Ian_Greenlaw

1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

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Do the seat supports have to be reset by hand so the seat can be lowered If so one would need long arms I think in most cases it would be the driver retrieving the luggage so that is why the suport has a mounting position on either side but only one suport device was fitted to each car Just my illogical theory Cheers Ron

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Hey all,

Fitted the painted grill to the front vent and picked up the painted spare wheel covers. The open part at the bottom of the pieces has two screw holes in each side. Does anyone know what the holes are for or what is missing ?

Cheers

Ian

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post-78906-143142182264_thumb.jpgOur 33 DP has the rubber snubs. Car is sold , so I cant take pictures. I.ll ask the new owner to take pictures. The rubber is still on the covers.

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Thanks Dave,

That make sense to stop vibration.

You must explain how you get the circles and notation onto a photograph. I've tried a few times and given up in disgust.

Cheers

Ian

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Take two....I hope this gets posted this time but I'm getting these Dodgey messages each time I go into a posting on the forum.....hmmmm wait and see.

Anyhow, I've inserted the roof in the opening and the following hopefully will explain how I did it without completely stuffing it up !

When I bought the car there were only 3 timber bows left of which 2 were broken. I spoke the the guy who did my body work and he set about making a new insert for me.

Did an absolutely fantastic job. Once completed I took to the upholsterer and he covered it with a cloth, foam and then the black finishing material. To check I set it in the roof opening and then removed and made a few minor adjustments as one part was sitting a fraction too high.

Ian

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Ok, so now the roof insert fits, I removed it from the car and ran three lines of green ( low stick ) masking tape along both the roof insert and the opening in the body. Once this was done and we ( my brother and I ) were happy with the result I ran three runs of Butyl Mastic ( like liquid Dum Dum ) along the three ridges in the roof opening. This was to give it a chance of having a three layer protection from getting any leaks. Once this was completed we made sure the screw ( metal thread ) holes aligned up. WE put the metalthreads on the holes and hand tightened them until it started to exert some force on them. We started from one side and tightened them until we got around to the opposite side and all screws were tight. There is always one that doesn't want to go in !!!

Ian

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To fill in any gaps that still may exist, I applied another run if Butyl Mastic and flattened it down with a cloth with some Kerosene on it. It was then a continuous job of getting the excess Butyl Mastic off the area. This stuff sticks like poo to a blanket ! blah.

Anywho, once we got the excess removed the masking tape was removed slowly after a hour or so as the skin had started to form. These was a few imperfections that needed attention so a bit more gentle wiping I was able to get that sorted out. When finished I left it for two days and then I had to find something that was softer than a cloth but was still had enough that didn't fall apart. I rembered my daughters use these pads for removing makeup. Armed with a few of these I again put some kerosene on them and very gently wiped any excess away. A bit of the cotton came off but this will clean off once completely dry. I think it came up looking ok and I really dont want to do this again !

Cheers

Ian

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Beautiful job, Ian!

I do have one question - it looks like you wrapped the green tape around the edges of the top insert, although I may be misinterpreting the photo. Once you applied the mastic and let it set up, how did you get the tape off without messing up the mastic? It seems it would be into the slot and removing the tape would tear the mastic. Obviously that didn't happen, so what am I missing?

Edit:

Looking more closely at the photos, maybe you didn't wrap the tape completely around the edge of the insert, but only up to the edge of it. That would explain things. What brand of mastic did you use?

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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Thanks Dave,

That make sense to stop vibration.

You must explain how you get the circles and notation onto a photograph. I've tried a few times and given up in disgust.

Cheers

Ian

Down load (PICASA) I learned how to do that plus another member from the forum guided me along. Sorry for the long response, we are dealing with the Rim fire here.

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Hi guys and thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

The green tape only ran around the rim of both the insert and the opening and not wrapped over the edge. This made for a better line to work to. If I was doing this again I would have put less Mastic on the second time around as the bulk of this had to be removed. When I wiped the excess off I tried to get back to a little of the painted surface along side the masking tape. This way I knew that was where I had to stop wiping. Pulling the tape off required two people. One to pull it off ( almost on an angle back on itself ) so it didn't lift any mastic that was caught up, and the other to hold the tape off the roof coz this stuff gets everywhere.

I used a local brand...Selleys D-Mastic ( pic attached )

I also made a little template for a heat shield for the fuel pump. My fuel pump has 3 "posts" so I gave this to my metal guy and he made it up from stainless. I polished it up and it fitted without adjustment...that has to be a first.

I've also started on the bonnet lacing.

Tip of the day....

IF YOU ARE RESTORING A CAR, FIT THE BONNET LACING TO THE RADIATOR SURROUND BEFORE THE RADIATOR GOES IN AND YOU BOLT EVERYTHING UP. I think I'm becoming a contorsionist !

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks Dave,

That make sense to stop vibration.

You must explain how you get the circles and notation onto a photograph. I've tried a few times and given up in disgust.

Cheers

Ian

open pictures with a separate program such as" paint" then you can do all kinds of add on's....

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You do nice work Ian, I am looking for a seal for mine ( rubber ) also still in the hunt for the vent window weather seal dilemma...............

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Thanks for that.

When you said you are looking for the rubber seal was that for he roof as I may have a source for you.

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Thanks for that.

