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keiser31

Anyone purchase a new wiring harness for a 1931 DB?

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Had another under the dash fire yesterday in my coupe. Drove it yesterday to the diner and back....all went well. Later went to put the car in the garage and the accelerator spring got hung up on the choke cable and it revved really high. I shut it off immediately, but all of a sudden smoke arose from under the dashboard. I disconnected the battery. That big red wire under the dash that goes to the ammeter is really big now....and kinda toasty looking. Looks like I gotta save up for a call to "Y N Z's" or "Rhode Island Wiring". Please PM me with your experiences with either place. Thanks. John

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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Hi John,

When I rewired my 31 dh coupe. I used RI Wiring.

Drove over there with my old harness, but they really didn't need it, as they have "master" for my car.

Took about 2-3 weeks.

Been in the car for 5 years now with no problems. Easy instructions to follow when installing.When there was a conflict of their instructions and my hand made one, theirs was correct.

If I remember, there's two harness's one for the headlights and one for the rest of the car. I hope I remembered that correctly but a phone call to them will be a good bet.good Luck

What I should have done is spend the xtra bucks to get the wiring for signal lights. I broke my leg from kicking myself in my butt.

Good Luck,

Joe C.

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My one and only wiring loom purchase for my 1925 was a good experience with RI. It was well made and matched the original.

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I purchased a harness from Rhoade Island and it's very nice,easy to trace and it came with a schematic. One wire was short but they sent me everything I needed for free.Of course,any special fittings you have to supply and install yourself unless you send them in first!

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If all you need is the cable to the ameter, I believe 8 gauge (American) cable is what you need.

Ray.

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I did RI and it fit like a glove. I had them put in the turn signals as well and again works great. that is all on my 28 victory 6 sedan.

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Some nice photos. A good view of where the "magic smoke" escaped!

REALLY speaks highly for battery cut-off switches! Love 'em!

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Some nice photos. A good view of where the "magic smoke" escaped!

REALLY speaks highly for battery cut-off switches! Love 'em!

I actually bought one of those, but have not installed it, yet. Been very busy on a bathroom remodel. Also working on THAT electrical system which I hate.

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If you're redoing the floor, go tile and put in a heated floor. It's so great to wake up to warm tiles!

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For future reference to electrical wiring....do NOT let your wires lay across the oil line under the dashboard and be certain that all of the nuts on the wires to the gauges are tight. If not it causes the above problems in the posted photos.

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For future reference to electrical wiring....do NOT let your wires lay across the oil line under the dashboard and be certain that all of the nuts on the wires to the gauges are tight. If not it causes the above problems in the posted photos.

I feel an exploratory trip under my dash coming up. I am pretty sure I have all my connections tight with star type "shake proof" lock washers. But I can't recall how the wires are run with respect to the oil pressure gauge line nor the temperature gauge capillary tubing.

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Here's a comment. I think John has the right idea. An OEM style constructed wiring harness IS the way to go. They are designed to be placed in the correct locations as considered by the original vehicle engineers. They are currently made with the modern high temperature insulation but ALSO covered in the enameled braided covering that is color coded to match the original wiring diagrams. The wires are loomed in another protective enameled braid to group them appropriately and help route them to the respective correct locations. These routes cover the safest ways to get from point "A" to "B" without interference from mechanical moving items, sharp edges or hot locations. So, why re-engineer something when "the wheel has already been made"? Buy a full wiring harness from a trusted supplier and have something that looks nice and is correct for all those looking at the car in the future! It is a "win - win".

John: Mine is a RI. It fit perfectly and have not had a stitch of a problem with it since install in 1995. I even had turn signal wiring and fog lamp wiring added to the loom at time of manufacture. You will love it!

(BTW: Welcome back "Mudgy"!) :)

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)

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Here's a comment. I think John has the right idea. An OEM style constructed wiring harness IS the way to go. They are designed to be placed in the correct locations as considered by the original vehicle engineers. They are currently made with the modern high temperature insulation but ALSO covered in the enameled braided covering that is color coded to match the original wiring diagrams. The wires are loomed in another protective enameled braid to group them appropriately and help route them to the respective correct locations. These routes cover the safest ways to get from point "A" to "B" without interference from mechanical moving items, sharp edges or hot locations. So, why re-engineer something when "the wheel has already been made"? Buy a full wiring harness from a trusted supplier and have something that looks nice and is correct for all those looking at the car in the future! It is a "win - win".

John: Mine is a RI. It fit perfectly and have not had a stitch of a problem with it since install in 1995. I even had turn signal wiring and fog lamp wiring added to the loom at time of manufacture. You will love it!

(BTW: Welcome back "Mudgy"!) :)

Thanks. I will have to save up some bottle deposit money or something like that in order to get the cash for the R.I. harness. Others were way more expensive. Thanks again all for the replies. John

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