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1939 vacuum line, fuel line info needed


39BuickEight

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Hi everyone. We are almost ready to crank the engine, but I need to make up the fuel line that runs from the pump to the carb, and the vacuum line that runs from the distributor to the carb. I have found some photos that I can add to mine to see exactly how they are routed (I think anyway), but I am hoping someone can advise me on what size/type of line to use, or any other tricks or anything you think I should know.

Once this is done, I just need to source a "beater" 6v battery to use during testing and whatnot. I don't want to fill my pretty new 6v until I am ready to actually drive the car and keep the battery maintained well, which will still be some time. It would not be a good idea to use a 12v battery for testing, correct? Nothing is hooked up at all, just the starter and engine wiring/electrical. The guy at the starter shop told me the starter would be fine to run on 12v, but then someone else told me that was incorrect.

edit........we have the line from the pump to the carb done, but I still need help sourcing the tubing and connectors for the vacuum line (it was cut and we only have one connector and part of the line).

I also need photos of how the main fuel line is routed from the tank to the pump, that line was hacked up on my car too.

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Guest Grant Magrath

I'd love to help Billy, but we've got a 47 engine in the coupe.

And you've been given some good advice on the battery voltage. I have started the 38 with a 12v, but it's not ideal!

Once your fuel line is sorted and you're confident your timing is set, and the carb is good, dribble some fuel down the carb, put the air cleaner back on, and off you go!

Are you going to pull the distributor and wind the oil pump over with an old distributor shaft in a drill first? That's what I did with the Stingray to bring the pressure up.

Cheers

Grant

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Hi, Billy,

As you probably know, the original fuel line routing on a 39 was straight up from the pump on the passenger side, over to the driver side just on top and just in front of the valve cover, then back to behind the carb (I assume it's a Stromberg) with a split of a smaller line to the idle jets. This puts a good part of the line in the "heat soak zone" just above the exhaust manifold. If you are not that interested in originality, you might want to consider routing the fuel line back on the passenger side to the firewall, coming across behind the valve cover, then straight into the carb. That will avoid the heat soak zone. I didn't do that myself because I have an original engine and set-up, but you might want to consider it. Other members have posted their own ideas before when dealing with the overheating and vapor lock issues, so their input would be valuable as well.

The main fuel line is 5/16" OD.

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I have edited my original post...we have the line from the pump to the carb done, but I still need help sourcing the tubing and connectors for the vacuum line (it was cut and we only have one connector and part of the line)

I also need photos of how the main fuel line is routed from the tank to the pump, that line was hacked up on my car too.

Thanks!

here she is right now:

9-30-12-2-1.jpg

9-30-12-3.jpg

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Billy,

F Y I just be careful regarding the vacuum line. It does not use the standard " brass ferrel" compression ring at either end. The nut actually compresses down upon the tube as you tighten it in.

Re the fuel line. My '40 runs from the tank over to the pass side and outside the frame rail for most of the way, to under the front fender, where it goes thru a hole to the pump.

I routed the line from the pump straight up to just under the cold air duct, then back to just under the coil, and over the rocker box to the carb. I made a bracket using the rear valve cover nut to hold the line and covered the whole line with 1/2" heater hose from the carb clear down to the pump. It is visible in my album's engine picture.

Up here @ 8500 ft, and having to burn corn-gas, vapor lock is a way of life, and we have to keep our gas as cold as possible.

Best Regards,

Mike in Colorado

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Billy,

F Y I just be careful regarding the vacuum line. It does not use the standard " brass ferrel" compression ring at either end. The nut actually compresses down upon the tube as you tighten it in.

Re the fuel line. My '40 runs from the tank over to the pass side and outside the frame rail for most of the way, to under the front fender, where it goes thru a hole to the pump.

I routed the line from the pump straight up to just under the cold air duct, then back to just under the coil, and over the rocker box to the carb. I made a bracket using the rear valve cover nut to hold the line and covered the whole line with 1/2" heater hose from the carb clear down to the pump. It is visible in my album's engine picture.

Up here @ 8500 ft, and having to burn corn-gas, vapor lock is a way of life, and we have to keep our gas as cold as possible.

Best Regards,

Mike in Colorado

Thanks Mike. Haven't had any luck yet with the vaccum line today.

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Billy,

No, I did not have to secure a new vacuum line, but I did notice the special brass end fittings, both at the carb and distributor were very tapered on their ends, and actually swage down on the tube as you tighten them into the hole. It took a bit of work to free them up again and I lubed them real good before screwing them back in. As the thread you mentioned above, I found the correct vacuum advance unit on e-bay and it was listed for a Pontiac. My old unit had a crumbled diaphram.

She drives much better w/ the vacuum advance working.

Mike in Colorado

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Hi Billy,

Sorry if you've already answered this elsewhere - but, I will pay you cash money :) for a photo record of your tear-down and re-assembly process. (I hope to copy you some day with my '39.) If you can burn your photos to a CD or thumb drive I'll mail you a check for your trouble.

Thanks,

Kevin

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Kevin, here are a few links for you, the first is my restoration thread, the others are my photobucket albums.

http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1939-buick-special-restoration-273123.html

39 Buick pictures by wellinghurst - Photobucket

antique cars pictures by wellinghurst - Photobucket

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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  • 3 years later...

There are two mounts with clips screwed to the body of the distributor. The clips hold down the cap. I badly need one of those (mount and clip). Destroyed one trying to replace the push rod cover, forgetting it was in the way. Messed up the gasket in the process but have a new one the way.

 

My e-mail. by the way is john@jjmurray.us if you want to go direct. Thanks for checking.

 

Regards, John

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