Guest Pletch Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and my 1956 Buick Century 4 door hard top. I've wanted one of these since my high school days in the early 80's.The brakes on the car were completely dried out so I rebuild all 4 wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder and booster. Everything went well with the hydraulic system but the booster is too sensitive. If you barely touch it the pedal will begin to apply the brakes and you need to lift it up to release the brakes. If you dont release it will come up slowly. When I disconnect the vacuum to the booster the brake pedal works normally (it needs more pressure without assistance though). I know there is an adjustment at the pedal pivot and it makes no difference how I adjust it. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 If you have had the master cylinder and booster rebuilt by a brake rebuilding shop,why don`t go back to the shop and let them fix it.I have been looking for a complet booster kit a long time but can`t find it without left the booster to a rebuilding shop.I think there are some very thin shims inside the booster that needs to be added or removed,and after that the booster needs to be tested with vacuum before reassambling. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pletch Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Thank you Leif,The only problem is I rebuild the booster and hydraulic system. I left the shims in the same order, I'm hoping I wont have to play with this adjustment. I think it has to do with the rod that goes from the brake pedal to the booster but I cant find information on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I helped a friend a months ago with his booster(56 Roadmaster),he had problem becuse it was a "brif-air" sound when he started the car,and the pedal seemed to be similar to yours.We removed the tubes on top of the booster and put a hose 1 yard long so he could blow or suck,and he could do that ,so we tested on my 56 Roadmaster and it wasn`t possible to blow or suck.We reassambled the booster and put more schims on it and after a some tests it worked,no blow or suck.Where is`t possible to bay a complet restoring kit for the 1956 booster,I haven`t found any on internet. Leif in Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pletch Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 yes, I had a complete rebuild kit from Kantor. That's why I'm puzzled why it's acting this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Straight eight Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Have you tried calling Kantor on the phone, and ask them if they experienced anything like your problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Pletch Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I believe I have this one figured out also. There is a small spring inside the rod that actuates the booster, I don't think it had enough tension so I stretched it slightly so the rod would extend fully when it is release.So far it works really well on my bench, I hope to have it installed this weekend for a true test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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