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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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While you have the steel out Ian, maybe a few new splash aprons too....finished the tough one just the easy one left to do, a little filing and fine tuning, some primer and paint them up.....

Here are a few more photos, the hydraulic punch works good to remove alot of material at once......

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Hi Steve,

my word....you do good metal work !!! Hydraulic Punch too......I have a hacksaw, tin snips and a Dremel.....not quite the same.... I'm lucky as my splash aprons are in excellent condition, powder coated and ready to go.

Ill post a few pics of my handy metal work when I'm finished, that way I can embarrass my self even more ! ha

Ian

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Finished my plate for the floor. What I did was I used this old no standing sign. Marked the pattern I needed based on Steve's photo ( thanks Steve ). To get the arc approximate I traced around a washer drilled the holes and wacked it in the vice and then bent to the correct angle. A coat of etch primer and the Gloss Black it came up looking ok. You'll probably agree best use of a no standing sign !!! Also cleaned up a couple of the trim mounting timbers and was able to put one in as the other window isn't fitted yet.

Cheers

Ian

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Finished my plate for the floor. What I did was I used this old no standing sign. Marked the pattern I needed based on Steve's photo ( thanks Steve ). To get the arc approximate I traced around a washer drilled the holes and wacked it in the vice and then bent to the correct angle. A coat of etch primer and the Gloss Black it came up looking ok. You'll probably agree best use of a no standing sign !!! Also cleaned up a couple of the trim mounting timbers and was able to put one in as the other window isn't fitted yet.

Cheers

Ian

Good job,Ian

Also any more pictures of the rear wood (timbers) I can't remember removing these on mine, so maybe I can get an idea of size and shape from your photos,

on a lighter note: does this mean if I travel through an area missing street signs, should I take it this is most likley an area where alot of old car restorer's live. haha....

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You are not the only one to use street signs .. I saw a documentary that included a Ferrari made just after the war had ended ... on the inside of the aluminium panel was a large road sign ... due to the shortage of material, the workers would steal them at night ... at least it was not that one on your garage that said "1934 Dodge Parking Only "

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It looks to fit the Starter area as a block off?? still checking around, a few more plates...

Note: in picture, where it says goes under floor board, this is incorrect this pc goes over floor board, sorry about mix up.

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Hey all,

Made up two little brackets to hold the parking light in place which sits between the original bracket for the parking light. Fitted first time ( now theres a first ) and put the lights and trim rings back in place.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Had a look for those timbers that extend and mine are non existent. Looks like I'll have to make those now.....keep finding bits for me...I'm enjoying this !!

Finished the other bonnet side with the vents. Attached the trim, hold down clamps and handle so that's both sides now done. Finished wiring and fitted the dipswitch, earth for the dome light, fitted the handbrake cover plate in position and installed two grommets and a stainless steel sleeve for the rear bumper irons so no pressure will be put on the body when the irons are installed. Cleaned up inside the car ( finally ) as it was becoming a dogs breakfast in there ! Took a shot from the rear looking inside and compared it with an old one plus a few other shots.

Cheers

Ian

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Had a great night last night with the clubs Garage Crawl to check your progress... I am sure all in attendance enjoyed the night... I must say that the 35km drive home at 11:00pm in pouring rain on the freeway in an 80 year old Dodge was not the best drive I have had ... but a great night

Edited by Ken_Lincoln (see edit history)
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Hi Ian

If you still have your side aprons off the car can you shoot me a picture of what they look like, close up of front section, mine mine need a little but don't know how much and the shape thats missing

Thanks

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Finished the glove box door after getting that tricky little trim in place. I had a knob which looked the part but had to tap a new tread in it. I'll fit it later on once I've finished the wiring etc..

Also remade two lower sections of wood that were missing and reattached two assist strap blocks. I bought two new assist strap holders a long time ago so I found those too.

A guy at work put me onto this Fibre Pen which I've used to clean hard to get areas that need a good contact like inside the light fittings and little brass screws. You just rub it over the area and comes up new in a few seconds. Just thought I'd share that incase anyone is nterested.

Cheers

Ian

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What do your assist straps look like Ian? I have been grappling with how to make a pair for my DC Dodge (photo below).

