 AM, Ron Lawson said:

Ian how have you seen photos of my car I don't know how to post pictures on here  Ron

 

If you email me photos of your car I can try to post them for you.

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry all, been busy working my around the lockdown we have here.

For those of you that don't know we ( being Victoria ) had a spike in Corona Cases and metro Melbourne was put on Stage 4 Lockdown . This meant you needed a permit to go to work ( over 5 kms ) you couldn't go out after 8pm to 5am ( unless you have permit ), masks work everytime you go out, only one person allowed to go shopping........................you get the idea. The number of cases have now dropped and they have started to ease restrictions. The sad part about this is both my wife and I have mothers in Aged Care Facilities ( in their 90's ) and because the aged care places got hit the hardest ( one place half the residents died ) we are not allowed to go visit, which means we may never see our mothers again. Something we've come to terms with but a little hard on the family.

 

I have been working on the car but due to the lock down some thing cannot be done...i.e the leaking gas tank, the people that have this are in lockdown, the upholsterer is in lockdown and the guy doing the rope assist and travel rug cord is in lockdown so I have to do what I can with what I have at the moment.

 

I decided to fit the horn wiring. I grabbed the wire and the end which I put on it in a previous post. I needed a insulating washer which I found and fitted this to the plastic grommet I had made by a friend on a 3D printer. The wire is then fed through the steering wheel down the streeing shaft and i pops out at the base of the steering box. Checked for length and removed to fit the end contact which I bought a while ago from the restoration supply company. To attach this I drilled small hole in a piece of wood and inserted this into it. I then stuck the soldering iron into the top which heated it up enough to allow me to melt solder into it. Then I could get the exposed wire and push it into the liquid solder. Once cooled I put some heat shrink on it, refed the wire and attached it to the wiring loom connector. Another small but fiddly job done. I'll post some more updates of what I've done as soon as I get time.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Decided to install the first garnish mold which is the one that covers the tor part of the dash. I thought to my self what could be easier ? Grab the mold, sit it in place, do up the screws.....easy as !!!

Nope.....wrong. Started off by having to find the window winder retaining bracket which I hadn't seen for 15 years. Sitting in my box of bits, there she was....finally something that was found easily. Wound the window winder out a bit, put the screws in and worked as it should. Next step the mold. Checked it over and found one of the spacers was missing. I ground down and counter sunk the hole in one I had and using blutac to hold it in place. I also noticed a notched end in each towards the end of each side of the mold and a corresponding hole in the dash. Again using blutac, I was able to hold two bolts in place. This where the fun started. I got the mold to sit in place but the bolts didn't aligh up which pushed against the blutac and pushed the bolts away from the inside of the mold. After three hours of adjusting and moving small amounts at a time I was able to position the garnish mold in its place. The top screws were put in their place using countersunk compatable washers. Underneath the dash I could see the bolt so I was able to put the washer, spring washer and not on but when I went to tighten them up, of course the bolt turned around. So lying with my back on the carpet and my feetup in the air I could just hold the front of the bolt with a pair of plyers and tighten the nut with a ring spanner on small turn at a time, and then reposition the plyers for the next shot. Finally got it to a point where it was tight (1 1/2 hours later ) so decided to crack on and get the other side done. Did that tighten up without a fight ? Nope....just like the previous one . Got them both tightened up and the window winder handle in place. After 5 hours of mucking around I think it was a good result.

 

Cheers

Ian

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I think we would all agree Ian that dashboard looks absolutely perfect. I don’t think it could actually be any better. It’s a Credit to your beautiful work Ian,  well done you should be very proud of it. 

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30 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Thanks mate,

Wish I could move a bit faster and finish it. Hopefully lockdown will be further eased and I can power ahead.

 

Cheers

Ian

Yer our lockdown here has gone beyond ridiculous, I’m not sure what he’s trying to accomplish doing all this but he’s sure sending a lot of people to the wall. We are definitely getting plenty of time on our car though, but it will be nice to actually use them again. I’d loved to see that car in real life one day Ian. What part of Melbourne are you in. I’m in pakenham. 

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2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

I think we would all agree Ian that dashboard looks absolutely perfect. I don’t think it could actually be any better. It’s a Credit to your beautiful work Ian,  well done you should be very proud of it. 

I think that the whole restoration is an absolute dedication of perfectness if there is such a word Beautiful meticulous workmanship 

 

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Finally go to talk to the Upholsterer yesterday and pointed out alignment issues with the Garnish Molds and lining boards so we'll make up templates and have some of them remade. I'm not talking about being out a huge amount, only 1/4" but its enough to see a gap when everything is fitted and I really don't want to see that.

 

Finished off fitting some screws under the dash and while I was fossicking around in my bits and pieces I found the brake and clutch pedal rubbers I've had sitting there for around 15 years. Cleaned them up and fitted them to the pedals. 

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Bit the bullet and though I'd better pull the rear drum and brakes off to replace the cracked banjo fitting. Chocked the rear of the car, got the tyres off and removed everything. You can see the damage the brake fluid has done over time. Glad I found it now rather then when the car is finished. Taken the backing plate to a blaster and then I'll get them repainted. I'm glad I bought a drum puller !....boy they let go with a bang but didn't have too much trouble. Took more time to get the brake springs off.

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It is what it is I'm afraid. I've already taken the backing plates to the blaster ( in the next street where I work ) and I've teed up the painter ( in the same street as I work ). I've cleaned up two newer banjo fittings and I'm waiting on the Stat-o-seal washers from the States to replace the copper washers. A couple of new gaskets and it will be reassembly time.

 

Les - I bought the Dodge pedal rubbers from a guy ( Glenn Seymour ) who use to make them but he's fallen off the grid. Last thing I heard he was living on French Island in Westernport Bay.

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I’ve never seen anything like them .. but I did a lot of old Honda motorcycle repops with “clauses studios” in Hesperia, calif .. foot pedals, gas tank pads etc .. so I’m very familiar with the process .. it’s easy to do .. 

 

your Dodge pedals are really (to me) exceptional .. I would like a pair .. that’s it .. but you might be able to “pedal” a few to your mates for $75 a pair :;))

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35 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

. . . I had to smear a little dishwashing liquid so I could get them around the pedals

 

5 minutes ago, Lescor said:

I always put the rubber parts in boiling for a few minutes . Add grease if need be 

 

Aren’t petroleum products bad for natural rubber? Seems like dishwashing liquid would be better. Though heating them up in hot water does sound like a good idea.

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