When you said you are looking for the rubber seal was that for he roof as I may have a source for you.

well mainly the rear vent window seals, the roof I can deal with, I use to make the seals for 1936 dodge roof ( steel insert type) due to the fact there was not one available ( that fit right ) for the 36 Dodge. I sold all of my supply for those cars, I will mock up a profile for the 34 and then contact the rubber company I use to do an extrusion (s)

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well mainly the rear vent window seals, the roof I can deal with, I use to make the seals for 1936 dodge roof ( steel insert type) due to the fact there was not one available ( that fit right ) for the 36 Dodge. I sold all of my supply for those cars, I will mock up a profile for the 34 and then contact the rubber company I use to do an extrusion (s)

Here is a picture of the seal for the 36 notice how it fits the gutter of roof and has enough room to add fabric to the inserts these seal not only sealed well but also made a nice clean finished look to the roof of these cars...the tops could also be painted to match the car body, sold over 100 of these seals over the years.... this is something "Steel rubber and others do not stock, and I still hold the mold rights to.....

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Here is a picture of the seal for the 36 notice how it fits the gutter of roof and has enough room to add fabric to the inserts these seal not only sealed well but also made a nice clean finished look to the roof of these cars...the tops could also be painted to match the car body, sold over 100 of these seals over the years.... this is something "Steel rubber and others do not stock, and I still hold the mold rights to.....

Would you have the size of the insert for the 36? I think I have one of the insert but I don't know what it fits.

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This is what I was looking for.This is a moulding used for the Chrysler brands ( could be for other years too but not sure ). Unfortunately as I didn't pull my car apart and there was not much left of the roof, once I had the roof made this moulding was too big to fit so I had no choice but to use the Butyl Mastic method. This would have provided a cleaner edge.

This is the web address of the supplier and I've tried to take a few shots of the moulding. They still have stock of it

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Ian

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This is what I was looking for.This is a moulding used for the Chrysler brands ( could be for other years too but not sure ). Unfortunately as I didn't pull my car apart and there was not much left of the roof, once I had the roof made this moulding was too big to fit so I had no choice but to use the Butyl Mastic method. This would have provided a cleaner edge.

This is the web address of the supplier and I've tried to take a few shots of the moulding. They still have stock of it

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Ian

no worries Ian, these are the same as the rest of the suppliers carry and they don't fit.....they will tell you they do but I went through 4 different seal when doing my 36 and not one of them worked, there is a big difference in selling parts to sell parts and making sure the parts you sell work, if you know what I mean.....

K" is right one year for the insert one for the coupe and 1 fits the four door , I know there was a guy in Conn. reproducing the tops to fit coupes as for the four door tops I do not know of anyone doing them......

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My 1936 car was an un-molested original when I first got it in 1983. (I am the third owner and know the full owner history). The car's top did not have a gasket that was apparent on the outside. The original application for the steel insert top on the '36 was very much like Ian showed in post #445. It has an inner simple rubber gasket and then the top seam was filled with a flowing sealer. The final effect was that the sealed area was either flat with the top surfaces or actually dipped inward just a bit. The over all idea being that water would flow off the top and not get backed up behind a thicker gasket that was sticking up from the surface area.

So, in other words, I do not think that the gasket style that "knobless" showed is correct for the later insert tops like the '36's steel insert top. That thicker gasket style MAY have been associated with the prior cloth insert tops (1935 and earlier - and also the 1936 7 passenger sedan "Limo") but I have no first hand knowledge of that fact.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Ian).

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--- 1936 Steel Insert Top Sealer. --- 1936 Cloth Insert Top Gasket.

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Edited by 1936 D2
Added photo (see edit history)

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My 1936 car was an un-molested original when I first got it in 1983. (I am the third owner and know the full owner history). The car's top did not have a gasket that was apparent on the outside. The original application for the steel insert top on the '36 was very much like Ian showed in post #445. It has an inner simple rubber gasket and then the top seam was filled with a flowing sealer. The final effect was that the sealed area was either flat with the top surfaces or actually dipped inward just a bit. The over all idea being that water would flow off the top and not get backed up behind a thicker gasket that was sticking up from the surface area.

So, in other words, I do not think that the gasket style that "knobless" showed is correct for the later insert tops like the '36's steel insert top. That thicker gasket style MAY have been associated with the prior cloth insert tops (1935 and earlier - and also the 1936 7 passenger sedan "Limo") but I have no first hand knowledge of that fact.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Ian).

sorry.

I never said it was the correct gasket, in my search for a replacement gasket I was told that the one's that the well known suppliers are selling do not work on these steel insert tops, The gasket That I was having produced fit these inserts and also allowed for fabric to be installed over the insert, (no padding )or just paint the insert, again, never said it was original to these cars,,,I know the original "dum dum" type sealer was used, I know this because I spent some time cleaning it off my 36 when I had it,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]214548[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]214550[/ATTACH]

--- 1936 Steel Insert Top Sealer. --- 1936 Cloth Insert Top Gasket.

j

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Interesting information and it always adds to the knowledge base. I'm just glad people chime in with additional knowledge that adds to everyone doing restoration work.

Thats what I like about this forum, and keep comments and opinions coming.

Cheers

Ian

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It also helps show how some of these design features were used over different model years and partial years in some cases. That raises the overall knowledge base of people reading these Forum pages. It's a good thing!

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Finally I mounted the luggage rack. I did have one issue. One of the threaded holes when I went to put the special bolt in didn't have a thread ! To get around this I bought a slightly longer bolt, made up a few slightly small curved shims and tapped them in on top of the thread, put a washer so it wont come out and this stopped any movement. I'm going to get a few small rubber "U" pieces and glue them in place so two of the support arms won't rattle. Apart from that and using the original emblem I think it came up looking pretty nice. Now I'm working on the bonnet lacing. I've finished one side around the radiator so three more to go.

Cheers

Ian

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