They consist of a 4-core rope, each core being a set of fibres wrapped in a thread, same as large modern curtain tassels (of which I have only found 3-core). Inside the rope to add stiffness is a piece of spring like what net curtains are threaded onto. The rope is attached to the bracket by a loop of strong canvas or something wired to the rope with two high-tensile wire loops. The wire is hidden in a wrapping of thread, which is itself hidden inside a nice knitted or crocheted or ? strip. The bottom is a pom-pom held on with a wire loop around its centre, itself wired to the rope with two wire loops. These are hidden by a wooden ferule, which is hidden by braiding, sort of a larger version of what's on the wiring loom. I have been playing with the knitted or crocheted or ? strips; they must be machine done, but how? I can see how the stitches work but not how to do them with the right tension. Maybe some sort of maradai? They seem to require 13 threads to advance along the length uniformly. They are built the same as Senior Six but with different attachment. Maybe yours are built like this?post-88545-143142586561_thumb.jpg

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Sorry mine were non existent.....probably part of the 5% that wasn't complete when I bought the car.

This is a few shots of an original 34 one of the guys in the states has.

I've attached a few pics of what I have. One car I'd say is original and has the same type of strap. The others has a folded strap.

The closest thing I've seen is those dividing barriers that have a rope between two bollards but still a long way away from the original type.

Have a look at the cord on the back of the seat too. I've seen these on ebay a few times, maybe a contact there too !

I'll let you know if I find anything or further information.

Ian

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That is very similar. The ferule at the pom-pom looks to have been re-wrapped and has lost its fancy cover. The DC has a bar as the robe rail, standing out from the seat. It looks to be the same rope tho. I was wondering if I could find out who makes the tassel rope and buy some of the single cord they use and make my own rope - I have made the kit. Or even unwinding a tassel and adding a cord to make 4.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey all,

After many hours finally got the door handles, escutcheon, retainer washer, spring and retainer set up properly for all 4 door handles.

Took a while as a few escutcheons had worn quite a bit so had to pick the best of them and trail and error. Another job off the list.

Took the bumper bar irons to my body guy and after a while we both decided that at one point the car had a decent rear end hit and they have to be heated and repositioned to the correct angle. If I mounted them now the bumper bar would be 3" higher than where it should be.

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

Been a bit distracted lately as my wife wanted a little garden shed so I built a timber frame for the base and bought a kit shed. All togother and another job off the list.

Picked up the rear bumper bar and irons from my body guy. He said they needed two full days work to get them to a reasonable condition and get the bents out of the bumper bar. I think she'd had a few wacks in the rear. Anyhow to temporarily set them up I put a bolt through the hole with a high tensile washer to give it support. Then I put the stainless steel sleeve with an end that had been TIG welded on. The sat the bumper iron on followed by the remade retainer and then I tightened it up. Came up looking reasonably good. I need to now check measurements and make sure it is level etc..

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

Got holes in Bumper irons filled and a slight adjustment then both of them and the retainers off to the powdercoater. also took the Bumper bar to the plater and that should take about 3 weeks. Installed the new bolts inside the spare wheel holders which attach to the support bracket. Also Knobless ( Steve ) sent me a pic of a moulded floor plate I was missing. Worked out some dimensions from his picture, attacked another "Trespassers Prosecuted" sign and cut out a template. Finished and sprayed black and fitted first go.

Cheers

Ian

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Well still progressing.....Picked up the Rear Bumper Bar Irons and retainers from the powdercoater, I think they came up a treat.

Received the 9/16 Stainless dome nuts from my friends at the Restoration Supply Company.....very efficient business they run.

Also Tony who also has a 34 came over the other night and helped me put the rear window in. I must say, getting a few things on the car does spur you along.

I'm off tomorrow to find some Bailey Channel.

Out of interest, with the doors ....do they have a door pull of some description, or was it that you just pulled on the inside handle ?

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks again to Ian' for window channel, it was the oposite channel but with a little thought it can be used as long as you remember window rollers have to be able to work ( shape of channel ) only allows one way install, picture below...

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thermostat easy fix, grind cross by pass bar enough for regular 50's thermo to seat,,,bought one off flebay for 34 dodge to tall to work, so improv.... notice the bolt in vise to aid in holding the housing , makes thing just a little easier.....

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Thanks again to Ian' for window channel, it was the oposite channel but with a little thought it can be used as long as you remember window rollers have to be able to work ( shape of channel ) only allows one way install, picture below...

Here is a picture of why roller will only work on one side of the window channel notice shape of channel, and roller location, oposite side of channel is more or less straight

Also "floating power" logo on engine bracket..found.

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Edited by knobless (see edit history)
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hmmmm, I'll have to have a look at the window channel on mine.

The floating power logo on the engine bracket is interesting. My bracket has a little plate that has floating power on it. But I do have another bracket that it too has it stamped on it. I'll post a pic later to show what I mean.

Ian

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Steve,

Here are a few shots of the engine bracket. I actually have 3 of them. One on the car and two spares. The one on the car has the little "plaque" and the other two are stamped on it. Don't know if this was an export thing but it had the holes drilled for it.

The other photo is of my "spares" that came with the car....if you need something, just ask and I'll have a look.

Cheers

Ian

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Ian I'm back on forum it's been a while ! And I'm pretty much sorted the 2 gear jumping out when on de-cell it was end play on main shaft ,while it's apart trying to find another synchro ring or assembly it's a T86 with R6 overdrive.

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Steve,

Here are a few shots of the engine bracket. I actually have 3 of them. One on the car and two spares. The one on the car has the little "plaque" and the other two are stamped on it. Don't know if this was an export thing but it had the holes drilled for it.

The other photo is of my "spares" that came with the car....if you need something, just ask and I'll have a look.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

Finally got around to swapping window channel, re-cut notches and re-drill pin to line up with locking arm, everything works great and the roller fits as it should and works too, thanks again for the channel, let me know if you need anything.....

Still fiddeling with aprons ,, the more I look at the ones I have they are really not that bad after cleaning up, I may just repair them, less work anywhoo...

Steve

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Hi guys,

Window channel looks good, glad I could help. glad to see your lever etc are pitted too.........and I thought it was just mine !!!. I'm still getting my too front frames back to some reasonable order. Mine were very pitted around the corners. also waiting on the chroming guy to finish my rear bumper, everything else is done so as soon as that arrives I can fit it. My window glass guy came over the other day and he's tweeting the rear window rubber he made for me, and again once done I can fit into the car. I've started with a bailey channel I bought and hopefully I'll get one fitted this weekend among a million other jobs I have to do. I'll post some pics when done.

Tony, glad to see your alive.......I keep looking at the rear window.....what a fit !!

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Allrighty then,

Still plodding along.

I'm tackling the windows in the rear door at the moment. I've had the glass made and I removed the original glass from one of the channels and I couldn't believe the amount of much I got from it.

Cleaned up and painted the channel as well as both window winders and installed both window winders after applying some new grease. Also bent the bailey channel to suit. Its one thing getting the glass in but then to get the Bailey Channel in, in one piece is proving to be a bit of a task. Looks good once its in but still having trouble getting it in when the glass is already in there. Must be a trick to it.

I think my rear bumper will be ready Thursday so going over to pick it up.

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Went and picked up my rear bumper from the platers yesterday. Also my new bumper bar bolts had sitting here a while so buffed them up. Mounted the irons in place then for once everything bolted according to plan ! I also picked up the two rear tail light housings that he double copper dipped so now I can start working on these as well. I also anchored the rear window and using black polyeurathane I put some in the channel and aligned it up. I did cut about 1/4" off each end of the channel so it won't catch on the bailey channel when installed. Overall not a bad days work !

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

A few more small steps done.

My wife sewed the covers that go over the door lock arms, I guess they were to stop vibration rattles or if they ever touched the glass wouldn't rattle. Also cleaned out the second rear door channel, primed and painted. Its now mounted on the glass with polyeurathane and drying. Did a bit more work on the taillights but still have a long way to go. With the help of my brother we finally got the Bailey Channel in the rear door with the glass in. Now all I have to do if fix it in place then start on the other side.

Cheers

Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry guys its been a while since I posted and have been working furiously on the car trying to get it finished but looks like the finances took a hit and it will hopefully be next year.

The next phase was to hand strip the body panels of all paint. It was suggested I do the outside but hand which is a lot gentler, but the undersides I should get them bead blasted. So commenced the entire body of painting with paint stripper and using a "strip and clean" disc on a polishing machine I was able to do a reasonable job. I used a wire wheel in a drill to get into the hard and tricky areas. One interesting this was that after nearly 80 years, not one spec of rust in the doors. The other problem I had was that the rear of the car was belted in as through whoever drove it last regularly reversed into everything they could find. This would have to be replaced once at the body shop. I actually enjoyed the stripping as you could see the weld seams and the car actually became to look a consistent colour ( polished steel ). I then coated the bare steel with WD40 to prevent rusting. I did uncover some rust areas in the lower cowl and wheel arches but nothing major at this point.

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As little kid in New Zealand I remember seeing people reversng Prewar cars by leaning out the drivers door,hanging onto the wheel and moving backwards,I haven't seen anyone use that technique for decades .On early American cars it was the only to see behind you because of the small back window. Looking at that damage, someone has been looking out the back by peering out the drivers window ....and hit something on the passenger side.

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